HDip - you’re not wrong at all. My comments are more a statement about today’s world vs this specific incident. More people need to be called out for being shitheels. Including Andy if he is one. I don’t know him.
Taking turns at First Point?I've stated my view on it above.
Let's look at Andy's side of things from that Instagram screenshot.
Young kid who has a lot of energy and can paddle all day long against the current is catching a lot of waves. Andy catches a wave (he says he's being raced back up the point, so he's paddling back out from a wave too) When Andy is paddling back. Young kid who is energetic and is just paddling up the point ends up next to Andy at some point. Andy takes this as disrespect and barks at him. (he's probably barked at people all day long at this point) The kid catches a wave, which he didn't wait his turn for. Andy drops in on him to purposely burn him. It wasn't Andy's turn either. He was paddling back up the point right?
So who is in the wrong? The kid who is catching to many waves? Or the old guy who can't compete anymore and is catching to many waves? We have to throw out the "I've been waiting longer so it's my turn" rule.
If they're both in the wrong in not waiting their turn, then let's go to the next surf rule. Closest to the curl has priority. The kid meets the criteria here.
So where does Andy fall? He falls under "enforcer". I grew up and earned a spot at a "north LA point" that had lots of rocks, where it was dangerous to take off on people. I half understand this "enforcer" role. I get the point of them. I don't think it helps surfing in this day and age though.
The ocean is a big place. When it's windy there are an infinite amount of waves outside the surf zone. I've chosen to stop playing in the 100 feet along shore for the most part. I pick my battles now.
8 foot faces on this hurricane Frank swell. That camera angle is from above, so it's a bit bigger than what it looks like. It turns into a perfect right hander though. So there's always an easy paddle out. It's always crowded. The more hyped the swell, the more people there are.
I'm probably done with this thread now, said my peace. But, the video is around, just saw someone else link it elsewhere. I'm not even on TikTok just consume to much surf content.video has been taken down?
While I applaud burning anyone who doesn't understand the concept of sharing waves in a lineup, dropping rocks on a kid's board to teach him a lesson is uncalled for... go Aussie style and tie the little fvkcer up to a pole naked for a while.
Does Malibu ever become a challenging serious wave as it gets bigger? I've surfed a reef point in the Caribbean where at double overhead or bigger it can have two very different looks and moods depending on swell angle. Its one mood is a giant playful sweeping point wave where its a crowded shitshow because there are zero consequences. Shift the swell direction and wind a few degrees and at the same size the place wants to kill you. Sketchy ledging takeoffs and horrific reef thrashings and hold downs. It becomes a wave of consequence. Does Malibu ever become anything even remotely like that even on its biggest days?