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***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter Kento
- Start date
My kind of day. beachbreak waves on the flare in the morning. Showed up to the point with the glider in the PM and decided to fish while my buddies paddled out. i figured i'd give some time for the folks that were already out. caught corvina, bass, halibut and croaker off the beach. epic. finished it off with a nearly solo session on the glider. just the way I like it. damn, the baja still exists
oh and Kay put a pretty good hurt on the peninsula. fair amount of detours and I buried the truck in mud this morning after our beachbreak surf. luckily some digging, air out of the tires, and a little bit of experience avoided the embarrassment of the locals pulling us out
oh and Kay put a pretty good hurt on the peninsula. fair amount of detours and I buried the truck in mud this morning after our beachbreak surf. luckily some digging, air out of the tires, and a little bit of experience avoided the embarrassment of the locals pulling us out
September was a bust for me, much like most of 2022 surf wise. Winds are onshore so much down here like it is June. I was in Kodiak Alaska last week and got skunked there too. I was there in 2009 and got 3 good days of waves. This time it was SE swell which is good but SE winds which is not good for the areas with most surf potential. Took a drive to some north facing spots with a local but just not enough east in the swell to get down in these nooks and crannies. The potential though. I was drooling at these set ups. 
Good to hear you're back. Saw someone packing up a with a mid size Hess Friday around VFW.
I rode through Mid Beach on my bike at sunset and it looked really fun. It had me psyching for Friday AM. It looked fun at sunrise but Baby Daddy duty had me delayed until after 9. By then, the tide started rising and it got funky. A friend talked me into going to the North end and I managed to snag 2 fun ones amongst a THICK crowd. Water was warm, rode a shortboard, all in all, it felt like I accomplished something which salved a little of the feeling of blowing it by missing it the night before and that morning. Looked fun Sunday too. I dragged the whole family to GGP for a music festival and the only band I wanted to see cancelled.
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pretty much "as good as it gets," at home.
it dawned on me that stretch super buzz is a board too advanced for me , and that watching yourself on video really truly humbles you.
it dawned on me that stretch super buzz is a board too advanced for me , and that watching yourself on video really truly humbles you.
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Scored some A++ waves the end of last week, solo for an hr, then only a couple duus - a rando n a regular. Super fun, very long period (20 sec) bit Overhead, hollow 100-150 yard ride Been real hit or miss lately.
I just picked this up from glass shop. I hated it after I sprayed it but now I dig the color.
I just picked this up from glass shop. I hated it after I sprayed it but now I dig the color.
Yes sir. Really loose.
Too wide maybe? I dont know♂
running thruster setup captains fins large set which are pretty big fins.
You know those surfs when nothing goes right? Grumpy crowd; can't scratch into waves; bad wind; sh!t rhythm?
Well, today was the polar opposite. Great point swell - OH to near 2 x OH - and a light sea breeze, which makes for clean faces at the points. Add to that about 10 happy, relaxed, generous crew. Oh, and it was really consistent.
Waited outside for bombs, laughed with friends, stroked into waves with ease, and generally was so stupidly relaxed. The perfect antidote to a stressful day at work, and our old dog on his last legs.
Very very happy and grateful.
Well, today was the polar opposite. Great point swell - OH to near 2 x OH - and a light sea breeze, which makes for clean faces at the points. Add to that about 10 happy, relaxed, generous crew. Oh, and it was really consistent.
Waited outside for bombs, laughed with friends, stroked into waves with ease, and generally was so stupidly relaxed. The perfect antidote to a stressful day at work, and our old dog on his last legs.
Very very happy and grateful.
mushy reef waves this morning, with some occasional double ups when the sets hit the reef the right way. took the moonstone out since I hadn't ridden it in awhile, and it was the right call. board knifes in well for a long fish. water's gotten colder - mid-60's maybe.
Witnessed by myself in the lane parking lot yesterday.......
An individual putting on their ***Official WSL JJF #12 Jersey*** over their wetsuit and paddling out for a sarf!
Duuu was ready to shred hard!
An individual putting on their ***Official WSL JJF #12 Jersey*** over their wetsuit and paddling out for a sarf!
Duuu was ready to shred hard!
double sesh today. first on the mitsven with some challenging overhead conditions. second sesh at the reef had the best rights I've had since Salina Cruz. slightly undergunned on the flare but she fvcked hard. surfed pretty much as good as ever which was refreshing. pretty damn stocked.
Which Mitsven? Did you get another gentlemans stap?
Had to drive up to Riverside early for work yesterday but had time to stop and get an hour session in at my usual before getting back to the office. It looked like there were some pretty good waves* on tap with only 3 people on it so I grabbed my banjo for the first time in a bit. I immediately stroked into a decent wave that got under everyone right as I was paddling out, then it went flat for 20 minutes, classic. Eventually some more waves popped back up and I got a few, pulled into a barrel but lost it, did some nice feeling swoops on a couple more waves. Between the overcast conditions and temp dropping, it was right on the edge of comfy in trunks. It took a sec to adapt to the banjo but it felt great, Tim knows his sh!t.
Tried to pretend I was still in my early twenties at a punk show last night and jacked up my shoulder, hopefully it just needs a little rest and won't keep me out of the water.
*for this mediocre little spot.
Had to drive up to Riverside early for work yesterday but had time to stop and get an hour session in at my usual before getting back to the office. It looked like there were some pretty good waves* on tap with only 3 people on it so I grabbed my banjo for the first time in a bit. I immediately stroked into a decent wave that got under everyone right as I was paddling out, then it went flat for 20 minutes, classic. Eventually some more waves popped back up and I got a few, pulled into a barrel but lost it, did some nice feeling swoops on a couple more waves. Between the overcast conditions and temp dropping, it was right on the edge of comfy in trunks. It took a sec to adapt to the banjo but it felt great, Tim knows his sh!t.
Tried to pretend I was still in my early twenties at a punk show last night and jacked up my shoulder, hopefully it just needs a little rest and won't keep me out of the water.
*for this mediocre little spot.
My 6’1 roundtail. Haven’t ordered my new stap yet
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Wore my fullsuit for the first time in a while last night , local reef, fun sets but some long lulls. Was a little too hot in my wetsuit but my old joints work better too warm than too cold. Got one great wave and a bunch of average ones. Was worried about my knee which popped and swelled up a little last weekend when I took the wife to a couple concerts but it only hurt walking back up the stairs not while doing the actual shredding
Woke up at 330 this AM and couldn't get back to sleep. With all that time, I started to wonder what might be happening at a certain beach break that's been dormant all summer. And for a change, I actually got off my ass and decided to investigate. Arrived at first light. Conditions appeared to be mostly closed out with a few corners. I wasn't all that motivated but had to jump in after driving that far. Not to mention I wanted the benefits of nature's bidet after a pitstop at a well-used portapotty. The waves were more fun than they looked. Warm water and a few open faces. The last one had two corners coming together and made for a very whackable end section. Joy.
Rode the 5'9" RocketWide and 7' United Latrine.
Rode the 5'9" RocketWide and 7' United Latrine.
Late yesterday at chest high point break. Crowded as hell but consistent enough to get plenty of waves. Paddling back out a set wave came through and it looked like the couple of dudes deeper in were passing for some reason, though they were in a good position, so I went. Turns out a guy did go and he came up from behind and blocked the front side of my board with his shins. I fell backward. I thought that I'd be pissed if someone ever did that to me but I wasn't at all. In fact, I would have apologized for dropping in if the opportunity presented itself. It's a smooth move and he executed it perfectly, I have to say. Must have been satisfying.