Received this custom order in mid-February and have ridden it every single time I've surfed except for once. All sessions have been in Oceanside with everything from waist high garbage to 2' OH closeouts and the odd, high quality hollow day.
A friend who is a professional shaper made the board. His name is Doug Moreaux. He does a lot of boards for well-known companies. You see his boards (Talon label) in the water in Oceanside. Some under the feet of very good surfers.
The board is based off a board he made himself for small, mushy Oceanside which is what we have 75%+ of the time. I know length is 5'6" and estimate width a bit under 20", and thickness a solid 2.5". Volume? Probably 28-29L. Dims not visible on bottom of board. Very flat rocker and especially through the tail. Epoxy construction.
Concave? I don't know. I don't pay attention to that. Looks like a double through the tail. Full rails for the most part that get very hard above the wing and stay that way through the tail.
Board does exceptionally well in small, clean surf. My favorite thing is how quickly it comes off the bottom. You can completely nail the lip no problem with rider skill level only variable. Easy speed generation of course. Holds a good line in the barrel. You feel the flat tail rocker if go into a hard, sharp turn on a larger, steep face or if you power an open face carve too hard so there's an adjustment curve there as compared to a board with more tail rocker. You can find an extra gear on open face cutbacks if you can get your back foot heel farther toward the inside turning rail like you would on a fish.
If the waves are shifty with some power and OH its kinda hard to get in early but I think that's just the length more than anything. In cleaner waves I had no issues catching 2' OH waves on this board.
JS quads (medium) are my favorite. Tried some split-keel fins and while i got more hold through carves they were not as lively as the JS quads. I like the loose, quick feel even if it give up some hold
.
The color/airbrush was a surprise. I said just do what you think looks cool. Tail is especially nice IMO.
I have a 2nd board on order that is closer to a more performance orientated shortboard . . . few inches longer, narrower, bit more tail rocker.
I'm 46 (fook! what happened?), 165 lbs or so and an average, fins in the water surfer.
I really like this board as it gets me amped to surf on the common, average days we have locally. I get the grovel but can bang the lip. Win/win.
A friend who is a professional shaper made the board. His name is Doug Moreaux. He does a lot of boards for well-known companies. You see his boards (Talon label) in the water in Oceanside. Some under the feet of very good surfers.
The board is based off a board he made himself for small, mushy Oceanside which is what we have 75%+ of the time. I know length is 5'6" and estimate width a bit under 20", and thickness a solid 2.5". Volume? Probably 28-29L. Dims not visible on bottom of board. Very flat rocker and especially through the tail. Epoxy construction.
Concave? I don't know. I don't pay attention to that. Looks like a double through the tail. Full rails for the most part that get very hard above the wing and stay that way through the tail.
Board does exceptionally well in small, clean surf. My favorite thing is how quickly it comes off the bottom. You can completely nail the lip no problem with rider skill level only variable. Easy speed generation of course. Holds a good line in the barrel. You feel the flat tail rocker if go into a hard, sharp turn on a larger, steep face or if you power an open face carve too hard so there's an adjustment curve there as compared to a board with more tail rocker. You can find an extra gear on open face cutbacks if you can get your back foot heel farther toward the inside turning rail like you would on a fish.
If the waves are shifty with some power and OH its kinda hard to get in early but I think that's just the length more than anything. In cleaner waves I had no issues catching 2' OH waves on this board.
JS quads (medium) are my favorite. Tried some split-keel fins and while i got more hold through carves they were not as lively as the JS quads. I like the loose, quick feel even if it give up some hold
.The color/airbrush was a surprise. I said just do what you think looks cool. Tail is especially nice IMO.
I have a 2nd board on order that is closer to a more performance orientated shortboard . . . few inches longer, narrower, bit more tail rocker.
I'm 46 (fook! what happened?), 165 lbs or so and an average, fins in the water surfer.
I really like this board as it gets me amped to surf on the common, average days we have locally. I get the grovel but can bang the lip. Win/win.
Guy in front of me snagged the E-Poly one my size, but mine looked cleaner and an extra liter or two won't hurt fur an easy summer board. She's a full-figured gal! 
