59 here an f/um is right. last thing i want to do is jockey with pack of clowns haf my age.Bro, if you are 60, DGAF what any of us say. You ride whatever you want. We've all got our self-righteous opinions, but I'd bet half the keyboar warriors (LOL) on here won't still be surfing at 60. F- um.
dont get me wrong. its true what said about positioning and wave selection. but when you combine the wave knowledge with big board skillz (yea skill bog rail bitches) then you are the real crowd killa
on a bender a couple weeksback. had a session on the twinny that went south when a pack of midlife midlengthers dongboards mobbed my sh!t. came back the next day with the 10 oh and did laps carving up the circus.
friend turn to me at one point and was like. dude... chill... you won the heat already.
to which i told him nah. im not done. not til everyone of these fuckers regrets that ive been at this for 50 years