I'm the same person dims as Callum Robson, fourteen years older and was riding the same volume for my shortboard last winter. Big self own
Edit: I also sit behind a desk for a living and have no visible abs.
I think they should replace Sunset with Haleiwa tbh. It's still an absolutely brutal wave to surf, a lot more aesthetically pleasing to the uneducated eye, and actually enjoyable to watch when it's smaller. That or change the judging criteria so guys sit deeper when Sunset is huge.
Don't be a little bitch. Get yourself a PU thruster with a rounded pintail about six inches longer than your height and score some fun waves. Not saying you gotta go charge 8ft Sunset, but have some self-respect man! Leave the epoxy grovelers at home.
Is it just me or does there seem to be long lulls between sets? I woke up at six to surf ponto and ended up going back to bed. Tide looked like it was putting a lot of wonk on it. Think I made the right call.
Pretty crumbly already?