Best crowd killer performance board

sdsrfr

Michael Peterson status
Jul 13, 2020
3,445
6,804
113
San Diego
Bigger issue is the no fugs given mentality of surfers going on a wave due to their perceived entitlement for that wave.

the arms race is over, everyone has nukes and nobody can surf these water crafts for chit.

I’ve just started delaying my drop in thats deeper than them and ripping in the pocket while they stand like a hunchback way out on the shoulder.
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
18,922
10,446
113
Jacksonville Beach
What board would you choose to ride surfing these waves?
If those waves had nobody out I'd ride anything without a lot of rocker.

With that horde of donkeys pointlessly burning each other and paddling up the face to avoid duck dives, I'd ride the first flight back to Florida, where I can surf wobbly dogshit in peace instead of with a million people.
 
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rowjimmytour

Kelly Slater status
Feb 7, 2009
9,890
4,344
113
Rbeach
Bigger issue is the no fugs given mentality of surfers going on a wave due to their perceived entitlement for that wave.

the arms race is over, everyone has nukes and nobody can surf these water crafts for chit.

I’ve just started delaying my drop in thats deeper than them and ripping in the pocket while they stand like a hunchback way out on the shoulder.
+1 paddle deeper up reef but shoulder hopper(s) usually cave in wave at 1st crack before wave starts to stand up again:bricks:
 
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GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
41,996
7,815
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
When I was in my late 40's- 50's, at 6' tall and 205lb, I would get eggs around my own height or slightly less, 21" wide and 2 7/8" thick. It was more than enough then. The problem now is the size of the boards in the lineup has increased. Then it was guys mostly on HP shortboards. Now, on the points it's mostly longboards and around 7' midsize stuff. So I don't know. You adjust to the level you want to go. Take it up whatever size you need. I've cut a very few of them at 8'. I have multiple versions. Start at 6'2" and run to around 7'3".

Did one for my son a little bit ago that he is in love with. He's about 6'2" and 175. He loads for me here and there, and is ghost shaping for someone else, so he's been around a little now. Did his board at 6'2", 20 1/2, 2 5/8. (it probably finished out at 2 9/16") He was shocked at how little it limited him as opposed to some of the other stuff he rides. Equally shocked at how easy it was to surf and catch waves.
I wish I had the luxury of sizing my boards for the waves and the way I want to surf them. The sad reality is I have to size my boards to try to compete with the crowd......much of whom these days use big boards as a crutch for a lack of ability or as a means to wave hog.
 
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rowjimmytour

Kelly Slater status
Feb 7, 2009
9,890
4,344
113
Rbeach
the STRETCH Mid-Life is a bit odd so far for me ..... 7'10" (x23x 3-1/2, 65 L) .... for starters, I wish I had gone 3.75 for thickness for a smidge more volume (my 7'6 proctor is 3.75 , and I should have matched that on the build :() ... it actually "feels" shorter than my 7'6" proctor (monsta chief) and so far surfs more like my 7'2" proctor (Pavote-Jet) -- being a "mid", I kinf of expected more glide and "ease of entry" paddling, but honestly it already seems the MID-LIFE leans a bit more towards a true short board and not really an "easy going" mid-length :bricks:
and now my quiver looks like a bag of skittles, LOL ..... I need to order something in the 9' range now to finish off the daily drivers so I'll have 7'10, 8'10 and 9'10 lineup ... ... I'm thinking another STRETCH, the IT model: 8'10 (x23 or 23-1/2x3.75" or 4", with quad+1 center & channeled rears.... I'm going to ask if they'll do an epoxy resin TINT instead of airbrush/spray :waving:

they look almost all the same size from this angle :LOL:
View attachment 119457


but, not quite ...:drowning:
View attachment 119459
 

santacruzin

Phil Edwards status
Oct 17, 2007
7,490
5,974
113
valley purgatory
To avoid crowds I surf waves that break in shallow places, spots with lots of rocks , places that do not have a parking lot , beachbreaks or surf marquee spots at odd hours, sub optimal tides with wind etc.

I can’t play in the arms race, have a bad shoulder so riding huge boards is out for me.
The egg recommendation is sounding pretty good to me
 
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oneula

Miki Dora status
Jun 3, 2004
4,208
2,182
113
Same size - color Hovercraft as recently posted but 8 years ago in Waikiki

Largest I make , usually 5'2" - 5'6"

View attachment 119484
well some have been known to go all the way up to 6'2" for the "fat boy surf club" members. I have two, a custom and one picked up from a childhood friend who's bigger than me.

Cyril Hovercraft 2.JPG

Cyril Hovercraft 3.JPG

Another 5'10"x 24"x 3.5" big boy fish (original owner was 240lb)

d8b64c66-2717-4dc9-a396-8318b9bd8712_zpsdwzibgpo.PNGd5267c16-fa44-436e-81ac-bf22f86def7d_zpsxdtdftdq.PNG
 

wedge2

OTF status
Jan 20, 2011
251
251
63
My 5'8 Kane Garden twin is so freakin fun from 2-6 foot...its about 36 liters and paddles like a dream, also hits you like a tank - can't believe I haven't snapped it
 
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Retropete

Miki Dora status
Jan 20, 2006
4,788
2,069
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
This One Bad Egg looks like a good egg.

Been spoiled by longer twin surfing with flair of late and so to me that footage shows a board that looks stiff and a bit slow with that 2+1 set up with large sidebites. I mean its good just a bit 2015 is all. It doesn't make me go "Wow, I really want one of those so i can paddle out and do that too."
 

Retropete

Miki Dora status
Jan 20, 2006
4,788
2,069
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
I'm the outlier when it comes to the Christenson flat tracker. Always lot of love for it on here but maybe it suits California waves far better than the points of Noosa where I rode mine. I just prefer the concave bottom mids for the accelerator pedal under the foot feel compared to the boards with old school rolled bottom feel.
 
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