Search results

  1. T

    When to call someone a kook without being judgemental

    I was out yesterday and this guy paddles out with a brill cream helmet and he kept patting the back of his head and I was thinking "what a kook," but he wasn't acting like a kook, so I didn't want to yell that out to him. Then he caught a wave late and I could see him mostly go straight and...
  2. T

    down rails vs step rails for a big guy board

    I ordered a big guy board from a local shaper and he suggested step rails. I see that proctor does a down rail. which one is good for riding/carving?
  3. T

    my foray into Reddit r/surfing community

    if anyone is following reddit r/surfing you may already know that at any given time, there at least 1 or 2 or 3 beginner threads with the same question (maybe because the way reddit tracks likes?), daily humble brag photos of new surfboard or recent/current trip in Bali or somewhere exotic, or...
  4. T

    The best First Point Analogies

    I just finished listening to the Surf Mastery Podcast with Devon Howard and heard the best analogies about first point that can apply to every premier surf spot like, trestles, Huntington Beach Pier, etc. Analogy #1 from the host of the Podcast A beginner intermediate going to first point...
  5. T

    Longboard contests?

    https://www.surfer.com/features/mexi-log-fest-recap/ Mexi-"log-fest" and the first thing I would think of is Beavis and Butthead snickering. Is it because there is no legit long board tour that these social media driven one off events happen? The guys side was won by an 18 y.o. that no one...
  6. T

    Would a millennial take a surf lesson looking for validation?

    There is the adult learner who used to tag along with me that had their own idea of how they thought they would learn how to surf. I figured this out since sometimes I would give them advice but was met with that "who are you to give me advice" expression. So after their method failed, all the...
  7. T

    If riding prone is pancaking, what is riding on all fours

    there is this pancaker I see at Surfrider all the time, but one day there was this guy riding on all fours at Doho, yes they were both Old, pushing 70. What is it called when you ride on all fours?
  8. T

    Does the Australian Surfer Code sign work?

    I saw this sign the story about the agro Suptard. Will this sign work in the US?
  9. T

    how would you shape a big guy short board?

    I am 6'1" 240 lbs and currently ride logs and mid lengths. All of the off the shelf high volume boards look like blown up versions of their smaller size for smaller or better riders like the Lost Puddle Jumper or proctor monstachief. How would you design a board for a big guy who can ride...
  10. T

    "local" criteria

    What is the criteria to be a local? For example, Lundada Bay, unconfirmed but I was told by an old guy who is "allowed" to paddle out there that some of the guys live within walking distance and the others are in the same zip code then the rest are "invited" guests. I can see that as an...
  11. T

    The Kook List

    What makes you and others kooks? Who are the biggest kooks? I am over 50, so I am instantly qualified as a kook. "surf couples" on Instagram who take pictures of themselves in the van conversions pretending they "camped" somewhere where is there is no camping with the back of their van...
  12. T

    why do kooks travel in packs?

    hardly in pairs, but always see them storming the beach in 3s and 4s.
  13. T

    We are all irrelvant

    https://beachgrit.com/2019/02/iconic-ex-editor-sam-george-writes-surfer-magazine-is-no-longer-relevant/ erm, uh, Surfer magazine is no longer relevant.
  14. T

    what criteria went into purchasing your last board?

    I just listened to a podcast where Rob Bain said that 90% of all Intermediate surfers are riding the wrong board. So with that being said I was wondering what criteria went into your most recent board purchase or board you had shaped? Brand, surf shop advice, friend advice, shaper advice...
  15. T

    Breaking News, regular at local break can't believe being burned by adult learner of soft top

    Regular at the local break was out this past Sunday when an adult learner, who rented a board from the on beach kiosk, dropped in on him. Pete, who is usually pretty mellow and knows everyone in the parking lot by name, threw his arms up and yelled every expletive at that guy. Pete then paddled...
  16. T

    she kooks come out and play

    I mostly paddle out early and realize that I never see any kooks that are women out at Sunrise. Just the past couple of times I have been at the beach in the late morning/early afternoon with my toddler, I have seen trios of nerdy girls going out. Like today, they obviously didn't check the...
  17. T

    Does this technically count as a drop in?

    This morning at a local beach break I was paddling for a wave then a guy a little more deeper spun around and started paddling too. I was on a groveler so I was up on the green part of the wave but this guy still kept going and popped up in the white water after the peak broke and was trying to...
  18. T

    Pulling my support for Surfrider LA

    Surfrider LA is supporting a hateful vendetta so I am no longer going to donate time or money to them: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrGLWU4HTm-/
  19. T

    Make yourself feel better after a bad sesh

    a while ago when I was checking the cams I saw these two beginners having a bad day, so I thought I would download it and submit it to kook of the day, but that never happened. So now, after I have a bad sesh I watch it to make me feel good about myself.