Sh!t happens. Sorry.
I'm going to drive 45min and hike a good while to possibly get skunked. Marginal call today, but we might just score, so damn the torpedos.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
I'm going to drive 45min and hike a good while to possibly get skunked. Marginal call today, but we might just score, so damn the torpedos.
Took some vacation days off and lucky to have rideable waves. 2 days in a row after a 4 week drought. Water is really cold for summer. Bigger yesterday but more organized and sheet glass today around chest high. Mild current to drift the crowds away and got in the sweet spot. However, it will take a few more sessions to get my sea legs back, but still some nice memorable rides.
Turned back after getting out of the water and it looked like little Nland lefts. Stock to be getting a new custom delivered this evening.
Turned back after getting out of the water and it looked like little Nland lefts. Stock to be getting a new custom delivered this evening.
Not great, but much better this morning than yesterday. Very crowded, which I guess is just going to be the
norm now. The bars are pretty jacked up right now with a big trench between the outside and the inside.
The 7'6" HPTC twinzer was a good choice as I could sit outside and catch the bigger sets when they'd actually
break out there and usually get one sweeping carve, then connect through the uber fat part and occasionally it
would stand up again for a speed run, turn, or end section closeout hit. I had fun.
norm now. The bars are pretty jacked up right now with a big trench between the outside and the inside.
The 7'6" HPTC twinzer was a good choice as I could sit outside and catch the bigger sets when they'd actually
break out there and usually get one sweeping carve, then connect through the uber fat part and occasionally it
would stand up again for a speed run, turn, or end section closeout hit. I had fun.
Yeah, well, we scored AND got skunked. Was pumping, then lully, then pumping, then nothing. All of a sudden a bomb set came through, and I sprinted out and wide and somehow knifed the drop. Made it halfway down the line before the next section started closing out, but managed to pin drop and not hit the rocks. It was a 12ft+ face, so quite exciting.
Old Ghost, ever-reliable.
In the end we had a 30min lull, and two of us paddled in. My other mate stayed out another 5 minutes and managed to snap his board duckdiving. It's a heavy spot.
Dawned the regular. It’s been small but wanted to jump in and get a couple before the next run of swell forecasted for next week. Got two fun ones right off the bat. Rode the Vesso Love Seat which has been fun on the small days. Waiting out a lull I got stung on my wrist. Box jellyfish. Kept telling myself not to rub it but couldn’t help myself. Felt sh*tty driving to work so I stopped at 7-11 and was going to buy Benadryl but got no drowsy Allegra instead. 10-15 minutes later felt fine.
Dawned the regular. It was small but really clean. Low tide. Crowded. Got a good one to start. My friend Terrance snowballed the little nugget in front of me which gave me a good spot to pop a floater. Came down with speed and did a couple of snaps. Then waited forever for a wave. Finally told the crew sorry I gotta go in to work. I’m going on the next one no matter what. You guys can follow me but I’m going. Next wave was one of the bigger ones of the morning. The regulars hooted me in and jinx closeout. Fark. How does a shoulder high wave closeout like that. I proned in. Haha.
Groveled a couple at the usual, jacked back is slowly getting better(pop up still rough)
Off to SC for a couple days next week, I'm bringing real flatness with me
Off to SC for a couple days next week, I'm bringing real flatness with me
do some romanian deadlifts
NOC summer regular was crap and ended up at the north side of the pier in the middle of what appeared to be a brazzo soft top meet up and a wanna be kanoa lookalike struggling on a twin fish, all taking off on everything with no f_cks given. Total chaos and I shouldn’t have been surprised. Highlight was a guy dropping in on me, pearling, having board shoot up in the air as I tried to get around him, and deflect the board with my forearm before it tagged in me in the head then grabbing it before it could damage my beloved giggle box.
Took the next one in after that and made the surf shop rounds to molest some boards
Took the next one in after that and made the surf shop rounds to molest some boards
Insanely (4th of July) crowded before 9am both in and out of the water. Very slow and inconsistent, but found a
corner with a few pretty long, soft, peeling lefts into a foot of water on the Slot NR. I'll take it!
corner with a few pretty long, soft, peeling lefts into a foot of water on the Slot NR. I'll take it!
needed to see my mother the pacific, drove down to the sneaky weekend park zone but was full of cars, went to the state beach lot and full, had to go to my old standby spot that is open for me by my old landlord but lo and behold a spot near the beach access was open, boom, 9'4 kenson for 1 1/2 hours was planning on just paddling down the beach 1 mile up and back but found a piece of reef that had longboardable waves, tried a fin first take off ala the knost video, yep i can still do that.. lots of sights and sounds on the beach but the ocean was peaceful
Dawned the regular. Took out the Tokoro HP Twin. I struggle with that board if the waves are soft. Should’ve used the other twin. Did get a good one and went vert on two snaps in a row. Got a cheer from Elton who surfs the way way inside. It got crowded and a Nihonjin lady on a longboard got in the way of my next best wave I had waited forever for. I sounded her and she went in. My friend was saying it’s the weekend. I replied she’s out everyday getting in someone’s way today was my lucky day. Hopefully the swell forecasted fills in, the crowds have been making me and the dawn patrol crew testy.
morning sesh with my son. small and uncrowded for a nice warmup. sweat pretty good then went to spot b for some nice carves on 6-12 foot walls. new board felt great.
hopefully get back in the water tomorrow
hopefully get back in the water tomorrow
grovel at desperation bar on the sub. water was warm and felt so good. waves sucked but managed three fun ones before the city of san diego showed up.
More soft longboard waves with LOTS of other people. Got a couple decent lefts on the Slot that ran along quickly on the
inside bar. Was lucky to get a parking spot again.
inside bar. Was lucky to get a parking spot again.
paddled and drank. then drank some more...ten maybe alittle more. now ive got a 30 pack of natty ice....but it looks to have less wind that earlier....hearing roudn two calling!
Dust off the old beer helmet and go shred a few Amigo
Just mount the cooler full and see how far you can paddle in blackout mode
done it. forgot (or couldnt) to turn on the garmin....but done it