Back Foot Back B!tch!

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,564
4,360
113
Tower 13
I don't have a problem admitting I'm a "surfer". I've worked hard to improve and, at this point, feel comfortable saying I'm a "surfer". I would probably never introduce myself that way. But if someone asked, called me a surfer, or asked if I'm a surfer, I would absolutely say "yes".

But as far as a sense of self or an identity... I'm ReForest. :waving:
crazy coincidence. there used to be a poster named deforest
 
Apr 6, 2015
84
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I identify as the kook who needs to cut his traction pad in half.

Great tip. I'm often too far forward on my pad.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
19,565
6,144
113
I usually just clarify that "I surf" if someone asks if I'm surfer. I once deeply offended a friend by saying I thought it was weird when people our age still identified as "surfers." To each their own.
I just see it like this...

I do a lot of things, martial arts, shooting, cycling, photography, run a business, surf, skate, snowboard etc.

But im not an ‘er’ of any of them.

Other than family surfing is probably the most important thing in my life.

Other than family.

So I guess I’m a father and a husband. I’m ok with that label.
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,564
4,360
113
Tower 13
I just see it like this...

I do a lot of things, martial arts, shooting, cycling, photography, run a business, surf, skate, snowboard etc.

But im not an ‘er’ of any of them.

Other than family surfing is probably the most important thing in my life.

Other than family.

So I guess I’m a father and a husband. I’m ok with that label.
are you a post'er' ?
 
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LifeOnMars

Nep status
Jan 14, 2020
612
329
63
I’ve been surfing for 40 years and have never considered myself a “surfer”.

I’m me, Duffy. I’m a person.

I surf and have surfed for a long time. I have made choices in my life to ensure and increase my time surfing. I have sacrificed money, relationships and education all for the act of surfing.

Surfing has ruined my life.

But I would never call myself a ‘surfer’.
semantics but "surfer" meaning someone who has the ability to actually surf the wave. personally I don't identify with the term "surfer" either but have competence and wave riding capabilities. we choose to ride waves as an act of pleasure, not to project an image for others.
 
Apr 6, 2015
84
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Pretty sure my foot goes further back when I have a flat pad or no pad.

I get hung up on the arch.
I agree with SDSFR about this. I think I'm far enough back because I feel the arch, and I'm not.

So I cut the front half of my traction pad off of my two main boards this morning. This is a habit I want to break.

Will see how this goes. I used a razor blade to cut the pads off, and it was a total pain in the ass (until I remembered that a hair dryer would help).

What do I do about the big gashes in the decks of my boards now? Will they help me get my foot back, too?
 
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000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
22,581
1,341
113
as far back as college i didnt want anyone to know i surfed. some dude asked me if ive been surfing, i said "u arent gettin me out there in that cold water"
 

daave

Gerry Lopez status
Dec 28, 2002
1,037
317
83
Back foot back is important in turns. But really good surfers move their back foot. They don't just jam it against the tail block and leave it there. I think it's more important to get used to moving the back foot around.
 

doc_flavonoid

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 27, 2019
551
898
93
Back foot back is important in turns. But really good surfers move their back foot. They don't just jam it against the tail block and leave it there. I think it's more important to get used to moving the back foot around.
really good surfers move both their feet. salasito is a robotic tool
 
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Havoc

Miki Dora status
May 23, 2016
3,851
3,205
113
in da hood next to paradise
Why people hating on Noel Salas? He is a very good surfer and is knowledgeable and articulate.
if u saw his patience in answering the stvpd a$$ questions he gets on utube, u would have a whole nother level of respect for him. things like "i'm an intermediate and want to get the 6'8 or 6'10 firewire seaside. which do u rec?" or "the breakers u surf look dreamy, can i join u at your spot for some waves?"