Volume Forward Performance Boards

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,099
9,146
113
Central California
That settles that!

It's not too often you have scientific testing to prove surfboard opinions right or wrong.

My theory about rearward volume was shot out of the water, but so are the claims that volume forward boards are better paddlers.

At least i can take solace in that :cool:

:ROFLMAO:
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,056
4,563
113
Innzid
That settles that!

It's not too often you have scientific testing to prove surfboard opinions right or wrong.

My theory about rearward volume was shot out of the water, but so are the claims that volume forward boards are better paddlers.

At least i can take solace in that :cool:

:ROFLMAO:
No! You were still WRONG!! :)
 
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feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,126
113
That settles that!

It's not too often you have scientific testing to prove surfboard opinions right or wrong.

My theory about rearward volume was shot out of the water, but so are the claims that volume forward boards are better paddlers.

At least i can take solace in that :cool:

:ROFLMAO:
I don’t know. The study used the same board and the three different max volume points are within 2 inches. That does not seem like a significant difference. Not sure how this would compare between the Driver and the Ghost. I think the difference in volume distribution between those two boards is more than 2 inches or even a McCoy Nugget where a lot of volume is located in the tail section.
 

j_mac

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 16, 2020
420
1,583
93
This is from their summary - still lots of fun questions to discuss

" These data indicate that changes in surfboard foil have little effect on the mechanics and efficiency of paddling. Further, recreational surfers demonstrated the ability to fine-tune their prone position to achieve a consistent paddling performance for boards with different foils. While this study addresses an important question in regard to the center of volume in surfboard design, many additional questions remain. These include, for example, the effects of altering the center of volume along a mediolateral axis, altering the center of volume for boards of larger size, and changes in the gross dimensions of a surfboard (to alter waterline length and Froude number) on a surfer’s paddling performance. Other questions include the effects of foil on
wave catching and riding performance, as well as differences in board density that can be achieved with different types of material and design. Future investigation into these questions will help to improve human performance in the sport of surfing and may help to encourage greater participation in the sport among youth and older recreational athletes."
 

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,126
113
This is from their summary - still lots of fun questions to discuss

" These data indicate that changes in surfboard foil have little effect on the mechanics and efficiency of paddling. Further, recreational surfers demonstrated the ability to fine-tune their prone position to achieve a consistent paddling performance for boards with different foils. While this study addresses an important question in regard to the center of volume in surfboard design, many additional questions remain. These include, for example, the effects of altering the center of volume along a mediolateral axis, altering the center of volume for boards of larger size, and changes in the gross dimensions of a surfboard (to alter waterline length and Froude number) on a surfer’s paddling performance. Other questions include the effects of foil on
wave catching and riding performance, as well as differences in board density that can be achieved with different types of material and design. Future investigation into these questions will help to improve human performance in the sport of surfing and may help to encourage greater participation in the sport among youth and older recreational athletes."
The conclusion is moving volume in a range of two inches on the same exact board playing in a pool has no effect. And it raises more questions than it answers.
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,099
9,146
113
Central California
I don’t know. The study used the same board and the three different max volume points are within 2 inches. That does not seem like a significant difference. Not sure how this would compare between the Driver and the Ghost. I think the difference in volume distribution between those two boards is more than 2 inches or even a McCoy Nugget where a lot of volume is located in the tail section.
It was two inches up from center and two inches back from center, if I read it correctly. Total spread of 4 inches.

That seems pretty close to real world widepoint placement on hp boards, right?

McCoy Nugget.....definitely way further back, but not within the scope of a modern hp surfboard, which is what was compared in this particular test. Would love for them to do a paddling test on a Nugget though.
 

freeride76

Michael Peterson status
Dec 31, 2009
3,399
4,248
113
Lennox Head.
Lohena, I just wanted to say thank you for pointing me in the direction of Rob Case. My shoulders have been totally fcuked, with intense bursitis pain in both, and my paddling has always been crap to average.

I watched all the videos (just the free stuff, haha) and three days ago made a massive effort to change my technique. Huge difference! My shoulder pain is all but gone, I paddle faster. And now I feel a pleasant soreness in my lats and pecs, meaning I'm using the bigger muscles, rather than punishing my ageing rotator cuff muscles.

Very grateful.
who's this Rob Case Maz?
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,056
4,563
113
Innzid
Hey FR76.
Here's his website. It's not very good, and you have to dig around for the free-of-charge bits. Plenty of them, though.

Youtube channel:

Super short precis of my experience/gain:
- Don't overreach, but let hand slice cleanly into water closer to your head.
- Keep elbow high on entry.
- Concentrate on moving hand/arm backwards horizontally, making sure there's no downward force (lifts nose out of water on takeoff - you don't catch the wave).
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,009
4,503
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
Did a bit of sleuthing as well and took away what you have listed and would also add he also advocates:
Keep the head and chest down.
I've come across a Youtube video by another "surf trainer" who was pushing the opposite.
Having a bad lower back I had found boards that allowed me to keep my chest down easier through their design helped me.
 

kool-aid

Michael Peterson status
Aug 28, 2003
3,027
2,618
113
San Francisco
Hey FR76.
Here's his website. It's not very good, and you have to dig around for the free-of-charge bits. Plenty of them, though.

Youtube channel:

Super short precis of my experience/gain:
- Don't overreach, but let hand slice cleanly into water closer to your head.
- Keep elbow high on entry.
- Concentrate on moving hand/arm backwards horizontally, making sure there's no downward force (lifts nose out of water on takeoff - you don't catch the wave).
wow this is good stuff. thanks for the find.
 

urchined

Nep status
Jul 20, 2019
770
1,404
93
NCSD, CA
Did a bit of sleuthing as well and took away what you have listed and would also add he also advocates:
Keep the head and chest down.
I've come across a Youtube video by another "surf trainer" who was pushing the opposite.
Having a bad lower back I had found boards that allowed me to keep my chest down easier through their design helped me.
What kind of board design assist in paddling chest down? I’ve got a long term bad lower back too.
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,009
4,503
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
What kind of board design assist in paddling chest down? I’ve got a long term bad lower back too.
You're probably not going to like the answer but at 6'1" I have found boards that are roughly shorter than my height in length tend to have me paddling with my back more arched. So longer than my height with mid lengths being my preference.
Here's that vid (at the 4 min mark) where he starts talking about an arched back.
 

potato-nator

Phil Edwards status
Nov 10, 2015
6,066
1,283
113
back when dinos roamed the earth a good paddler became such from
swimming workouts.

One of the neat things about being a good swimmer thus paddler is its not
a talent competing riders immediately pick up on.

this can create an advantage.
 
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