***Official 2022 Community Surf Journal***

j_mac

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 16, 2020
418
1,567
93
My intercostals have been sore since last weekend making my surfing both painful and slower. After Friday mornings surf, I was hurting at work, couldn't even cough without wincing. A friend gave me a percussive massager for Christmas. I haven't used it yet. I worked those muscles with it and it helped a lot, along with some ibuprofen. Got 3.5hrs in Saturday and a non-stop 3hrs rip current merry-go-around today. I am exhausted. Fun waves waist to head high with nice shape, fun pumps and turns to the beach.
 

chilly1

Nep status
Jan 4, 2010
734
1,094
93
Had a rare opportunity for sunset sesh as I 99% dawn patrol, straight to OBSF for the maiden voyage on Twinsman. Warm offshores, gorgeous sunset forming, walking down steep dune I notice nice-looking midlenghth+ ahead, its Mark Andeini! A quick chat with this outstanding human, he introduces me to his brother and then asks about my board, then says check out my brother's board, basically a fantastic Andreini version Twinsman! Aside from conditions waves appeared shoulder high, underwhelming, yet basically, nobody was out and I had a new board stoke running so I ran and skipped all the way out. Caught a couple off the bat and the board felt foreign, kind of blocky (if that's a description), ugh! and then I remembered Racer1 ones post about letting his Twinsman just run and it clicked, I did and it did, 3rd wave it clicked in and long story short, I found a needle in a haystack peak that would form a forehand soft shoulder to cut back into a fun reform and this went on repeat for the last hour of light. I had a blast that was highlighted with a crescendo throw tail lipper and arching carve ride. As last light approached the sunset went to mesmerizing steller electric orange artistic swirls on steel blue and then, true to form, OB sent a little message, you aren't getting off that easy, I looked back and within 5 minutes I'd drifted way out to sea. Long paddle back in the dark. Still tho, gorgeous night and a good first new board sesh left me buzzing!
 

urchined

Nep status
Jul 20, 2019
763
1,386
93
NCSD, CA
Had a rare opportunity for sunset sesh as I 99% dawn patrol, straight to OBSF for the maiden voyage on Twinsman. Warm offshores, gorgeous sunset forming, walking down steep dune I notice nice-looking midlenghth+ ahead, its Mark Andeini! A quick chat with this outstanding human, he introduces me to his brother and then asks about my board, then says check out my brother's board, basically a fantastic Andreini version Twinsman! Aside from conditions waves appeared shoulder high, underwhelming, yet basically, nobody was out and I had a new board stoke running so I ran and skipped all the way out. Caught a couple off the bat and the board felt foreign, kind of blocky (if that's a description), ugh! and then I remembered Racer1 ones post about letting his Twinsman just run and it clicked, I did and it did, 3rd wave it clicked in and long story short, I found a needle in a haystack peak that would form a forehand soft shoulder to cut back into a fun reform and this went on repeat for the last hour of light. I had a blast that was highlighted with a crescendo throw tail lipper and arching carve ride. As last light approached the sunset went to mesmerizing steller electric orange artistic swirls on steel blue and then, true to form, OB sent a little message, you aren't getting off that easy, I looked back and within 5 minutes I'd drifted way out to sea. Long paddle back in the dark. Still tho, gorgeous night and a good first new board sesh left me buzzing!
Epic. Not everyday one randomly runs into a legendary shaper.
 
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sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,403
3,118
113
Fun little weekend down south. Going to name drop a spot: Surfed Grandview with the wifey Saturday and Sunday. It was pathetic, but glassy and fun Saturday morning. Sunday suuuucccckkkkeeeeddddd. Regardless, rode the 5'7" bar of soap to great joy while wifey surfed her Seaside-&-Beyond. Good times.
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,857
11,267
113
San Diego
I know a guy who flexes taking any wave he wants at that break, with a grin.

his wife makes this face as he’s flexing that she is aware her husband is stealing candy from the children and elderly.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,901
113
The Bar
Was hoping to rest that bruised rib all week. Ended up taking my wife golfing for her first time Friday and then went mushroom hunting Saturday. Even though no rain, there was enough moisture for a dozen black trumpets to re-emerge from foraging that same spot the previous week. You think surf spots are protected up here? Try mushroom spots. :roflmao:

Anyways, all that bending and scooping did not help the ribs and just the act of existing yesterday morning was painful. But if you're going to be hurting just sitting around, might as well do something fun while you hurt. Waves were kinda what I expected, chest high with some shoulder-high sets. Only problem was that it was incredibly inconsistent, inside/outside shifty, and there was just enough of a current that it was hard to tell how far out you were. No one really out either so lining up was difficult and I spent most of the session either too far out or just a little too far in. Oh and I realized immediately that duckdiving hurt, as did paddling, and even just getting to my feet. Beautiful day out but even an hour in the water was pushing it. Got only about 5 waves, didn't surf either of them particularly well, and bailed to live to fight another day.
 

paunch23

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2011
1,721
1,017
113
Rep. of Panama, La Barqueta, David, Chiriquí
had some knee-waist high soft waves today... guys on the longboards were pretty much taking all the waves from me.
I was starting to get kinda pissed:shameonyou: but , I know as soon as it gets any bigger they're not goin.
Then there's the issue of choosing what board to ride, which I guess is some kind of art form. my flare has lots of volume and I do the same crap I do on a shortboard so that's what I rode. but then I was like, huh, maybe Plasmic would have been better!
the thing is my plasmic is a hair smaller than the Flare, so it is a little harder to catch waves. The flare has more paddle power. Maybe tomorrow the Plasmic and see what's up...
 

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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,275
113
San Diego, CA
@paunch23 Yeah, selection can definitely be an issue as quiver grows, especially when you have boards that overlap range/conditions. I usually take 2 boards in the car with me every day (I never know when/if I will have a quick window to surf), that are just different enough to have a choice, depending how it looks.
—————
Late morning chest-shoulder high chunky wedges at reef 2 on 5’9 Mitsven quad fish. Bit shifty but a few exciting churning drops, that burgered out after first section. A handful of rights that I was able to connect to inside and get in 4-5 carves, roundies, and floaters. With its fishy outline, I instinctively tend to surf it like a TKF, but this boar always tries to tell me it can do more and be pushed harder than I think it can. Fun.
 
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MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,127
113
SD
Snuck in a sunset session. I took a call in the car and watched the waves. It looked really clean and fun but people were struggling. I only had an hour of light so I picked a peak that looked a bit walled but was Nearly empty and had plenty of waves coming through. I took a quantity over quality and got some fun racers, no turns but still fun. Beautiful evening. I was definitely feeling all the pigging out I’ve been doing.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Late morning on a Monday, sheet glass, shoulder high, long interval sets. Stocker. Paddled out to the higher tide/smaller wave peak. Waves were just the rightr size to not close out between the two peaks, stocked. Last time I wrote about skatepark conditions, I was wrong. Yesterday WAS the skatepark session. It's fun to get in the rythem on a wave, feet in the right spot, where you almost feel invincible on the shred factor, lol. Strange crowd of what seemed to be surflie noobs, no problems, no hassles.

Wait, what? Total chick day, must have been 25% of the crowd. When I first paddled, I sat on the south peak (like a dummy) and waited. Some goofy looking chick paddles by all "whoo hoo, yahhh". I'm wtf is up with her. As she passes, I notice she is a below the knee amputee. Fark, homey aint gonna mess with that, never had to. Later on, I'm checking the the "talent", one chick is kinda chunky, whatever's they come in all sizes. After the session, I see "chunkette" in clothes. She aint chunky, she's 6 months preggo!

Must be somethin in the air. Lady in the sundress looked 8 months preggers. I surfed the peak on the right of the image here.
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