Once and a while they would be laughing as they poured chum over the side of the boat! Thanks guys!
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Creepiest surf spots
- Thread starter casa_mugrienta
- Start date
Worked out in Campbell Industrial and would surf around the corner from there alone on lunch breaks sometimes. Saw a lot of shadows, maybe real maybe not.
To add to my OP, this is just crazy, two people fishing swept off the shore and cant swim back, spend the night in the water, get spotted the next day being circled by Tiger Sharks!? WTF.
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Fishing pair swept out to sea rescued as sharks circled them
Two Big Island fishermen swept out to sea were found Friday morning as they were being circled by three large tiger sharks.
www.hawaiinewsnow.com
The waters off Pololu and Waipio are murky becuase they are rivermouths, and black sand beaches too. For how warm and beautiful it is, they are remote, with miles of hiking required, which adds to the feeling. You get down to the water, look out there, and something just screams dont go out.
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When I think of pumping, I think of places like Australia, South Africa, some parts of Europe, and Indo.I turned around while paddling out at a spot in Florida very, very close to an inlet, in very consistent head high surf, when I saw feeding sharks on all sides. Up/down current, in the face of the approaching wave, and directly inside. I rate the **** out of head high surf, and this spot had nobody out, and I tucked cock and booked it back in.
Yeah. All these other west-facing temperate latitude places are the end-all, be-all of legit perfection. But nothing really pumps in California. It's all chest high Oceanside.
Personally, as it relates to the Mex/Centro thread, I would leave Florida for Centro on account of the cost of living and surf, but I'd consider Central America a step down, surfwise, from California. On average, I've had better surf in California in December/January than Centro in June/July/August.
Can you let me know why head high Playa Hermosa, or any main spot in Peru or Nicaragua with 50 people hassling every bit as bad as Lowers, somehow pumps, but California doesn't?
Areas that experience good, hollow wave trains with high quality surf on the regular.
The west-facing coasts of South Africa, Australia, and Indonesia for sure look legit. I would wager good money December/January suck in South Africa and Australia the same way July/August suck in California. I don't feel like I have for sure seen those places in the off-season. I have for sure seen off season waves in Indo. Keramas and Canggu blow if California isn't cutting it.
I've seen no shortage of absolute dogshit surf at the J Bay, Gold Coast, and Bells contests. Straight up Jax Beach-tier dogshit.
I've seen no shortage of absolute dogshit surf at the Portugal, Mundaka, and Hossegor contests. Straight up Jax Beach-tier dogshit. Comparing Bakio to Jax Beach is an insult to Jax Beach.
Dee Why, Manly, Newcastle...based on contests I've seen run there, the East Coast of Australia is not running low on dogshit surf.
Dane went to South Africa for Stab in the Dark and stepped in it.
Julian went to West Oz for Stab in the Dark and stepped in it.
France has all kinds of tide and current and wind problems.
I've seen multiple Pipe Masters won in what looked like shitty Spanish House with Kaena Point photoshopped into the background.
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That did go through my mind. But just the immediate change in vibe was remarkable.Sea turtles are Tiger Sharks favorite food. Just sayin'
The relative depth of water (2-3' vs 20') also made me feel better.
Every place has dog days, the bottom line is there are many places on earth with better more consistent quality than CA.
BTW, aside from the first surf I'd hardly call this stepping in it. Super fun, warm, punchy, and often empty.
I'll agree to disagree that there are "many" places on Earth with better, more consistent quality, and other than the Canaries, or claiming Tahiti or Reunion, Europe isn't on that list. They're not running out of onshore wind in Portugal.
I took a second look at that video. I saw lots of shortsleeve fullsuitage. That to me means low 60s on account of I see Dane wearing tops at Trestles when everyone else is in fullsuits. Just a guess/could be wrong, and anyway I don't think "warm" counts for sh!t, and it sure as sh!t doesn't count for sh!t if Europe, West Oz/South Oz/Tassie/Vicco and Cape Town/Jeffries are the majority of your non-Indo "good" places. I mean what else is left, Durban? And anyone who needs a 5/4 in Northern California is straight up going to drop dead stepping off the plane in France in February, like an iguana in South Florida during the Polar Vortex.
He gets a couple thumpy ones at what looks like New Pier or similar. I also saw plenty of surf in the head high range, often kind of junky looking. I have not had a problem getting junky looking head high surf at El Porto, and the instant the wind isn't perfect, spots in Southern California tend to resemble the town of Pripyat in HBO's Chernobyl after they find out it's 15,000 roentgen. I mean the wind stops being perfect for 30 seconds and they're sending the pregnant women to Palm Springs or Vegas where it's safe.
Holy sh*t this is good and I could never have said it better.
Junky Durban surf can be really surfable and fun IMO. Durban/Balito area was one of those places where it could look like absolute crap and I'd paddle out on a thruster and get a hundred turns and be buzzing the rest of the day. Here when it looks like crap, it is.
I feel the same way about North Florida; if it's offshore I'm typically grabbing some kind of alt/hybrid, when it's onshore, it can feel like there's a million peaks and sections everywhere, and there's more of a chip in, less race, and a coping waiting for you.
Cheers, but that's also flex SoCal backs up. It's clean there an absolute shitload. I'm sure it's clean in Indonesia in the dry season, too. But then "empty" gets mentioned as a credit to South Africa in Dane's Stab in the Dark, and if that's valid, I'm guessing 95% of the named waves we know in Indonesia are rendered worthless.
It looks great in boardshorts ads and "travel specials". I throw on a youtube that hasn't been carefully curated, like those "surfers of bali" videos? If I saw that checking it in person, I'd turn around and fly back to Florida.
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In my area when it's onshore there's often just no surfable face whatsoever. Also we sometimes experience this phenomenon where the waves are super weak when trying to surf them, just offering no push to move you along but then when you are on the inside trying to get back out they will absolutely light you up. Like I'm doing the huntington hop trying to stay with my wave and then 10 seconds later I'm getting the board ripped out of my hands on a duckdive. I'm not sure if it's an actual phenomenon or if it's just in my head but either way i'm not a fan.
Comparing North Florida or El Porto to Durban - particularly the spot in that video that looks thumpy but junky - is
That spot is one of the most rippable beachbreaks I've ever surfed and with the exception of South Beach there is nothing in Florida that even compares in terms of quality. And the water is warm - upper 60s/low70s.
That spot is one of the most rippable beachbreaks I've ever surfed and with the exception of South Beach there is nothing in Florida that even compares in terms of quality. And the water is warm - upper 60s/low70s.
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And here the same. Long periods combined with nothing to hold sand. And this means a little onshore wind and you have yourself a closeout/blowout.
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Stinson Beach north of Frisco freaked me the f out as a teenager. More recently, Pakala(s) on Kauai was sketch enough
with the shi+ brown water from the river, but a wife just about lost in on her hubby who came in and
said he'd been "bumped" and that multiple people saw a fin immediately after (with several kids in the water).
with the shi+ brown water from the river, but a wife just about lost in on her hubby who came in and
said he'd been "bumped" and that multiple people saw a fin immediately after (with several kids in the water).
Piedras Blancas is on the top of my list for creep factor.