I went with 9 other guys in October 2019 and rented the place for the day. Started out 70 degrees and gorgeous. Around 1pm it got stormy, windy and cold AF. 3/2 to start. 4/3 w booties, gloves and hood to end as the air dipped to 40 degrees. Wind was offshore all day on the rights and onshore on the lefts.
We rotated between the "Lowers" wave (expert i guess?)
The Air wave (meh for me)
and the Slab (fun) all day - 5 in the water at a time - split up 5 regulars/ 5 goofies.
Brought boards but looked like they had a good selection of rentals. Slaters/ DHD's, and a few Lost. I rode my Flare for the most part and IMO it was perfect for the wave.
Figuring out where to sit and stay in position is really tricky to learn. Theres a sweet spot thats different for each wave style but you'll be being pushed away from it because of the current and turbulence of the prior wave. Getting into position if your 2nd or third up is a real bitch. If youre in the spot though, barely need to paddle. If not - youll blow waves for sure. A few of the guys had been before and dialed us in. W/o them woulda taken alot longer to figure it out.
The Lowers wave will offer up a little head dip barrel on the inside of the rights and lefts but mostly youre just trying to stay in the very tight pocket. The wave is steep so if your not in the pocket - itll buck you off.
The Air wave is just pump, pump, pump - flail miserably in my experience. Resorted to just trying wallet dropper layback hacks instead of trying to get in the air.
The slab is a quick little thrill. Novelty really. After 2 or 3 youll be over it.
Things I wasnt prepared for.
Its shallow! If you fall in the slab - were talking shin deep - concrete. Split my elbow wide open on my first attempt. Coming into the inside section is the same..if you fall here your basically slip sliding on concrete like a baseball player into homebase.
Going backside is really really tricky.
Underwater sounds like a horror movie with all the mechanics doing their thing.
Its just weird - sort of feels like a wave - but then doesnt. Has alot of punch for a small setup. Lots and lots of current in that pool and if you fall on the first wave of the set, your basically going to be right in the way of waves 2 and 3 and dodging your homies.
All that said - I had fun. Wouldnt go out of my way to go back per se and the whole day was way to much surfing. like a hundred waves if not more, but if I was in the area - id book a sesh for sure.
