Design your own board in 3 easy steps

[waxfoot]

I can imagine this initiative ruffling some feathers?

Saw a post by Kinaroad on their instagram that you can have your own designs manufactured by their factory, for a very reasonable price
http://instagr.am/p/CjWovB1PXBa/
Hardly the first step in a slippery slope to surfboard "piracy", but it's more accessible than ever now I'd imagine:

Design your own

The world's best surfboards made locally

kinasurf.com

 

[vanrysss]

I should be able to whip this up in 3dShaper no problemo right?

 

[GromsDad]

I can imagine this initiative ruffling some feathers?

Saw a post by Kinaroad on their instagram that you can have your own designs manufactured by their factory, for a very reasonable price
http://instagr.am/p/CjWovB1PXBa/
Hardly the first step in a slippery slope to surfboard "piracy", but it's more accessible than ever now I'd imagine:

Design your own

The world's best surfboards made locally

kinasurf.com

That's pretty much what a rack board costs. For that money I'd take a rack board.
I can still bang out a PU/PE shortboard in my shed for about $230 in materials as a backyarder.
Good luck to the at home "designer" in putting together the elements of a good board in Shape3D and having it come out as they envisioned within the first 10 or 15 attempts unless the company offers a lot of hand holding in the process or if they just offer canned designs with only minor tweaks.

 

[jkb]

If they developed their own simplified board building program, I'm betting it would be pretty well received.

However, sending people to develop their own file in Shape3d makes me think it won't be very popular.

 

[waxfoot]

That's pretty much what a rack board costs. For that money I'd take a rack board.
I can still bang out a PU/PE shortboard in my shed for about $230 in materials as a backyarder.
Good luck to the at home "designer" in putting together the elements of a good board in Shape3D and having it come out as they envisioned within the first 10 or 15 attempts unless the company offers a lot of hand holding in the process or if they just offer canned designs with only minor tweaks.

That's AUD, so about 580 Freedom tokens for an EPS board, and my point flew way over your head it seems.

It's pretty easy to distribute files over the webternets, hence the piracy comment They are also the EPS company that builds Tomo boards, CI etc, so not a backyard job either.

 

[ghostshaper]

does it come w/ fins designed for the board?

 

[need 4 speed]

I would hope they have "stock" models to start from. I could see it working perfectly for some willing to do a little extra to dial something in for themselves. I like to ride relatively short boards ( w/ high volume) for my age and old broken down body. Stock boards aren't sized well for me. As stated they are going to do final editing to keep the customer from creating a file that's a complete dog with what looks like quality builds

 

[000]

"pet skin" sounds gross

 

[Mr J]

that's a good package for the right person, 3 week turnaround they say. A hobbyist customer should have at least a few successful cuts under their belt before purchasing such a high end build.

 

[need 4 speed]

@Mr J
my first 4-5 were “edited” by the cutter for errors. The only real issues were in the scrubbing.

Seems to me they’ll be putting “all” of the finishing touches on these build. Hard to go wrong when pretty much all of it‘s done by the pros. Great for dialing in volume, might take a couple

 

[averagejoe]

I can imagine this initiative ruffling some feathers?

Saw a post by Kinaroad on their instagram that you can have your own designs manufactured by their factory, for a very reasonable price
http://instagr.am/p/CjWovB1PXBa/
Hardly the first step in a slippery slope to surfboard "piracy", but it's more accessible than ever now I'd imagine:

Design your own

The world's best surfboards made locally

kinasurf.com

Sounds pretty good to me

 

[000]

its such an obvious good idea for a service, i am shocked we didnt see it sooner

 

[averagejoe]

its such an obvious good idea for a service, i am shocked we didnt see it sooner

You can basically do the same thing with Pure Glass in Costa Mesa. Or at least you could. Not as clean of a process from the consumer standpoint, but still a good deal. Actually a way better deal with PureGlass but you have to kind of know what you’re doing.

 

[000]

and if u get this scan gun, u can rip off others more easily

 

[need 4 speed]

You can basically do the same thing with Pure Glass in Costa Mesa. Or at least you could. Not as clean of a process from the consumer standpoint, but still a good deal. Actually a way better deal with PureGlass but you have to kind of know what you’re doing.

Aloha as well

 

[ghostshaper]

In 2005, we were going to offer this from full cut, to anywhere in between that and full hand shaping, w optional coaching from the shaper whose bay we were going to use. He also wanted to have guest shapers come in and give seminars. Bassy scrubbed a fish. We were going to call it ghostshaper. Then the shaper moved to Hawaii, and it never happened.

 

[000]

I should be able to whip this up in 3dShaper no problemo right?

greg would not be impressed
too much concave

 

[Mr J]

@Mr J
my first 4-5 were “edited” by the cutter for errors. The only real issues were in the scrubbing.

Seems to me they’ll be putting “all” of the finishing touches on these build. Hard to go wrong when pretty much all of it‘s done by the pros. Great for dialing in volume, might take a couple

@need 4 speed I have been wondering how long it took to get happy with your designs. My files have had basic checks with my last Aku cut being given a slice alignment check while I watched. But that hasn't stopped by boards from being unsatisfactory to varying degrees.

If KinaSurf mean major adjusting when they say "Your file will be reviewed by our experienced in house CAD engineering team to ensure your design meets our quality requirements "

Then it could potentially work for the first timer. A Zoom videoconference tutorial would be awesome and worth asking them about.

The sort of help I would have needed is:

Board 1 - the nose rail is going to be too thin in proportion to the rear a slice needs to be added in the front. Also my fin positions would either have had to move up or have more toe-in.

Board 2 - despite adding the front slice I still had disproportionate front/rear rails. This board was a dog, not really sure why it performed so badly - it was a tweaked board 1. Some of it might have been the heavy glass job - I think I was given a heavy weight cloth, but not sure of that.

Board 3 - the fin positions (Griffin) felt absolutely spot on, for a while I loved this board then after I got some surfing lessons the thin rails became too sensitive for me and a bit too much rocker too - I'm convinced that some of this was not my fault and that the machine cut my S3D files thinner than the first 2.

Board 4 - I'm on this now and been riding it a fair bit, but was a bit of disappointment in terms of drive. The fin positions for my Griffins were exactly the same as last year, but they felt all wrong. The help I would have needed from a company like KinaSurf is the area between the front fins is fairly flat - the wrong fin cant has been chosen - we suggest getting FCS 5 degree instead of 9. I have recently moved the front fins up a full 1/4" from my shapers dots and its going really well - so well in the open ocean that I have got excited about surfboard design again. 1/4" is a massive amount! I suspect the extra spread is compensating from the large cant amongst other things.

 

[need 4 speed]

Mostly making minor adjustments now. But I've made the same 3 boards(conceptually the same) multiple times now. The last board I cut at a smaller shop, the owner (who see lots of files) told me that he liked my rail profiles and should stay the course. This helps validate that I'm in the ballpark. To a certain degree I've traveled backwards some, simplifying my designs(partially because I'm doing some of the glassing) but I'm having fun on my latest boards. Not talking badly of the others, only the first didn't work out for me, the rest have been very surfable. I typically error on the high side volume wise(you can scrub off) I spend a fair amount of time on my center slice to get the profile I'm looking for and then copy and paste. I'll then adjust down those slices, this I think helps with keeping proportion

 

[ghostshaper]

@need 4 speed I have been wondering how long it took to get happy with your designs. My files have had basic checks with my last Aku cut being given a slice alignment check while I watched. But that hasn't stopped by boards from being unsatisfactory to varying degrees.

If KinaSurf mean major adjusting when they say "Your file will be reviewed by our experienced in house CAD engineering team to ensure your design meets our quality requirements "

Then it could potentially work for the first timer. A Zoom videoconference tutorial would be awesome and worth asking them about.

The sort of help I would have needed is:

Board 1 - the nose rail is going to be too thin in proportion to the rear a slice needs to be added in the front. Also my fin positions would either have had to move up or have more toe-in.

Board 2 - despite adding the front slice I still had disproportionate front/rear rails. This board was a dog, not really sure why it performed so badly - it was a tweaked board 1. Some of it might have been the heavy glass job - I think I was given a heavy weight cloth, but not sure of that.

Board 3 - the fin positions (Griffin) felt absolutely spot on, for a while I loved this board then after I got some surfing lessons the thin rails became too sensitive for me and a bit too much rocker too - I'm convinced that some of this was not my fault and that the machine cut my S3D files thinner than the first 2.

Board 4 - I'm on this now and been riding it a fair bit, but was a bit of disappointment in terms of drive. The fin positions for my Griffins were exactly the same as last year, but they felt all wrong. The help I would have needed from a company like KinaSurf is the area between the front fins is fairly flat - the wrong fin cant has been chosen - we suggest getting FCS 5 degree instead of 9. I have recently moved the front fins up a full 1/4" from my shapers dots and its going really well - so well in the open ocean that I have got excited about surfboard design again. 1/4" is a massive amount! I suspect the extra spread is compensating from the large cant amongst other things.

View attachment 139556

I'll say this: there is a clear disadvantage to having fins too far back.

I hounded Greg about this, and he finally relented and said the board will track up the face too much, iirc.

But what I experienced, is that when you set the board on rail in a deep bottom turn, it doesn't project you out and up the face with as much speed (drive), if the fins are too far back.

It feels similarly to not having canards in on a straight twin. Anyone that has felt the difference between a magic twinzer and has surfed the same board as a straight twin knows the difference in speed and projection, when driving off the rail.