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My heart bleeds for your predicament Bob.
If you're quiver consists of a 5'8" daily driver and a 6'1" step up for example you may find things can get a bit tough for you in this day and age.
I remember when they were called “funboards”.Sam George thinks more of us should ride mid lengths.
Sam George's important message to BeachGrit readers: "You're riding the wrong surfboard…you rarely do an actual bottom turn…can't paddle, can't takeoff…you run ahead of the curl etc"
Here’s the thing: you’re riding the wrong surfboard. The wrong surfboard, that is, if you have no surf contest trophies in your well-stocked boardroom, no sponsorship deals, less than six stickers top and bottom and only family and friends subscribing to your vlog. Forget what all the promo...beachgrit.com
Same and forget to pump on my alpha omega twin and blow the wave specially frontside.the midlengths are a ton of fun but I feel like im starting to develop bad habits when i ride a hpsb or my flare. Approach is becoming a little lazy and less aggressive.
Like on my hpsb, usually as soon as i plant my feet, i go for that first pump and momentum down the line, or immediately engage, drop in and crank a bottom turn with a ton of momentum, but the more I surf the mid - the more I hvae to consciously remind myself to engage. May be all in my head - but I dont want to have to think about when surfing the shortbaord.
that said - its been alot of fun, especially on crowded days where im paddling circles around everyone and pretty getting any wave i want.
I was surprised I could duck dive my mid. I think duck dive is more about technique.The thing that does not get mentioned enough is duckdiving, if you can't make it out it does not matter what the board rides like.
+1 and think same thing applies for those who complain about turning full rails that are over 2.25"I was surprised I could duck dive my mid. I think duck dive is more about technique.
I find some rocker really helps control what you’re doing underwater with respect to going deeper vs surfacing when dealing with a longer, wider board than what you’re used to. Can’t just muscle it, you have to start a little earlier.
Try Jefferson deadliftsThe thing that does not get mentioned enough is duckdiving, if you can't make it out it does not matter what the board rides like.
I totally agree but I also think there's a flip side to it. I know I used to be more spastic when I was riding nothing but hpsb thrusters exclusively. In fast beach breaks you pretty much have to be, just to get going and fit in a turn before it closes out. It's hard to break that instinct and then when the waves are actually lined up and good I'd still be in that pump, pump, pump mindset rather than being more patient and surfing to match the wave. Riding boards with more glide, whether it's my long twin or just a fish have definitely smoothed out my surfing and I like to think that some of that has carried over to my hpsb. It usually doesn't take me more than a few waves to adjust and if I'm struggling it's probably because the waves suck and I should be on a different board anyways.the midlengths are a ton of fun but I feel like im starting to develop bad habits when i ride a hpsb or my flare. Approach is becoming a little lazy and less aggressive.
Like on my hpsb, usually as soon as i plant my feet, i go for that first pump and momentum down the line, or immediately engage, drop in and crank a bottom turn with a ton of momentum, but the more I surf the mid - the more I hvae to consciously remind myself to engage. May be all in my head - but I dont want to have to think about when surfing the shortbaord.
that said - its been alot of fun, especially on crowded days where im paddling circles around everyone and pretty getting any wave i want.
true thatI totally agree but I also think there's also flip side to it. I know I used to be more spastic when I was riding nothing but hpsb thrusters exclusively. In fast beach breaks you pretty much have to be, just to get going and fit in a turn before it closes out. It's hard to break that instinct and then when the waves are actually lined up and good I'd still be in that pump, pump, pump mindset rather than being more patient and surfing to fit the wave. Riding boards with more glide, whether it's my long twin or just a fish have definitely smoothed out my surfing and I like to think that some of that has carried over to my hpsb. It usually doesn't take me more than a few waves to adjust and if I'm struggling it's probably because the waves suck and I should be on a different board anyways.
I think there are some differentiating factors .... when i think of a "funboard" i am thinking something 3"+ thickness - duck diving is gonna be a struggle no matter who you are. Performance mid-lengths generally speaking are going to be thinner - as an example - my 6'10" is 2 5/8" thickness. I'm 5'6" and around 165lbs and i can duck dive it with no problems.The thing that does not get mentioned enough is duckdiving, if you can't make it out it does not matter what the board rides like.