Guess who got an Invite to "The Surfer Poll" ?

Jul 4, 2021
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surfwords

Dec 31, 2015

(quote=surfwordz )Howzit Dale, brah?!! :)

Mahalo yeah for thinking about me brah. Im really honored to know you, not just for your accomplishments, but for how humble you are. You are one for real kine legend that I will never forget.

I still here, but only lurk havnt posted since my last post like over a year ago. I just dont have the energy to type anymore. I had a rough year last year I came really close to losing my daughter to drugs.

I had to put her in rehab off island, but she made it and is now clean and healhy again (just made one year sober in Oct. }.It was so bad I cant even fuckn explain man.

It just about killed me cause i couldnt eat or sleep not knowing how my daughter was {she ran away from home and I had amber alerts and all the police looking for her it was crazy}.

Every day not knowing where she was was torture. After what she went thru, its truely a miracle, brah..I know it sounds corny but, there really is a such thing as angels, man'

My healht went pretty bad for a while and I actually had to get a few gnarly surgeries. I even almost died the first night because I lost over two pints of blood in the middle of the night {small little filipino nurse yelling at my cuz I stay covered in blood and the mattress soaked thru dripping on the floor and sh!t, you know?}

Brah, I swear, I even had one Out of body experience too I shirt you not. It was so profound I cant even explain, but it was for sure a place I would never ever want to be..super cold and just pure silence but I could see everything going on as the doctors gave me a blood transfusion. It was for sure the eeriest sh!t ive ever been thru by far, brah :(

After about two weeks in the hospital they told me they found out that it was indeed cancer like I had feared and that they had to operate and cut me again {already was missing a slab of skin that was 5 x 6 inches and was over an inch thick. After the second cut I thought I was never gonna heal, It was a nightmare, brah I cant even explan.

Needless to say I spent most of my summer in the hospital here, so I had alot of time to rest and lurk the erBB. I watch that whole thread where PPK asked the mods to delete his account and it just tore me apart serious kine.

Besides Nep, PPK is the only man to ever make me cry {when he wen get Medivac to Oahu awhile ago}. :(

Seeing all his stuff get erased years and years of knowledge he shared with us haoles and we took it for granted I vowed never to post on the internet ever again and other than a few instagram stuff, I still havent been typing anything (this is the first PM ive recieved in years ).

It's not just that though, For real, Dale I love you all on the erBB and I wish I could post everytime, but it just takes too much to put it all down on paper, let alone type it on my wifes messed up computer {its all in Japanese }.

Ive got the craziest stories too. Since I got out of the hospital and all the scars and plastic surgerly healed up I started surfing again really gotta thank Marzo for coming and taking me surfing and for getting me back to feeling normal again I documented my operations {eunice would love to see all the pics Im sure :) }.

We travle the island every day surfing the craziest mysto spots {scored unreal perfect surf yesterday} that are so gnarly that Ive been humbled a bunch and even a almost near death experiences chasing hurricanes a while back before he left for OZ.

We surf together so much that I end up driving in circles when hes not there. He got back in Oct. and we still go everyday. In fact he's coming by to get me in the morning its gonna be going off somewhere guaranz, cuz.

Anyways, thank you again Dale for even giving a sh!rt. To be able to call people like you and Peter and so many others here friend {Ho Pedro, brah! ) is so special it means so much to me Im just a nobody neverhasbeen, but after what I been thru and then also reading about Festus Porkymeyer, and Mr.Bill, I promise to live life for all the ones out there that didnt get the chance my family and I did. Every day is so special now, even more so if get waves. Gotta live while still can, yeah?


I'll be back someday I promise brah. If you ever can come out here Id drop whatevrz to cruise with you, take you go surf, lidat! You gotta come here though. I prolly not going mainland ever, so you gotta come here ok?

P,S., Feel free to share this with the erBB. I dont do the facebook thing and this took me a really long time to type and dont think I could do it all again, ok..




Much Love and Aloha from Larry :)


(if you ever come Maui, heres my cell number Dale, 808-***-**** }

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:wave2: raise your hand if you think the erBB needs to 'gift' surfwordz a new computer? :wave2: