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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Thick smoke from the inland wildfires has settled along the coast. There was a hot breeze blowing down from the hills as I drove south this morning. The sky had a peachy glow and the ocean was brushed clean and without horizon. A rare and unsettling day.
The waves though, were clean and pretty. As I pulled up to the parking spot facing the ocean, I could see cresting waves peaking up beyond the sand dunes. The sharp white lips stood in contrast against the grey sky.
I rode the Lghtbender and surfed alone for a couple hours. There was consistent energy but it also a lot of hunting involved. Best were the lefts that bent across the bar and ran with a tapering face into the shallows. Got pretty slotted on a couple but there wasn't anything quite open enough for a legit barrel. At least that's my excuse. Got a couple walled up rights that allowed for a turn or two but most of them bent away and sectioned or closed out. Board felt good but I almost wanted a little more drive. Next time I'll try some keels.
The waves though, were clean and pretty. As I pulled up to the parking spot facing the ocean, I could see cresting waves peaking up beyond the sand dunes. The sharp white lips stood in contrast against the grey sky.
I rode the Lghtbender and surfed alone for a couple hours. There was consistent energy but it also a lot of hunting involved. Best were the lefts that bent across the bar and ran with a tapering face into the shallows. Got pretty slotted on a couple but there wasn't anything quite open enough for a legit barrel. At least that's my excuse. Got a couple walled up rights that allowed for a turn or two but most of them bent away and sectioned or closed out. Board felt good but I almost wanted a little more drive. Next time I'll try some keels.
crowded closeouts in a foot of water with thick fog oh fkn joy. worst sesh of the year for me lol. yesterday was epic. hyped swell
Unsurprisingly a lot of people had the same idea of where to surf yesterday. Rode my new gx for its christening session, got one set then took fun little insiders. Love that new board pop. Still really fun despite the crowd.
Chest-high swell so the reefs were packed this morning: 40 and 30 doods at the two spots I usually surf. I only had 45 min to get back to make the nursery school dropoff run, so I went to a little in-between reef and took turns with a couple old timer locals talking story about using ropes to climb down the cliff to these breaks back in the day. Soft waves about waist-high with some racy sections on the inside. Not as good size/quality as the main reefs, but just nice to be out in warm water, glassy conditions and friendly vibe. Few more waves on the Tomo x-wing. It surfs like one of his MPHs with a torpedo nose added onto the front: playful, fast and really whippy.
Thanks a bunch Surfline for highlighting my usual region as being the best in the area along with having offshore winds. No wind but dense fog. And holy sh!t crowded; probably the most I have ever seen it. Waves were chest to head high and hollow but pretty walled with some backwash and tide/long period swell causing waves to jack hard off the bottom. Even so, I did get some good ones, a few closeout barrels, a few corners allowing a turn or two. Fog got pretty thick at one point. Wave of the day by far came right to me and I never saw it until it broke 30 feet out past me. Alas.
Finally was able to track down an XLT short-arm 2mil full suit. Perfect for today. And I christened it proper by p*ssing in it while still in the parking lot. So yes, it saw p*ss before water.
I guess we need another week for crowds to dissipate.
Finally was able to track down an XLT short-arm 2mil full suit. Perfect for today. And I christened it proper by p*ssing in it while still in the parking lot. So yes, it saw p*ss before water.
I guess we need another week for crowds to dissipate.
LOL. I’ll cop to peeing in my suit before getting in the water lately. I run around all morning fueled by coffee, so I’m usually dying to go by the time I get to surf late morning. Sweet relief!
fun looking runners at check but couldn't really put it together in the water. wouldn't let you in, then just slammed on shallow bar.
Got one racer that the fuse (sbd) felt good on. Wave held me up so I jammed the nose down before standing up and it just took off. backside runner with the foot planted against the tail pad kick and the board just felt so damn fluid.
Got one racer that the fuse (sbd) felt good on. Wave held me up so I jammed the nose down before standing up and it just took off. backside runner with the foot planted against the tail pad kick and the board just felt so damn fluid.
Maybe it's time to go see Mr. Terry Senate and get another magic 6'6 redux??
You were the terror @ Tamarack on that thing
Finally some waves today and my god did that feel GOOD!
a few drop ins at a place where that normally doesn't happen much, but hey, crowded and plenty waves to go around.
Wait... do I know you?Maybe it's time to go see Mr. Terry Senate and get another magic 6'6 redux??
You were the terror @ Tamarack on that thing
Finally some waves today and my god did that feel GOOD!
a few drop ins at a place where that normally doesn't happen much, but hey, crowded and plenty waves to go around.
But yes I very much do need a new Senate. The combined age of my current 3 board quiver is oh good god over 50 years and one of them is a glass slipper.
50 year old quiver!Wait... do I know you?
But yes I very much do need a new Senate. The combined age of my current 3 board quiver is oh good god over 50 years and one of them is a glass slipper.
Nooner at PPP. First time paddling out on the North side in a long time. All cobbles, South side is all sand.
Waves were good, some bigger than overhead + arm high. Crowd was meager at mid-day, and none wanted the sets, besides me, easy pickins. PPP somewhat resembled the left point that cause us to call it PPP here. Tide was high, I bet the dawners scored. Water was warm and clear. Lot's of bait fish. Caught a few where I had to drive to make it, and a few where I needed to wheelie the drop. Stocked!
Waves were good, some bigger than overhead + arm high. Crowd was meager at mid-day, and none wanted the sets, besides me, easy pickins. PPP somewhat resembled the left point that cause us to call it PPP here. Tide was high, I bet the dawners scored. Water was warm and clear. Lot's of bait fish. Caught a few where I had to drive to make it, and a few where I needed to wheelie the drop. Stocked!
Clean workable section-y lines North of the Pier. A few really fun ones with 20w and an insane amount of people in moderate fog 6-4 twinzer . water is warm again
high hopes that tomorrow will be better area wide to spread the crowd
kids need to be back in school
high hopes that tomorrow will be better area wide to spread the crowd
kids need to be back in school
Surfed yesterday and today. Got some closeout barrels. Holy sh!t it was crowded today.
Surfed a jetty wave yesterday evening. There was a massive boat dredging the river channel which bodes well for this sand bar in my experience. It looked smaller than it was and I took out the 5'8" Puddle Jumper which I haven't ridden in a long time. The sets ended up being chest high or bigger and pretty punchy. Got some fun ones and the board handled pretty well. Felt a little overpowered on a couple of the bigger waves but I managed to keep it under control. Got a few good end section hits. Pretty much ran my buddy over. He was paddling for the shoulder which was his bad but I should have just kicked out. Neither one of us needs a fat hospital bill right now. I told him I bet you're glad you called me up here so I could come and run you over haha. Today is foggy and smokey but the buoy is showing swell so I'm gonna go looking while the tide is low.
Dawned the regular. Rising swell, pulses then lulls. Rode the Love Seat and got a few nuggets. That board holds a carve for some distance. The Mayor opened up parking at the beach park with certain restrictions. And there’s waves on the NS, so the heavy crowd from the last couple of weeks has somewhat thinned out.
last sesh for awhile so I did my best to battle the crowd without being too much of a dick. got a few. new fuse sbd model is feeling great, but I'm not surprised. water dipped a bit.
got a few waves today. two really good rights. in 2 hours. not a single left. Beach breaks suck. 16 sec. interval so i was like fck i don't wanna fight with this swell today. square one 6'0 easy paddler. i saw the guys on the insight getting flogged around
The bad part is my wave is sloppy and maybe the Stretch is too much rocker. gonna go again tomorrow try something wider and flatter. did one turn in the lip, just good timing, but the guys were like "hey nice snap." I'm like what snap? i was just kinda turning on the lip. More like the wave hit the bottom of the board. I did hear some water being slapped. wish I had like 6 more of those sections...damn.
easy paddler. i saw the guys on the insight getting flogged aroundThe bad part is my wave is sloppy and maybe the Stretch is too much rocker. gonna go again tomorrow try something wider and flatter. did one turn in the lip, just good timing, but the guys were like "hey nice snap." I'm like what snap? i was just kinda turning on the lip. More like the wave hit the bottom of the board. I did hear some water being slapped. wish I had like 6 more of those sections...damn.
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