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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

M

Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
2,260
1,467
113
Regional Vic, Australia
Senor Sopa said:
...
MR J - From what I see, you have to much weight on the front foot. This causes "rail dig", and you don't get the drive you want. More legs, less upper body. If you can get your butt in the wave on your bottom turn, you will feel the speed!
..
Click to expand...
I think you are absolutely right, what it feels like is happening now is that concentrating on the arm and shoulder rotation and a more forward pointing back knee is causing me to lose my board feel. Previously I used to wiggle my way down the line using board feel even foot pressure and no drive. Now I am see-sawing between too much weight on the back foot and having to compensate with too much on the front. Then there is getting my butt down to the wave - the instructor was saying something to that effect when I was on the surf skate.

Its feeling all a bit alien at the moment.

This is a frame grab from the turn prior to having too much weight on the front. Too much weight on the back.

M2_SS3_TRACK_VIDEO_2021_10_17_055335-2_Trim_Moment.jpg
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,872
21,199
113
The Bar
Was still fatigued from the marathon paddling on Saturday but dragged myself out yesterday morning since I knew it would still be good. Little drizzly and gloomy but swell had dropped a few feet; only about shoulder to head high with maybe an overhead set or two with light/variable winds. Paddle out still looked like tough but this other guy (apparently a neighbor; cool) and I spotted what looked like an intermittent channel. Timed it much better than anticipated as a long lull hit right then and it was a hair-dry paddle out + a first wave; nice change from yesterday. Saw nolibos out there, who I have been surfing with all last year without knowing he was an erBBer. Too funny; small world indeed.

Traded waves with a few others for a couple hours. Misread one of the better rights which bowled instead of reeled and was out of position; mild bitterness at that but plenty of waves and generally pretty playful without any major brutal return paddles. Right before paddling out, noticed a crack in the glass on my 6'6" stretching by stringer to rail just in front of the fins; glass still seemingly intact though and no further harm. Really fun session with a lot less closeouts than day before; love those kind of days.
 
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sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,932
11,399
113
San Diego
stars aligned for me this weekend.

lined up sets and a manageable crew with mild regulation as warranted. good rotation at the peak and critiquing each other’s turns on the paddle back out, making small adjustments between the waves (maybe mr_j coaching posts got in my head).

I can’t remember the last time it was this consistent 2 days in a row that I was able to meaningfully test different fins in the board.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,994
17,408
113
San Diego, CA
Work and schedule have been crazy this month. Even less time to surf. After having to work all day Sat, got skunked when I tried to sneak in a quick sunset rinse-off. Dropping swell and high tide combined for short waves barely breaking on the inside reef #4 and sorta chugging along for 20yds before hitting the rebounding backwash from the cobblestones. Caught maybe 3-4 short waves where I pretty much crouched down to maintain enough inertia to stay with the weakass wave before the backwash blew me up. Should thrown my hands over my head like they always do in the hipster videos! LOL.
6'7 Townsend paddled and caught the micro waves like a glider tho. Plus it was a beautiful warm sunny evening and I haven't seen the sunset from the lineup in months. Nice little recharge.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,668
23,408
113
Tower 13
oeste858 said:
Work and schedule have been crazy this month. Even less time to surf. After having to work all day Sat, got skunked when I tried to sneak in a quick sunset rinse-off. Dropping swell and high tide combined for short waves barely breaking on the inside reef #4 and sorta chugging along for 20yds before hitting the rebounding backwash from the cobblestones. Caught maybe 3-4 short waves where I pretty much crouched down to maintain enough inertia to stay with the weakass wave before the backwash blew me up. Should thrown my hands over my head like they always do in the hipster videos! LOL.
6'7 Townsend paddled and caught the micro waves like a glider tho. Plus it was a beautiful warm sunny evening and I haven't seen the sunset from the lineup in months. Nice little recharge.
Click to expand...
quit revealing spots


:roflmao:
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,093
22,887
113
PNW
afternoon sesh at the local. kind of lumpy n bumpy but some fun ones to be had. the plasmic felt pretty good in the variable conditions. doesn't feel like a full on groveler but carries speed and connects sections well. got quite a bit of ride time and i felt like i started to get a feel for it. no issues going backside, feels rather good actually.

plenty of size and consistent waves. sunny and calm. hard to complain. other than about the fact that it's about to rain for a week straight.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,994
17,408
113
San Diego, CA
Aruka said:
. doesn't feel like a full on groveler but carries speed and connects sections well. got quite a bit of ride time and i felt like i started to get a feel for it. no issues going backside, feels rather good actually.
Click to expand...
I was pleasantly surprised by how good it is backside (Probably the best of my twins going left) and its range of conditions.. Glad you're liking the boar so far.
:shaka:
Now I want a thinner/narrower EAST version...
 
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000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,108
7,324
113
was pretty good but still frustrating with mostly closeouts. was so hard to be in the right spot, but it did happen enough to get some tubes and hits
3 people paddled out -not close to me, but i was pissed anyhow cuz they were getting better waves that i was. suddenly tide got too high and it sucked
 
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C

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,816
6,141
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
man ill take covid kook crowds over surf school crowds any day. maybe they're from a high school, who knows - buts its the same kids every day. theres a ton of them and some of them can actually surf.

Waist to chest-ish this morning, clean and peaky but a little soft in SLA. Paddled out in the dark - def wasnt the first one out by any means. So crowded , barely got my fill of waves before calling it after an hour. Couple little turns here and there on the flare - one cutback that felt better than the ones Ive been doing lately where i really dug in to that last little swoop - ill take it. Water felt like it warmed up a tiny bit from the weekend, and it was crisp, clear fall morning with classic socal conditions. Cant fuck with that before strapping in for work for the day...but yea fuck the groms!
 
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Oceanslide

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,703
2,326
113
Oceanside, CA
CutnSnip said:
man ill take covid kook crowds over surf school crowds any day. maybe they're from a high school, who knows - buts its the same kids every day. theres a ton of them and some of them can actually surf.
Click to expand...
I hate surfing afternoons. The past 5 surfs locally where the winds haven't completely wrecked conditions
and I've had a window to surf, I paddle out to an uncrowded lineup to enjoy the water and waves, and not one,
but 2 or 3 different surf coach heats have paddled out and almost completely wrecked any enjoyment of a session.
Fark, time change, please!
 
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T

Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
355
848
93
Tried to go for a quick lunchbreak surf at the beachbreak. the wind was threatening to pick up from the S, and so did right as I got out there. did one half decent turn and called it.

At least there doesn't seem to be surf schools/surf PE here! I'm a little surprised there isn't the latter now that I think about it.
 
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santacruzin

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
8,950
9,966
113
valley purgatory
Fun morning. trading waves at second. super fun. Good hour of a nice rotation.
Little wonky had to catch them outside then work to the reform.

About halfway through my session I caught a nice one and this local girl ROASTED me. I could have pushed her over but I was in shock.
She had caught the last good one and literally shoulder hopped me to burn me :roflmao: .
Couple old guys said I should have shoved her , guess she does it to them all the time!! I cant do that to a girl ,guess I am a pussy

I call her on it and she says" so what I wanted the wave,you dont understand"
Wasn't sure what to do so I started telling her she looked like she was bogging on her bottom turn and a little weak off the top.
She got really really really upset!!!
"oh you are going to talk sh!t to a girl??" Told her you cant burn people then pull the girl card.


Then I roasted her on a good one and went in :)
 
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R

rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,831
113
54
santacruzin said:
Fun morning. Suthree of trading waves at second. super fun. Good hour of a nice rotation.
Little wonk yhad to catch them outside then work to the reform.

About hafl through my session I caught a nice one and this local girl ROASTED me. I could have pushed her over but I was in shock.
She had caught the last good one and literally shoulder hopped me to burn me :roflmao: .
Couple old guys said I should have shoved her , guess she does it to them all the time!! I cant do that to a girl ,guess I am a pussy

I call her on it and she says" so what I wanted the wave,you dont understand"
Wasn't sure what to do so I started telling her she looked like she was bogging on her bottom turn and a little weak off the top.
She got really really really upset!!!
"oh you are going to talk sh!t to a girl??" Told her you cant burn people then pull the girl card.


Then I roasted her on a good one and went in :)
Click to expand...
Sounds like you found a future wife:violin:
 
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