Funnest dawn patrol I’ve had in ages. Just me and my buddy down the block. no other surfers for a half mile in either direction. Not perfect by any means. But mirror glass. Some fun stomach high sets, nice and shallow with the first light low tide. didn’t get a ton of waves but two of them were legit little pig dog barrels made cleanly. One of those was a barrel whilst traversing the outside of the jetty, from east to west, which always adds a little spice to the view, even on small days
that’s the end of my hijack, I’m actually really looking forward to how this thread goes. Be safe Chocki and have a blast and thank you for live blogging a cross country road trip. That’s epic.
you may be totally nuts but that’s part of the fun. America is a truly miraculous place
Stocked you had a good surf. I cant wait to make some turns on snow. And America is one the greatest countries on earth despite its faults and despite all the ahole drivers I love all the people I meet in my travels.
Dude who pumped my gas in NJ last night cracked up when I said “did anyone try and pump their own gas tonight? I bet somebody tried to pump their own gas” and was super stocked when I slipped him a fiver and said “you look cold, go get a cup o coffee on me”.
And speaking of Waze I’m old school so I speed the old fashioned way, either with a fast moving blocker way up ahead running interference and/or with a sacrificial lamb behind me. On the way here I was speeding and thought I’d drawn the attention of LEO so I floored it and immediately excited the highway lol