***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,511
113
PNW
yikes. and i thought yesterdays 47water/47air with nw 10kts was cold. constant paddling for shitty rip waves being the only saving grace. i am such a puss
nah man, if you pay attention my skinny ass is endlessly bitching on here about the water temps any time it dips below 50F. 47F is legit cold in my book.

Yikes! That is cold, Ruker. Your hands dealing with it ok?
not really! my old 3mm gloves felt like they were doing fk all to cut the chill. i've got some new 5mm's on the way though.

honestly between my knee still not being 100% and the cold water my motivation to surf is fairly low. it felt amazing to get a few turns in last session and i don't want to let myself get too out of shape but it's a busy time for me anyways and i've been kind of digging just focusing on other things that i've been neglecting this winter/spring. i've surfed a ton this year and it's been rad but i get so obsessive about it and it can kind of throw my life out of whack if i'm not careful. maybe some of y'all can relate.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
This stupid forum only makes me think about surfing way more than is acceptable/ sane, especially given how short my actual water time is each week. buncha enablers!

quickie at the reef mid morning. Looked slow and weak but actually got fun as the tide filled in a bit and some started to line up instead of burger out. 10 guys out; an older guy and my neighbor were the only ones I deferred to. Definitely a couple groms out who should’ve been in school.

Caught a bunch of WH-CH rights on SBD’s fancy DA Album. 1.5 quick shampoo coverups on the inside section. I don’t know if it’s the sturdy CF construction or what, but I have irrational confidence on this boar. LOL Anyone else with a DA or other CF boar feel this?? Just me?
at the same time, I feel self-conscious like everyone is looking at the fancy boar (with the JJF red spray over the black CF) when I’m paddling it- obviously no one GAF about me. Haha.
 
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Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,320
113
Oceanside, CA
2 sessions in crap conditions on the Twinsman so far. One day hh-oh sets, the other waist-shoulder, but
both days funky and mostly walled. First impressions are that it paddles pretty well around the lineup
and catches waves very well. Kind of an easy roll-in type of deal. Not much to go by, but feels fast and
very nimble in turns, but have to get used to the thick foam distribution in the middle paired with pretty
foiled out nose/tail. TA twins that came with it...might want more fin.
 

Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
412
954
93
Wave of my day. Double overhead and barreling if I didn't blow it. I was outrunning the barrel, mostly just trying to stay on my board it was so hollow and fast. Then the wave (to my ignorant brain) looked like it was going to close out. But I don't think that's the case, I think it was gearing up to go into another huge barrel. In the moment though I panicked, jumped off my board and took easily one of the top 10 worst beatings I've ever had in my life.

My friend watched the whole thing and gave me a bit of advice but I would pay so much good money to an experienced surfer who could have watched that and told me exactly what I needed to do. I'm basically winging it out there. I've never had a lesson in my life, which has worked out fine mostly but I'm at a point where I think some advice would really do me wonders.

So I rode an incredible wave, had a blast, but didn't do it anywhere the justice that a good surfer would have.
 

LifeOnMars

Michael Peterson status
Jan 14, 2020
3,164
2,106
113
My friend watched the whole thing and gave me a bit of advice but I would pay so much good money to an experienced surfer who could have watched that and told me exactly what I needed to do. I'm basically winging it out there. I've never had a lesson in my life, which has worked out fine mostly but I'm at a point where I think some advice would really do me wonders.

So I rode an incredible wave, had a blast, but didn't do it anywhere the justice that a good surfer would have.
it's all a part of the learning experience, a lesson isn't going to help you read waves. maybe video analysis but that's hard to come by. the more time you spend in the water in different conditions the better you'll be able to have a better grasp of what the wave will do, it's a non-thinkng type of skill and is more of a reaction to than anything.

maybe get one of those carver/smoothbrain skateboards that will help you practice technique, where to place your arms where to look and the muscle memory that comes up from standing sideways on a board and moving the whole body together in an efficient manner.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
It's been bad, really bad. Yesterday, first sunny afternoon in a while with minimal wind. I go down to check my local crap wave spot. It looks fun enough to go out, not a surfer around. At the vehicle, dealing with inside out wetsuit, I noticed something. Umm, errk, this is awkward, there's no boar in the car. :foreheadslap: Went home and scrubbed construction residue dust off of floors instead. So typical...

In other news, The Encinitas city council just awarded some surf school over $1 Million to run after school surfing and summer camp programs for kids. I hate it, because I'm jeolous of this cash flow.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular on the Tokoro Moonfish. Forerunners of the new south rolling in. Some shoulder to head high waves. Got a runner I had to race but when the wave slowed down I got on rail and carved thru a lump, I thought I was going to catch my rail but the boar just came around and back under me. Don’t know how smooth it looked but it felt good and I moved some water.

John one of the regulators got a new SD Flat Earth. He was riding it twin plus 1. And he was having issues figuring it out. I gave him some twin fin advice take off at an angle and draw out your bottom turn. After falling on 3 of the better waves he got a couple good ones in a row. Then he tells me I think if I angle in and draw out my bottom turn it works better. Nobody listens to Turtle.

After John got into his happy place he tells us. 5 ft leash is a little short. So I tell him oh that’s why you fell so much it’s not 5 feet anymore. Haha.
 

Sam_K

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 11, 2019
412
954
93
it's all a part of the learning experience, a lesson isn't going to help you read waves. maybe video analysis but that's hard to come by. the more time you spend in the water in different conditions the better you'll be able to have a better grasp of what the wave will do, it's a non-thinkng type of skill and is more of a reaction to than anything.

maybe get one of those carver/smoothbrain skateboards that will help you practice technique, where to place your arms where to look and the muscle memory that comes up from standing sideways on a board and moving the whole body together in an efficient manner.
I've thought about what you wrote and there is definitely validity. That idea of non-thinking reaction, that's pretty key and the problem is that my reaction right now takes me in the wrong direction.

What I think would get me ahead isn't coaching or video analysis so much as having someone who knows that wave very well, who is a great surfer, and who could explain what to do and how to do it. In the future I'll more actively seek out advice. I want to get these kinks sorted.
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
I've thought about what you wrote and there is definitely validity. That idea of non-thinking reaction, that's pretty key and the problem is that my reaction right now takes me in the wrong direction.

What I think would get me ahead isn't coaching or video analysis so much as having someone who knows that wave very well, who is a great surfer, and who could explain what to do and how to do it. In the future I'll more actively seek out advice. I want to get these kinks sorted.
Bro, you just need Raimana on the ski in front of the wave yelling at you when to pull in, stall, grab da rail, etc. !
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,273
113
San Diego, CA
Sorry for spamming the thread.

A leisurely 42’ on the dropping tide late morning. similar conditions to yest, maybe a touch bigger and cleaner without wind. First two spots were mobbed again, so settled for #3. Thought about paddling south to the next one but the lefts only looked marginally better but inconsistent.

Two bros on longboards out, proving @trifish point about positioning- they were toofar out, and I’d just scoop up the waves that rolled under them. Lefts we’re longer but slow and weaker. Could just about fit in 3 bside wraps before it fizzled out. Right was short but racey as it walled up for a run before closing out in 6” of water over grass covered reef.
Got about 20 lil WH dreamers. Pretty damn fun. :shaka: TGIF bros
Edit: Was cooking in a 2mil
 
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