Can your surfing improve after years of surfing?

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,768
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West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
Take a 50 year old guy in decent shape with - no gut - put him in an uncrowded predictable wave like Lowers for a few weeks.

He'll be twice as good by the end of those two weeks.
I was always amazed at how much my teenaged boys surfing would improve after 8 to 10 days of surfing Lowers every day. Between the wave itself and surfing with the local groms that had the place dialed.
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,146
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PNW
I surf a lot, what's interesting is I probably surf my best after not surfing for 2 weeks.

I'm not disagreeing with you btw, I'm just not sure why that is.
i've noticed this sometimes. i think my tendency is to overdo it when there is consistent waves. i think i don't always realized how worn out i am and then when i take a week or two off i come back to surfing more energized.

it was the same for me when i skated. i didn't take breaks to let my body repair often enough but when i did i usually came back feeling and skating better than ever.
 

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,011
3,813
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The 10k rule is about deliberate practice and not just repetition. With repetition you could be reinforcing bad habits and just doing what feels good rather than actually improving.
10k hours of practicing wrong, and you've mastered how to do something wrong :LOL:
It is key that you be able to honestly evaluate yourself and identify where you need to improve. "I'm not flexible/endurant/strong/brave/familiar/comfortable /knowledgeable enough to surf like i want to, here is how I change that"

I surf a lot, what's interesting is I probably surf my best after not surfing for 2 weeks.

I'm not disagreeing with you btw, I'm just not sure why that is.
Always felt that way about hockey. I compared it to needing to turn the computer off occasionally to get the best performance out of it by clearing the RAM. Let your mind go back to the hard drive. (or wherever the other bits go, I don't remember)
 
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santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,015
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valley purgatory
I was always amazed at how much my teenaged boys surfing would improve after 8 to 10 days of surfing Lowers every day. Between the wave itself and surfing with the local groms that had the place dialed.
another good one, surf with people who are better than you. A key word there “with“ not against, they will tell things you don’t notice and make you surf better.

Everyone on my boat trip ripped and it made my trip 200 times better. Getting inspired and pushed. Cmon sit deeper you pussy is a powerful motivational tool.
 

estreet

Miki Dora status
Feb 19, 2021
5,066
4,388
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Southern Cali
10k hours of practicing wrong, and you've mastered how to do something wrong :LOL:
It is key that you be able to honestly evaluate yourself and identify where you need to improve. "I'm not flexible/endurant/strong/brave/familiar/comfortable /knowledgeable enough to surf like i want to, here is how I change that"
Better to have an expert do that of course but for non-pros like most of us we can identify weak areas and find tips on how to work on them. According to deliberate practice it's also best to work on one aspect at a time, like a bottom turn or particular maneuver. If you don't have a tip you can just try doing it a little different and see if it works better and then build from there. Lately I've been concentrating on making sure that I'm compressing enough in bottom turns, for instance, and have noticed a increase in power. Must have been getting sloppy.
 

rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,831
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54
This. The crowds have broken my spirit unfortunately. Just cant deal with them, which in turn keeps me out of the water more than Id like. When I finally cant stand it anymore I'll go for a surf and Im an absolute kook now at 50. Quite depressing actually. Skating the bowls around my area has kept the stoke up for me much more than surfing the past few years.
This until recently when cement caught up to me even completely padded and carved the same lines over and over at the bowl. I think I find freshness in surfing different boards and this seems to over come the advancement part or getting better at age. Lately been huge kick surfin' twins and feel like 51 year old grom. Also mentioned already but I spend more time staying in shape then actual surfing and mix weight training, boxing, cardio, core, stretching and little yoga to surf another day. My ultimate plan is early retirement to warm tropical surf where I can trunk it and sweat off calories:)
 

SlicedFeet

Miki Dora status
Dec 17, 2004
4,751
989
113
Swarm Diego
It’s all about style...but does that really change?

I can pick out friends I’ve surfed with for years by just from their silhouette.

Style really doesn’t change, it’s your body dynamics.

I cringe whenever I see a pic of me though. Then I can’t believe how fat I got for a big stretch of time. Booze and Burritos are a vicious cycle.

We are at a time where surfboard shapes/shapers are more open minded to all walks.
 

Waterlogged05

Michael Peterson status
May 14, 2005
1,927
1,822
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Im still just at 30 but the desk job is messing w my hips
Pop ups stiff, once im riding down the line it's all the same.

I've noticed a big difference in who parties and who doesn't.
And not the drink once a week people but the drinking all the time people.
also agree w the doing other sports to keep up.
Been skating again recently but keeping it tame because it helps balance and legs but also falling can easily take you out of commission.
 

Waterlogged05

Michael Peterson status
May 14, 2005
1,927
1,822
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that quote about one good turn is so true. I had a dog day a few weeks back but I had one snap that brought back all my energy. Sometimes it's hard to keep giving it 100 percent when the stock level is dropping
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,158
12,149
113
I’m lmao @ two weeks of uncrowded lowers. Sorry ladies. Two weeks of in season uncrowded Nexpa would pick up one’s game, Salina Cruz for the reggies.

Dr. Ogro prescribes warm water southerly facing river mouths 300 days a year. Throw in some beachies. Rinse and repeat. Or what Paddy the Mick is doing.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,004
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The Bar
I’m lmao @ two weeks of uncrowded lowers. Sorry ladies. Two weeks of in season uncrowded Nexpa would pick up one’s game, Salina Cruz for the reggies.

Dr. Ogro prescribes warm water southerly facing river mouths 300 days a year. Throw in some beachies. Rinse and repeat. Or what Paddy the Mick is doing.
That does sound rather nice!
 

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,015
10,090
113
valley purgatory
I’m lmao @ two weeks of uncrowded lowers. Sorry ladies. Two weeks of in season uncrowded Nexpa would pick up one’s game, Salina Cruz for the reggies.

Dr. Ogro prescribes warm water southerly facing river mouths 300 days a year. Throw in some beachies. Rinse and repeat. Or what Paddy the Mick is doing.
I need a mexi trip :)
 
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hackeysaky

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2002
4,443
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NJ
We recently had some beach replenishment performed on local beaches concurrent with a winter that seemed to be a non-stop swell generator. Created, temporarily, pointbreak-like conditions with dredging barrels at lower tides and loooong rippable walls at higher tides. Surfed my brains out a few times a week, sometimes twice a day, up the block and at 42 years old I felt like I was surfing as well as I was when a decade or two younger. Makes me wonder what I could be capable of given a consistent supply of time and surf.
That said, now at 44, I'm starting to suffer from some age-related, wear-and-tear-style ailments (hip, shoulders, etc.) that make me recognize there is certainly a limit to the aforementioned philosophy.