*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[silentbutdeadly]

same waves different spot this morning. one good right, one good left. threw buckets like pancho sullivan.... if he was fat and didn't surf as good.


I think the True ames KC fins are too stiff for the fuse. I think they'll go well in my six too though.

 

[20W-50 and blood]

I went for a paddle on the 14 footer. Mistake was two hotdogs, two bags of chips and 8 oreos. I made a mile and a half and the stomach said let's go home.

Caught a couple of waves on it. It will catch anything, but absolutely impossible to steer.

no shame in hitting the eject button and feeding the fish!

 

[need 4 speed]

Couple fun 1-3' softies in redrider's neighborhood, a little late probably better on the lower /tide push
made a couple good turns twinzer working well

 

[teeroi]

Paddled the green X2 out in the dark and got two fun ones back to back. Waves were HH plus and good direction. The crowd filled in pretty fast and I sat too far out for a lot of the session. Best wave I didn’t make it out of a drainer. Got in late and deep, bottom turned and pulled in. Saw an opening and drove down to exit but it hucked again and I got lipped and dragged underwater for a good bit. Body surfing under the wave thinking I’m not coming up I should fight. When I finally popped up I yelled F*ck I suck. I asked one of the guys that saw the ride what I did wrong. He said you rode it like it was going to be a quick one section tube but it sectioned off and kept going. Said I should’ve held my line higher instead of looking to doggy door it.

Got dropped in on by a longboarder later in the sesh. His board made a nice section and I hit it as he was kicking out. Bottom turned and hit it again. Rode the wave all the way in. It was a good wave with two good top turns so I was going to let it slide since he kicked out. But they’re never going to learn unless they’re told so I started paddling toward him. It looked like he was paddling to Big Bowl or the channel. When he saw me paddling toward him he paddles wide and faster. I sat up and yelled don’t f*cking do that. He said sorry I’m going in.

I paddled back to the lineup and asked if you guys sounded him. Dean goes no but he knew he f*cked up. When he looked back and saw you he kicked out and said oh sh*t. Jordan said he saw him trying to shoulder hop me and one of the uncles earlier and he told the guy I wouldn’t do that if I were you. Haha.

 

[Brsnstein]

I got suckered into going to upper this morning. Fought the crowd for a couple waves before paddling north and getting mostly lefts for the rest of the session. The leftover west wind swell was sectioning them off so most waves were one, maybe two hitters

 

[Oceanslide]

Pretty awful waves with rips and weird backwash, but actually had fun on the new to me ThickLizzy. Clicked with it much more quickly in every way than the vBowls despite the shite waves. Look forward to cleaner waves.

 

[Maz]

Pretty damn good weekend.

4 surfs, all solid OH, 3 on the Ghost and one on the 6'10 DS. Crowd incl myself: 1, 3, 1, 3. Meanwhile, the local beachbreak was a complete zoo.

 

[retodd]

Note to self , go surf with Maz one day

 

[Maz]

Note to self , go surf with Maz one day

Requirements:
- 2 week quarantine on arrival
- Must like very rocky reefs

 

[CutnSnip]

Gave it my all this weekend but nothing was coming together either Saturday or Today.. Me, the waves, the tides,the crowds all working against a satisfying session. Spot this morning looked great from the bluff - got down there and waves would jack up to a nice peak and back off just as quickly - eventually dribbling into the sand. Got maybe one that lasted past a quick drop.

Crossing my fingers this little NW coming later this week makes some fun waves close to home.

 

[ZeeHawk]

Wind was blowing and there was a bit of a south swell so made a trip to the south shore to check out a point break. It was going to be blowing onshore about 15 kts but the shape is so good it's hard to pass up. When I showed up the swell was a little smaller than I thought for that spot and it was running pretty close to the rocks. Went to another spot that faces the swell a little better and was breaking about head high and over, bumpy and backwashy, ending on a cobble beach. Pretty gnarly but still thought the Mase Ho conditions could be fun. LOTS of power on the sets yet thanks to the Ghost felt confident through it all. Got some turns in here and there and the warm water and sun made it extra fun. Can't wait to get back there when conditions line up a little better!

 

[sdsurfrat]

1-1-2020 saw me pick up Friend #1 at 5:30 AM to head south to some place north of Carmel.

Size looked pretty big, buoys 10-12 ft at 20+ seconds.

like on a golf course?

 

[retodd]

Requirements:
- 2 week quarantine on arrival
- Must like very rocky reefs

Its gonna be a while

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Note to self , go surf with Maz one day

no crap

 

[Senor Sopa]

Same surf time, same surf channel as Saturday. Waves wat Cracks were same size, but better. More power and better shape. Got to throw some spray. It's amazing how just a slight increase in wave quality can make you surf 10,000% better. One wave presented an opportunity to smash the end section. I channeled my inner Teeroi, coiled up, and smacked that lip. LOL, I pearled so hard I came up with two oysters and a happy ending.

The noon high tide was hitting the cliff, not much beach. Lot's of wet towels, haha. When I came in, a guy flagged me down. He told me we was telling his two kids to pay attention to what I was doing because "that guy seems to really know how to be in the right place to catch the waves". I told him my secret was the condo on the bluff with the red umbrella. I should've shut up, but I also told him my secret lineup marker for Boulders too.

While suiting up in the lot, I was talking to an older og guy, he told me about the old trailer park where the new hotel is being built, and the psychedelic restaurant where the parking lot is now. He said he likes the spot because "it's a vibe free zone". I laughed and told him I'm one of those vibers, but I come here to relax and practice vibe free surfing. Turns out we know lots of the same people. After the session, a different guy was getting ready (interestingly the same parking spot as the other guy), I told him the waves were better than yesterday, he was fired up!

 

[silentbutdeadly]

micro zipppers on the fuse. too bad it wasn't more consistent.

mayhems back in the board and they go better.

 

[sdsurfrat]

While suiting up in the lot, I was talking to an older og guy, he told me about the old trailer park where the new hotel is being built

Hmm.. the new GIANT hotel which required massive excavation of the bluff, and perhaps some blasting with explosives, (tnt = pure speculation on my part) all about 150 -200 yards away from where the bluff collapsed (R.I.P.) at Grandview...
It's just a theory but pass it along to the family if anyone knows them. Worth looking into, imo.

 

[teeroi]

Paddled the Tokoro HP Twin out in the dark. It’s been a project trying to figure out which fins to ride. I ordered the NVS Album Facination to try and I put them n the little trailer too. Got a wave in the dark that I didn’t think I was going to catch. Board kept up with the wave but the turns felt stiff. The waves were high tide and shoulder high and it was pumping in the dark. As soon as the sun came up it went lully. Got a couple of meh waves then waited forever and got a nugget. If I had more confidence in the board I would’ve knived the takeoff into the tube. But I made the drop l, stalled and got a quick cover up. Did a turn but it felt stiff then it slid a little.

Ended up paddling back out with Kerry Tokoro. He was just sitting way inside with his son killing it on anew design he’s working on. It was a short round nose quad with a bat tail. I told Sage, Kerry’s kid if he wants a set sit outside and anyone on a Tokoro or Vesso will let you go. The two of them laughed but just stayed inside.

Took the trailer off and wanted to try the board as just a twin. Got a set and didn’t make it. My brother in law was sitting inside and told me I was surfing it like a thruster. Loading up my bottom turn and the board wasn’t projecting. Told me to let the fins and board do the work. I sat inside and while waiting for a wave he kept coaching me up on the twinny. Got a double up that rolled under the guys outside and I let the board build up speed and it worked. Hit the first section and got fins over. Did a carve and went vert on the closeout but poked. If I didn’t fall I was going to go in. Paddled back out and got a couple ok ones the got another double that I made the last turn and proned in.

 

[oeste858]

that's frustrating trying to dial in fins on a board that's not quite clicking. probably good advice by your BIL. Funny, I have the opposite issue after riding twins so much the past few years. When I do get on a thruster, things are too drawn out instead of vertical/top-to-bottom, and I sometimes get stuck in no-man's land without the speed of a twin.

Managed to sneak in a few waves late morning before full high tide at local reef. 3 guys out when I paddled out, 2 went in, so was just 2 of us for an hour. Fat waist-chest high lefts with occasional crumbly section to race. Tomo X-wing groveler doing just what I ordered it for in these soft waves. Holds on steeper late drops, and turns so whippy. One b-side rocknroll floater felt particularly good. So far so good. Tried the grey/black Muchacho blackstix thruster fins and didn't lose much speed from quad. These fins were a total impulse buy when I needed a futures thruster set a couple yrs ago, and I am surprised how much I like them (bit more raked than I usually prefer); don't think I've had a bad session on them yet. They always feel like a hot knife through butter: lively yet very smooth. I like them in smaller or softer waves up to head high, where you want the fins to do a bit of the work.

 

[teeroi]

that's frustrating trying to dial in fins on a board that's not quite clicking. probably good advice by your BIL. Funny, I have the opposite issue after riding twins so much the past few years. When I do get on a thruster, things are too drawn out instead of vertical/top-to-bottom, and I sometimes get stuck in no-man's land without the speed of a twin.

I’ve gotten too many different boards at once. They all ride a little different so I’m confused. Haha.

I’m so used to riding thrusters. When I can’t find the gas peddle on a thruster the fix is usually pop in some bigger fins and push harder off the bottom and pump harder. Muscle everything. But with this board it seems to be let the board do some of the work and focus on technique and timing. My BIL suggested I surf a little lower in my stance too.

I gave my friend Yuko some swim fins I haven’t been using cause she broke hers. She was offering to pay for them but I told her just don’t take any pics of Gregg. She swam out this morning and took a few pics of the crew.

Here’s the only one she got of me. I think she was too far inside. And one of Jeannie burning one of the morning crew.