Can we talk about HAWAIIAN BIG WAVE SURFERS?

[Waiehu]

"but I always viewed it as a whole separate country on Oahu"
That has to be one of the most accurate descriptions of the Westside of Oahu I have ever heard. The times I have surfed that area has only been by invitation and "escorted" by appropriate people (granted, that was some time ago, but I do not think things have changed much over the years).

 

[racer1]

Things have changed. Lots of young women go to the beaches on the West Side for those sunset Instagram photos. That did not happen 10 years ago and before.

 

[VonMeister]

When I took Hawaiian studies in high school the teacher taught us that Hawaiians were treated like the Native Americans. A lot of the population was forced out of the desired living and resource rich areas to the outskirts and to usually dry, desert-like places. Oahu’s Makaha on the Westside and Waimanalo.on the Eastside. The tips of the island, among other places. This class was a long time ago so I probably got it wrong but Hawaiians were never afforded the same rights as Native Americans, hence no casinos here.

Oahu’s Westside has great waves but I always viewed it as a whole separate country on Oahu. Like an Indian reservation. I usually don’t surf that side unless I’m invited or going to meet up with someone from there.

No matter your political views or interpretation of history Hawaiians have had a lot taken from them. If you’re not Hawaiian tread lightly in Waimanalo and on the Westside.

Well shootz. Just a few posts ago we heard mundus from New Jersey's story about how he paddled out on a good day at Makaha and the boys, who are now his uncles were good with it and they all had a good time and shared waves together.

 

[surfysurfy1476]

These kinds of threads always sends up a red flag for me. A lot of them turn into Hawaii and Hawaiian bashing.

Heres a link to the Eddie invitees.

Invitees announced for 2019 The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational

The most prestigious big wave surfing competition on the planet will feature 32 invitees and 18 alternates, including nine female riders.

www.google.com

There’s a few invited that have Hawaiian blood.

That was not my intention and I dont want to see this thread go that way. I am genuinely interested in why theres a lack of hawaiian blood in the lineup at Peahi. It looks like the main reason is that theres hardly any Hawaiians left on Maui and the ones on Oahu cant be bothered to make the trip?

 

[teeroi]

Well shootz. Just a few posts ago we heard mundus from New Jersey's story about how he paddled out on a good day at Makaha and the boys, who are now his uncles were good with it and they all had a good time and shared waves together.

I live here. If I surf out there and inadvertently offend someone it’ll probably come back to bite me.

 

[bluemarlin04]

That was not my intention and I dont want to see this thread go that way. I am genuinely interested in why theres a lack of hawaiian blood in the lineup at Peahi. It looks like the main reason is that theres hardly any Hawaiians left on Maui and the ones on Oahu cant be bothered to make the trip?

It’s cause they’re working and surfing Waimea has been commercialized so all the team riders get priority.

There were tons of Hawaii dudes charging Waimea for years who got snobbed once quik bought in

 

[mundus]

Well shootz. Just a few posts ago we heard mundus from New Jersey's story about how he paddled out on a good day at Makaha and the boys, who are now his uncles were good with it and they all had a good time and shared waves together.

Sorry you had a bad time there, it was 20 years ago for me. Never said I was boys with anybody, just liked watching them surf.

 

[Watervalley]

Westside is fine with locals and parking lots , the most idiotic locals are White guys , I don't care if its the Basque Country or California they have the Crown period .

i talked in Tracks parking lot with a power local 320 lbs each about fishing with flashers lures etc for about an hour , differences on bites via cold water at home and there , then he tells me there closing Mai Tais at the Ala Moana and opening an Olive Garden , theres the Apocalypse again.

 

[stringcheese]

Oahu’s Westside has great waves but I always viewed it as a whole separate country on Oahu. Like an Indian reservation.

So you're saying it's 99% Mexican people?

 

[VonMeister]

Sorry you had a bad time there, it was 20 years ago for me. Never said I was boys with anybody, just liked watching them surf.

I surfed there plenty. Plenty enough to know your story never happened. Like Teeroi said, invite only. 20 years ago you sit in your car there you can hear the little gravel rocks pinging off it if you stay too long. 20 years ago on a solid day the lifeguard would have sent you packing before you got your toes wet for your own safety. Maybe you hired Kimo Leong as a tour guide? I can't see it happening any other way.

 

[sponge]

I surfed there plenty. Plenty enough to know your story never happened. Like Teeroi said, invite only. 20 years ago you sit in your car there you can hear the little gravel rocks pinging off it if you stay too long. 20 years ago on a solid day the lifeguard would have sent you packing before you got your toes wet for your own safety. Maybe you hired Kimo Leong as a tour guide? I can't see it happening any other way.

Sorry but times have changed. Word is out. At a spot where I was afraid to bring my camera out in the early 90s, now is like Waikiki. I counted over 70 people recently on the beach waiting for cetaceans. Nowadays gotta watch over them when they inevitably get in trouble in the surf.

 

[VonMeister]

Sorry but times have changed. Word is out. At a spot where I was afraid to bring my camera out in the early 90s, now is like Waikiki. I counted over 70 people recently on the beach waiting for cetaceans. Nowadays gotta watch over them when they inevitably get in trouble in the surf.

Right, but 20 years ago at Makaha......

 

[mundus]

I surfed there plenty. Plenty enough to know your story never happened. Like Teeroi said, invite only. 20 years ago you sit in your car there you can hear the little gravel rocks pinging off it if you stay too long. 20 years ago on a solid day the lifeguard would have sent you packing before you got your toes wet for your own safety. Maybe you hired Kimo Leong as a tour guide? I can't see it happening any other way.

Believe what you want, but get help for anger issues.

 

[VonMeister]

Believe what you want, but get help for anger issues.

I'm laughing at you mundus the liar. What did your parents do to you that you can't recognize this?

 

[mundus]

I'm laughing at you mundus the liar. What did your parents do to you that you can't recognize this?

Get help.

 

[sponge]

Right, but 20 years ago at Makaha......

I got kind of punched by a local at Makaha 30 years ago. Recently talked story with the guy and squared things. So much aloha out there.

 

[paunch23]

There seemed to be something inherently wrong in humans and i bet is still in our dna. It’ll just show in a different way these days.
Those early settlers/conquistadors had one , and only one decision to make. Were they gonna co exists with the natives, or dominate them?

This has happened in many areas of the world, not only Hawaii.

 

[One-Off]

I got kind of punched by a local at Makaha 30 years ago. Recently talked story with the guy and squared things. So much aloha out there.

View attachment 86795

Did you deserve the slap? I always have a hard time reconciling the intimidation and fear of violence with the aloha.

Is it just a surfer thing? My bro in law paddles outriggers and goes every year to the Islands for races and is addicted to the aloha.

 

[VonMeister]

The entire time I lived in Hawaii I never felt vibes in the water, but if you look and see how the lineup is working and who is who it's easy. Always realize you are outside of the pecking order at most spots. The kids are the worst and their uncles are usually nearby. Now if you stay at a party too late or hang out in Wahiawa at night you're going to find trouble.

 

[lagunaboy]

If you’re coming from California or anywhere else don’t even think of trying to surf Makaha. Your car will be stole, you’ll be beaten senseless, and they’ll steal your firewire potatonator.