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big boys, grovelers and board height

4

4daBOYZ

OTF status
Jul 27, 2011
174
15
18
it's not so much an issue in winter time when the waves have more juice but in summer time when things are softer and more mushier. i've been watching some of my surfing and noticed in softer waist high surf i really struggle to get to the back of my tailpad. i am more forward on my board after popping up to get going but getting back to the kick is a struggle. if i pop up right on the arch bar then the problem is getting momentum down the line. been watching a lot of noel salas' videos and notice he surfs boards that are a lot shorter than him. I know footwork is kind of an issue in itself but would a fatter guy like me find a shorter groveler easier to work through this than a longer groveler? if a guy is 6'0 and 225 wouldnt he want a groveler shorter than a guy 6'0 175 if the thickness/widths dims match their weights? I'm thinking in terms of mass, a bigger guy on a shorter board will need less foot movement up and down the board resulting in less bogging. im 6'0 225 and was going to order a 6'0 for summer but thinking maybe i should go 5'9 or 5'10 and that might help me. 45 liter 5'10? lol or maybe i just suck and need to working on moving my back foot up and down the board better, but its hard it smaller gutless surf.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,150
23,058
113
PNW
I do think a shorter groveler is easier in small mush for the reasons you've mentioned. It's hard for me to imagine a 45L 5-10 but I'm a relative lightweight (180) compared to you. Do you have a specific shaper or model you are looking into?
 
M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,064
4,586
113
Innzid
I know that 'forward volume to ease paddling' is the mantra of the moment, but I'd look into boards that are thicker between the feet - in the Engine Room, so to speak. This is an example: https://www.joshkeoghsurfboards.com/infinite-jest

The description is good, but the photos don't do it justice. Better ones here:

www.ridesurf.net

【Joshua Keogh】Infinite Jest 6'2"

長さ：6'2"幅：21厚み：2 5/8 ※フィン別売り オーストラリア製 定規を当てているのは以下の4点です。・ノーズから約30cm・センター・フィンの前・フ…
www.ridesurf.net
 
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maybe

maybe

Michael Peterson status
Jul 23, 2011
2,375
1,204
113
Not enough info.

How long have you been surfing?
How old are you?
What are some breaks you surf at?

Listen, don't compare yourself to someone you see in videos and don't think you have to ride a 5'10 for every session.
If I was 225 and surfing soft, waist-high waves, I would be on an egg or log.
Like a carpenter, you gotta bring the right tool.
At the end of the day it's about how many waves you caught and much fun you had.
 
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4

4daBOYZ

OTF status
Jul 27, 2011
174
15
18
Aruka said:
I do think a shorter groveler is easier in small mush for the reasons you've mentioned. It's hard for me to imagine a 45L 5-10 but I'm a relative lightweight (180) compared to you. Do you have a specific shaper or model you are looking into?
Click to expand...
not really. was thinking maybe a fish since they have a lot of speed or something short and stubby. maybe something with the midpoint a little farther back than traditional grovelers might be better for me
 
Last edited:
4

4daBOYZ

OTF status
Jul 27, 2011
174
15
18
Maz said:
I know that 'forward volume to ease paddling' is the mantra of the moment, but I'd look into boards that are thicker between the feet - in the Engine Room, so to speak. This is an example: https://www.joshkeoghsurfboards.com/infinite-jest

The description is good, but the photos don't do it justice. Better ones here:

www.ridesurf.net

【Joshua Keogh】Infinite Jest 6'2"

長さ：6'2"幅：21厚み：2 5/8 ※フィン別売り オーストラリア製 定規を当てているのは以下の4点です。・ノーズから約30cm・センター・フィンの前・フ…
www.ridesurf.net
Click to expand...
ya i was thinking of staying away from those boards that have more forward midpoints however those boards are usually hyped as the better paddling boards so its kinda tricky. that infinite jest looks nice any other suggestions that would fall in that category?
 
Retropete

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,017
4,525
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
Maz said:
I know that 'forward volume to ease paddling' is the mantra of the moment, but I'd look into boards that are thicker between the feet - in the Engine Room, so to speak. This is an example: https://www.joshkeoghsurfboards.com/infinite-jest

The description is good, but the photos don't do it justice. Better ones here:

www.ridesurf.net

【Joshua Keogh】Infinite Jest 6'2"

長さ：6'2"幅：21厚み：2 5/8 ※フィン別売り オーストラリア製 定規を当てているのは以下の4点です。・ノーズから約30cm・センター・フィンの前・フ…
www.ridesurf.net
Click to expand...
I dig that board!
 
4

4daBOYZ

OTF status
Jul 27, 2011
174
15
18
maybe said:
Not enough info.

How long have you been surfing?
How old are you?
What are some breaks you surf at?

Listen, don't compare yourself to someone you see in videos and don't think you have to ride a 5'10 for every session.
If I was 225 and surfing soft, waist-high waves, I would be on an egg or log.
Like a carpenter, you gotta bring the right tool.
At the end of the day it's about how many waves you caught and much fun you had.
Click to expand...
early 30s. been surfing since i was a teen off and on but gotten back into it this past year. surf reef breaks and i do log when its super small i just kind of get bored with it. my favorite winter spots i surf just about all on my backhand so i've progressed more there and am weaker on my forehand but surf more in the summer on my forehand. it's been harder to get better surfing off my rear foot on my forehand with the smaller weaker summer conditions so that's kinda my issue. was thinking maybe i should just get a fish and not worry about trying to surf as vertical on my forehand, but my give it one last shot with a shorter groveler.
 
ciscojaws

ciscojaws

Michael Peterson status
Jul 28, 2008
2,476
654
113
Kook City, VA
5’11 x 215. When I was 235 the 5’10 Bottom Feeder was awesome - no problems getting back on the tail pad. Had a custom 5’10 Fishcuit that I would occasionally step off the back.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,746
23,562
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Tower 13
griffinsurfboard said:
6'2" x 22 1/2" x 2 7/8" Can be shorter too

Much more fun and enabling compared to an Egg or Log
Especially in mushy small surf


Click to expand...
Probably the most important thing you can do in your situation is talk to a qualified shaper. To Griffin's point, they can look at or talk to you about what you're riding as well as the wave you're surfing and dial in something for you. Also, they can make boards seem like they're shorter or longer than they are which may work for your situation.
 
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L

Lohena

OTF status
Oct 30, 2019
307
300
63
Don't be afraid to go shorter than your height if the volume is there. I'm 6'4, my small wave/DDs are all 6'0-6'2.
 
R

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Big guys usually fall into 2 types

Stand on the tail with a very strong hind leg , kinda wider stance , aggressive approach

Stand forward , narrow stance , sidewalk surf / snowboard flow style


It really helps having a shaper know your style and waves . I think mushy wave grovlers are the most difficult boards to get right no matter who you are
 
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need 4 speed

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,711
3,628
113
SoCal
I don't see much benefit in forcing yourself down to 5-10 to fix what sounds more like a stance issue.
I have a self made 5-10 for groveling @41.5 L kind of a blunt nose parallel outline. I like it (not love it)
I frequently pop up with my back foot on top of the tail pad kick. Length =glide for paddling in, tail width and thickness play a role in how well a groveler works imho. Like SBD said best to get a custom
Griff's board posted would be perfect(maybe drop to 6-0 if you have to have it shorter) GG is really good at making big guy boards
 
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L

Lohena

OTF status
Oct 30, 2019
307
300
63
retodd said:
Big guys usually fall into 2 types

Stand on the tail with a very strong hind leg , kinda wider stance , aggressive approach

Stand forward , narrow stance , sidewalk surf / snowboard flow style


It really helps having a shaper know your style and waves . I think mushy wave grovlers are the most difficult boards to get right no matter who you are
Click to expand...
This is very interesting retodd. I'm tall and have stand forward / sidewalk surfer style, but honestly have never really thought about it until recently.

Are there board design aspects that work better for this type of style? I've recently been liking volume forward boards (HS Untitled / Ghost), but I'm not sure if those are generally just good boards or if they have design aspects that work uniquely for my style that I should also look for in other boards.

Great insight!
 
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4

4daBOYZ

OTF status
Jul 27, 2011
174
15
18
ciscojaws said:
5’11 x 215. When I was 235 the 5’10 Bottom Feeder was awesome - no problems getting back on the tail pad. Had a custom 5’10 Fishcuit that I would occasionally step off the back.
Click to expand...
im assuming the bottom feeder was custom too? curious what dims you went with on the 2 boards
 
4

4daBOYZ

OTF status
Jul 27, 2011
174
15
18
need 4 speed said:
I don't see much benefit in forcing yourself down to 5-10 to fix what sounds more like a stance issue.
I have a self made 5-10 for groveling @41.5 L kind of a blunt nose parallel outline. I like it (not love it)
I frequently pop up with my back foot on top of the tail pad kick. Length =glide for paddling in, tail width and thickness play a role in how well a groveler works imho. Like SBD said best to get a custom
Griff's board posted would be perfect(maybe drop to 6-0 if you have to have it shorter) GG is really good at making big guy boards
Click to expand...
it probably is mostly a stance issue that is exaggerated/more noticeable on smaller waves. i was just thinking that if there's a way to have better equipment to help work through it im all ears haha.
 
R

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Lohena said:
This is very interesting retodd. I'm tall and have stand forward / sidewalk surfer style, but honestly have never really thought about it until recently.

Are there board design aspects that work better for this type of style? I've recently been liking volume forward boards (HS Untitled / Ghost), but I'm not sure if those are generally just good boards or if they have design aspects that work uniquely for my style that I should also look for in other boards.

Great insight!
Click to expand...
Greg could answer some off This stuff better but I will try

The 2 boards mentioned have thickness flow moved up and nose widths that are kinda wider.

This helps suport the weight when the stance is forward
The rest of the board is along for the ride and since they are fairly neutral keeping them in control is easy . Combine that with fins that stay free ( no inside foil and smaller back fin )

I bet you would love a forward vee board . Rawson does some sweet ones that have light concaves out the tail

http://instagr.am/p/BsV5lAsHbDT/
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,746
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Tower 13
yeah remember that people like griff have tried all combos with a lot of different people so in my opinion that's going to be the quickest and cheapest way to getting what you want.
 
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