Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
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I've had quite a few seaside sessions go from fine, everyone sitting on the peak trading off to getting trolled by dudes on mid's and eggs.
 
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ChaseTMP

Michael Peterson status
Apr 6, 2014
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S. Redondo
^ Same (although not at Seaside). I call it wrongboarding. I have no love for mid-length/funboards, stylish longboarding; yes, but that's pretty hard to accomplish at my local with quick little beachbreak waves 90% of the time. Stormkookers also make my blood boil when they're people that can obviously surf competently and just sit outside and paddle the f'n foam barges furiously into the same zone as the shortboarders with an "I was on it first" attitude.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
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My heart bleeds for your predicament Bob.
If you're quiver consists of a 5'8" daily driver and a 6'1" step up for example you may find things can get a bit tough for you in this day and age.

Don't cry for me.

I live about 450 miles from Seaside, I rarely surf it when I'm nearby, and I haven't surfed for the better part of 10 months.
 
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sushipop

Michael Peterson status
Feb 7, 2008
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The Dagobah System
Sam George thinks more of us should ride mid lengths.
 

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
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Probably dropping in on you, California
the midlengths are a ton of fun but I feel like im starting to develop bad habits when i ride a hpsb or my flare. Approach is becoming a little lazy and less aggressive.

Like on my hpsb, usually as soon as i plant my feet, i go for that first pump and momentum down the line, or immediately engage, drop in and crank a bottom turn with a ton of momentum, but the more I surf the mid - the more I hvae to consciously remind myself to engage. May be all in my head - but I dont want to have to think about when surfing the shortbaord.

that said - its been alot of fun, especially on crowded days where im paddling circles around everyone and pretty getting any wave i want.
 
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Chocki

Phil Edwards status
Feb 18, 2007
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Planet Earth
Sam George thinks more of us should ride mid lengths.
I remember when they were called “funboards”.
Sam G’s advice is sound in theory but why he went with mid length instead of single fin short board as a recommendation is beyond me? All the benefits, none of the drawbacks.
 

mundus

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Feb 26, 2018
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The thing that does not get mentioned enough is duckdiving, if you can't make it out it does not matter what the board rides like.
 
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rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
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the midlengths are a ton of fun but I feel like im starting to develop bad habits when i ride a hpsb or my flare. Approach is becoming a little lazy and less aggressive.

Like on my hpsb, usually as soon as i plant my feet, i go for that first pump and momentum down the line, or immediately engage, drop in and crank a bottom turn with a ton of momentum, but the more I surf the mid - the more I hvae to consciously remind myself to engage. May be all in my head - but I dont want to have to think about when surfing the shortbaord.

that said - its been alot of fun, especially on crowded days where im paddling circles around everyone and pretty getting any wave i want.
Same and forget to pump on my alpha omega twin and blow the wave specially frontside.
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
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The thing that does not get mentioned enough is duckdiving, if you can't make it out it does not matter what the board rides like.
I was surprised I could duck dive my mid. I think duck dive is more about technique.

I find some rocker really helps control what you’re doing underwater with respect to going deeper vs surfacing when dealing with a longer, wider board than what you’re used to. Can’t just muscle it, you have to start a little earlier.
 
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rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
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I was surprised I could duck dive my mid. I think duck dive is more about technique.

I find some rocker really helps control what you’re doing underwater with respect to going deeper vs surfacing when dealing with a longer, wider board than what you’re used to. Can’t just muscle it, you have to start a little earlier.
+1 and think same thing applies for those who complain about turning full rails that are over 2.25" :)
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
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the midlengths are a ton of fun but I feel like im starting to develop bad habits when i ride a hpsb or my flare. Approach is becoming a little lazy and less aggressive.

Like on my hpsb, usually as soon as i plant my feet, i go for that first pump and momentum down the line, or immediately engage, drop in and crank a bottom turn with a ton of momentum, but the more I surf the mid - the more I hvae to consciously remind myself to engage. May be all in my head - but I dont want to have to think about when surfing the shortbaord.

that said - its been alot of fun, especially on crowded days where im paddling circles around everyone and pretty getting any wave i want.
I totally agree but I also think there's a flip side to it. I know I used to be more spastic when I was riding nothing but hpsb thrusters exclusively. In fast beach breaks you pretty much have to be, just to get going and fit in a turn before it closes out. It's hard to break that instinct and then when the waves are actually lined up and good I'd still be in that pump, pump, pump mindset rather than being more patient and surfing to match the wave. Riding boards with more glide, whether it's my long twin or just a fish have definitely smoothed out my surfing and I like to think that some of that has carried over to my hpsb. It usually doesn't take me more than a few waves to adjust and if I'm struggling it's probably because the waves suck and I should be on a different board anyways.
 
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urchined

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Jul 20, 2019
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I totally agree but I also think there's also flip side to it. I know I used to be more spastic when I was riding nothing but hpsb thrusters exclusively. In fast beach breaks you pretty much have to be, just to get going and fit in a turn before it closes out. It's hard to break that instinct and then when the waves are actually lined up and good I'd still be in that pump, pump, pump mindset rather than being more patient and surfing to fit the wave. Riding boards with more glide, whether it's my long twin or just a fish have definitely smoothed out my surfing and I like to think that some of that has carried over to my hpsb. It usually doesn't take me more than a few waves to adjust and if I'm struggling it's probably because the waves suck and I should be on a different board anyways.
true that
 

flyinraptr

Michael Peterson status
Dec 18, 2008
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San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
The thing that does not get mentioned enough is duckdiving, if you can't make it out it does not matter what the board rides like.
I think there are some differentiating factors .... when i think of a "funboard" i am thinking something 3"+ thickness - duck diving is gonna be a struggle no matter who you are. Performance mid-lengths generally speaking are going to be thinner - as an example - my 6'10" is 2 5/8" thickness. I'm 5'6" and around 165lbs and i can duck dive it with no problems.
 
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