When I'm able to paddle out it's always amazing but I often feel like I'm missing the good days, the consistency, the feeling of being able to surf all the time.
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Are we, as surfers, perpetually trying to recreate the carefree days of our youth?
- Thread starter VaB
- Start date
No. If its something you've invested your time in because you love it, that should never go away.
They say a sign of depression is losing interest in things you used to love.
I just look at people funny when they say something like 'a bunch of guys out there trying to re-live their youth'. And generally, its a pussy who's never done anything dangerous who would say something like that.
They say a sign of depression is losing interest in things you used to love.
I just look at people funny when they say something like 'a bunch of guys out there trying to re-live their youth'. And generally, its a pussy who's never done anything dangerous who would say something like that.
I like my life better at 50 than I did at 25. Working and college full time was tough. OB was great in the mid 90s though. I miss the trips to Baja. I was on Teresas at least 2 days a week on south swells. Roso beach break. I do most of the things I did 25 years ago. I just need a nap and 9 is my bed time. I travel more. I eat healthier and drink better wine. I surfed more and better at 25 but I surf better waves now.
I still love surfing, but I decided there was more to life than splashing water. Being a good husband and dad became a higher priority.
I don't love surfing any less than in my teens, but I love my wife and kid more.
I don't love surfing any less than in my teens, but I love my wife and kid more.
Don't over think it. Treat every session like it could be your last. Work the lineup like its your last day on earth. Take every wave. 
That statement is a true reflection about your personality based on your posts I've read in the Politics forum.Take every wave.
I bet you make a wonderful traveler.
I'm chill and know my place when I travel......but still get enough waves to keep me happy. That post was tongue in cheek to an extent...notice the emoji....in my 20s and 30s I'll admit I was a total dick to outsiders. Times were different back then though. Today everyone is entitled and its a shitshow. These days I'm old and slow and go find places to get as far away from people as I can to get my waves.
i am as stocked on surfing as i have ever been - not trying to recreate - never left the first time
the other day - been still good over here
currently waiting for my kid to wake up
now and then hopping on scooter to go surf a right slab
the other day - been still good over here
currently waiting for my kid to wake up
now and then hopping on scooter to go surf a right slab
Same.
Some of the guys I surf with are total rippers and are the types to never miss a swell. It seems that most of them have personal lives that suffer from their desire to surf all the time.
Surfing is a fun hobby, but its nothing more than that to 99% of us regardless of what we tell ourselves. I surf when I can but more important priorities come first.
see mental heath thread
what if that drives allows them to "live" a domesticated life?
surfing or booze/drugs?
As much as the commute between OC and SD sucked, it did give me the chance to surf a lot on the way home. It was easy to convince my wife too since the alternative was Happy Hour at Karl Strauss across the street from my office.
The opportunity is less now that my hours are getting in later and leaving later. Looked out my window - dark already.
Probably just getting light for dawn patrol for you now! I am envious.
Not trying to recreate anything; trying to show my offspring what's out there. She is a fish, loves swimming, being on boats and in the water. Its in her DNA; surfing now is showing my daughter one way she can spend the carefree days of HER youth!
Different people can tolerate different levels of domesticity.
I've seen plenty maintain hard core surfing lives and bring up loving families.
Seen plenty drift downwards into lives of quiet desperation whilst being good family men......