Board test for the every day surfer

freeride76

Michael Peterson status
Dec 31, 2009
3,399
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Lennox Head.
What's interesting though is the dominant surfer at Margarets (by far) is on a relatively short board.

He's riding a 6'2 on 15ft + faces and is completely destroying it.

Wouldn't that be an endorsement for shorter boards?
mitigating circumstances.
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,944
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San Diego
Seems like someone smart *cough* (@Havoc) could formalize these design principles and maybe even write a set of equations like John Boyd did with aircraft design after he figured out what worked being a fighter pilot and fighter weapons school instructor.
fxd. at least I think thats what was going on with the 7 manta’s
 

Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
2,260
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Regional Vic, Australia
What?? 5’8 would be a friggin giant on erBB! Duus talking about 25L boars... and all I can think is: elf shoes!
Yes, it is a sad state of affairs when erBB members on 30L are made to feel obese, 5' 7" undernourished specimens such as myself on 22.5L are labelled elves and everyone else under 6' is made to feel like a dwarf.

I'm a left wing bloke, so at the risk of alienating myself from erBB who sit to the right of Attila the Hun I'm going to say we should learn to tolerate embrace diversity. Accept that we come in all shapes and sizes and not mind if the tester is built different.
 

Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
2,260
1,467
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Regional Vic, Australia
can't believe after skimming that vid of Salas and then watching some of Broccoli that people out there think Salad is anywhere near Broccoli in ability.
despite what I said in my last post, I'm not going to stop arguing :D

You are deceiving yourself - by skimming vids of Salas and Broccoli you are missing the technicalities. Yes Kale rips, throws his weight into bottom turns deep in the trough and follows up with a good vertical lip hack. However apart from that, double pumps and the basic cutback complete his repertoire.

Salas on the other hand demonstrates cutbacks with foam climbs a high percentage of full wraps, tail slide off the lips, board slide off the lips and some good floaters. Plus some combination moves such as end section frontside foam climb into cutback foam climb.
 

griffinsurfboard

Duke status
Oct 31, 2004
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Low resistance - not enough

Eliminates the ability to go out into the green , lay into a cutback and accelerate back into the lip or whitewash

Pros with their extreme skil can use their leg skills to control the overturning effect .

Short flicky and quick , close to the pocket is what you get
 

Rlacey111

Nep status
Feb 14, 2021
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Yes, it is a sad state of affairs when erBB members on 30L are made to feel obese, 5' 7" undernourished specimens such as myself on 22.5L are labelled elves and everyone else under 6' is made to feel like a dwarf.

I'm a left wing bloke, so at the risk of alienating myself from erBB who sit to the right of Attila the Hun I'm going to say we should learn to tolerate embrace diversity. Accept that we come in all shapes and sizes and not mind if the tester is built different.
Says the elf
 

estreet

Miki Dora status
Feb 19, 2021
5,033
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Southern Cali
Semantics. Same difference.
watch how much compression/energy JJF is putting into these bottom turns, so if you mean finding the power in the wave and your body, sure, otherwise it’s clear where the power is.


I was just bust’n balls, as they say.
 
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ehiunno

OTF status
Dec 27, 2019
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Some thoughts:

- JJ is on a 6'2 Ghost, which is a "longer" board in the sense that it's similar to a 6'6 or so with the front cut off and reshaped. Then again, the "average" surfer would probably need a proper semi-gun or bigger out there. The fitness and wave reading ability of the CT guys, especially the really elite ones, cannot be understated.

- Maybe the comparison of Kale to Salsa is silly since they surf so differently and such different waves. Kale is a very good surfer. I am mostly trying to say that I find Kale's surfing relatable, much more so than most pro surfers. To the original point, I think it's fair to call this a board test for the "everday" surfer, as long as your definition of "everyday" surfer is one who is competent, experienced and wants to try to rip.

- I liked the video about trying a longer board and I agree with the premise it would probably help my surfing to jump on a 6'0 or 6'1 and get better at using the rail. I don't think the places I surf are really conducive to this though and it would probably replace my ghost in terms of wave range, so it doesn't seem worth the investment. If I were going to indo or HI or something for an extended trip, I'd consider it.

- I loved the video with Zouvi. His description of the 72 makes it seem like it would be easy for an "everyday" surfer to surf well in okay to good waves and this seems to be backed up by Kales experience in both the ocean and the pool. I was really impressed with how well that board went in the pool when he struggled on other rippy boards there. I don't exactly have a hole in my quiver where this board would go but this has definitely got me considering one. The stonk 5'10 x 19 x 2.5 at 28.2 L looks like it would be great.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,002
17,431
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San Diego, CA
Has anyone seen Yuri’s latest vids? :ROFLMAO:
He’s doing lipdubs and sh*t. WTF? I think he may be losing his mind during this flat spell. Someone in his area should probably check in on him! #nationaltreasure

 
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MrSteve

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 1, 2015
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Has anyone seen Yuri’s latest vids? :ROFLMAO:
He’s doing lipdubs and sh*t. WTF? I think he may be losing his mind during this flat spell. Someone in his area should probably check in on him! #nationaltreasure

Thats Boardporn's boy. I think theyre pretty much neighbors
 
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ehiunno

OTF status
Dec 27, 2019
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Has anyone seen Yuri’s latest vids? :ROFLMAO:
He’s doing lipdubs and sh*t. WTF? I think he may be losing his mind during this flat spell. Someone in his area should probably check in on him! #nationaltreasure

Lol

Honestly I feel like it's been a wierdly good summer here? Flat most of the time yes but more than a few random fun days.

I try to avoid people as much as possible but I do run into Yuri and Boardporn occasionally. Never spoken to Yuri but Ron seems like a nice dude, said he lurks on here a bit.
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,215
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33.8N - 118.4W
Mr Lacey, you overgrown adult sized human, I bet you have to do a lot of groveling :nana:

The surf is always pumping in Elfland :waving:

:jamon:
I had a friend who was small. When he was about 12 he was really small but precociously talented. Every wave he was on looked like Sunset Beach's West Peak.