Fark, some pretty great surfing in day one.
I think Barron Mamiya is gonna be the new Jjf. So much poise and control.
But for right now, JJF is still amazing and leading the way in progression and serious surf
Im on mobile so it’s hard to see the location easily, but there are options it seems.
Just realized this vid is from 2016. Still amazing though.
K, so there was (and probably still is) this poster from the late 70's hanging in Cal-Taco in Goleta of a side view of someone (Jeff Hackman, maybe?) in an absolutely enormous cave-section barrel. I think you can clearly see the cave...
Meh, maybe that means I'm not an addict. I really get no thrill from the idea of the "ultimate jedi trip". Seems silly to me. No offense though. Whatever floats your boat.
Sometimes I get the urge to smoke more than I probably should, but in overall very low quantities. And the needs of...
Thanks for the background sharkbisquit.
Okay now that I know what's going on, a lil story.
There's a guy who surfs my local all the time and we've chatted for a couple years now.
We ended up exchanging contact info (we are both musicians) and it turns out he is a they.
But, with a wetsuit and...