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Young surfer dies in Mexico

Geopac

Geopac

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 28, 2003
1,367
591
113
Ballast Point
This happened to a great guy and experienced surfer from Santa Cruz when I was down there in 2012. We were surfing a fun chest high day at a point a little ways up the coast from Salina Cruz. Would never think someone could die on a day like that. Unfortunately it's when you least expect it as tragic accidents happen. RIP to the victim and condolences to the family.
 
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000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,140
7,381
113
i heard something more disturbing
it was a laceration to the neck, allegedly, that killed him
 
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racer1

racer1

Tom Curren status
Apr 16, 2014
12,955
15,042
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
Last year at Kirra, I took of on a nearly double overhead square keg, air dropped to the bottom with my board landing flat and completely stopped. Like an e brake. I flew forward and planted my colarbone/upper pectoral right on the nose of my board. Hurt like a motherfcker. Got the wind knocked out of me and went back over the falls. Dragged on the sand bottom. Barely came up in time, winded seeing spots and thought I punctured my chest. Luckily it was just a small laceration and a really bad bruise. I still have a scar, but it was pretty close to my neck. I always think about how it could have been worse.

RIP young man.
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
3,989
3,788
113
racer1 said:
Last year at Kirra, I took of on a nearly double overhead square keg, air dropped to the bottom with my board landing flat and completely stopped. Like an e brake. I flew forward and planted my colarbone/upper pectoral right on the nose of my board. Hurt like a motherfcker. Got the wind knocked out of me and went back over the falls. Dragged on the sand bottom. Barely came up in time, winded seeing spots and thought I punctured my chest. Luckily it was just a small laceration and a really bad bruise. I still have a scar, but it was pretty close to my neck. I always think about how it could have been worse.

RIP young man.
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Dude...you got to surf Kirra! I'd take a chest stabbing for that. Were there 500 people out?
 
racer1

racer1

Tom Curren status
Apr 16, 2014
12,955
15,042
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
stringcheese said:
Dude...you got to surf Kirra! I'd take a chest stabbing for that. Were there 500 people out?
Click to expand...
I surfed it 3x that day. Each time there wasn't more than 30-50 guys out spread all the way down the point. Nip smash happened the 3rd time I paddle out. I was rounding the groin paddling from Greenmount side when that set came. The crowd was whistling and yelling to go, so I had to. Otherwise I don't think I would have went on that one.

Photo Apr 27, 6 21 42 PM.jpg
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
3,989
3,788
113
Damn, hell of bruise. Like mom alway said though, it's a long way from the hear....oh, no it isn't...it's really close. :oops:
 
stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
3,989
3,788
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It wasn't crowded last time I surfed it either. Here's footage from my session.
I paddle in weird, but it works for me.
 
GWS_2

GWS_2

Miki Dora status
Aug 3, 2019
4,141
4,391
113
It can happen to anyone. Things bounce the wrong way and it's over. Every wipeout is a study in chaos theory. As a high school kid I had my skull fractured in the water. It should have killed me. The young think they are invincible. It's both the beauty and the hazard of youth. My heart goes out to his family. RIP.
 
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GromsDad

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,648
16,500
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
GWS_2 said:
It can happen to anyone. Things bounce the wrong way and it's over. Every wipeout is a study in chaos theory. As a high school kid I had my skull fractured in the water. It should have killed me. The young think they are invincible. It's both the beauty and the hazard of youth. My heart goes out to his family. RIP.
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I've surfed for almost 40 years with only a couple of close calls and only a handful of relatively minor injuries. I've been very lucky. There is a lot of risk in this game. I know its just a numbers game though. As a parent of 3 surfers one of the things I've always feared is that my luck could run out in the form of one of my kids getting hurt. I've often thought about that especially with my boys who love pulling into heavy barrels and laugh at taking beatings in beach break closeouts. Last year one of my boys took a fin deep into the back of his thigh. Those high end fins are like knives. Thankfully the 2 inch deep stabbing wound didn't catch an artery and only required a visit to urgent care.
 
P

potato-nator

Phil Edwards status
Nov 10, 2015
6,066
1,283
113
GWS_2 said:
It can happen to anyone. Things bounce the wrong way and it's over. Every wipeout is a study in chaos theory. As a high school kid I had my skull fractured in the water. It should have killed me. The young think they are invincible. It's both the beauty and the hazard of youth. My heart goes out to his family. RIP.
Click to expand...
my pal was super at backside tuberiding; man could he bob and weave.
i used to wonder how he didn't get hurt til one day he did.
he healed thankfully.
 
000

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,140
7,381
113
i cracked my skul too, when i was 6. not surfing, i fell out a window 10' onto concrete. 7" crack.

and regarding the fin to thigh, some guy did that at windansea in the 80s, iirc he had a cheyne horan fin, lost a ton of blood, which u could see on the sidewalk for weeks after

its true
u can have your ticket punched at any time
 
N

noone999

OTF status
Sep 13, 2012
317
43
28
HI
I've known his mom since I was 9. We grew up together. This is just terrible. I feel just heartbroken for the family. Can't imagine losing my son in his prime. RIP Blake.
 
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GWS_2

GWS_2

Miki Dora status
Aug 3, 2019
4,141
4,391
113
When you don't know where your board is, getting your hands up on your head like you are on the ground curled up and taking a beating, (for lack of a better way of describing it) is good policy IMHO. You're blind, and it isn't perfect, (you can still be hurt) but it cuts down on the angles of attack. It's worth a go.

And I've felt/seen some hideously sharp fins. I really don't think you are going to lose much performance if you take a piece of 80 grit and slightly dull the trailing edges. Again, not perfect, but worth a go IMO. If you are riding a quad it's like having four knives on attached to the back of your board. You pull into a closeout tube and the words frog in a blender come to mind. There are different opinions about how to set up a fall in that situation. "Stay on and get blasted off" creeps me out. Some say flop off the tail. That can work in big stuff where you have more time I suppose. Less chance of getting sucked over. Makes me feel like I am offering my twig and berries up to my fin cluster. In tight tubes on a small board, going off forward and intentionally stuffing the nose (pearling) so in theory, the board goes the opposite way you are taking your body. I don't know. Try something. Stay aware and stay safe. I'm going surfing...
 
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