*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,044
1,512
113
san diego, CA
swell up with south wind early and some current. kinda funky but improved a bit into the session; not as rippable as yesterday but had some fun turn sections with a only a few out.

i'm super stoked on surfing at the moment so i shrug off crap surf and just paddle out and have fun.

yew
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,321
113
Oceanside, CA
swell up with south wind early and some current. kinda funky but improved a bit into the session; not as rippable as yesterday but had some fun turn sections with a only a few out.

i'm super stoked on surfing at the moment so i shrug off crap surf and just paddle out and have fun.

yew
Your enthusiasm despite those shite conditions/waves is enviable.
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Little bit of bumpy fun at the local .
Stamps fuse box plus new jordy fins felt pretty good considering how rusty my body feels .

Having surfed my last few sessions on a pu/pe boar then today getting on an EPS was epic . Head high and under quiver needs to get an overhaul
 

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
3,866
3,378
113
Dredging left tubes this morning. Current like a river. Quickly realized my ribs still hurt way too bad 2 surf.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. It was head high plus. There was a bump on it early but super fun. Waves kept getting better and more consistent. As the tide drained out the bigger sets closed out. Rode the Tokoro X2 with those magic h4 fins. A little more crowded but mostly the regulars. We took turns, heckled each other, caught up with surfers we haven’t seen in a while, and bragged about our barrels on the big days. Haha.

Last wave was the best one. Let a good one go to one of the younger rippers and his brother and waited for a nugg. Jokingly yelled at Gregg don’t even look at this one and paddled for a gem. He yelled back I’m looking I’m looking. I almost poked the takeoff cause I was distracted. Came from behind the section and went straight up and hit the lip hard. Got a lot of speed and went into a carve trying to wet as much rail as I could. That felt really good. Paddled back out and caught a closeout right in. It was shallow, didn’t want to risk my magic fins on the almost exposed reef.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,511
113
PNW
Passed on the morning low tide sesh at my local which looked fun but crowded and inconsistent. Gambled on the high tide left bar having more energy and consistency and the gamble paid off. Had it to myself for about an hour before a couple friends showed up. It was so fun. Overhead on the sets. Long enough rides for three or four turns. No real barrels to be had but some good, steep faces to slash. Driver was feeling great. The outside roll ins would give you a lot of time to set up before it hit the bar and started reeling. Got one of my better backhand snaps in a long time right in front of my best friend on a nice overhead set wave. Wish I'd been able to surf longer but my feet eventually went numb.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Loc dog social hour at Kelly's the other day. Meh south swell creating a bunch of shifty wedges. Agro vibes. Way too crowded. As hard as a paddled, always just out of position Caught two sh!t waves and called it.

Next day had a magic little high tide sesh down the coast. Mushy, waist high runners. Rode the 5'4 STPNK with Hobbie Keels. This board is way too much fun. So fast and drivey.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,018
7,171
113
h20 warm again
decent south swell, early mornin winds keps most away but of course i still got followers
1 guy was the "i am gonna sit where he is but deeper" type
he got quite a few of my waves with this tactic, guaranteed he'll be back tomorrow
but i got enough
 
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Reactions: jkb and Havoc

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Crazy fun time at my new favorite SD reef
Waist to HH with some bigger ones
Had 3 epic ones before my hair even got wet
Best session to date on the Kazuma fishy

Best wave of the day was a clean HH that the pack missed . Went late and did 3 good snaps with the last one drifting the tail . Float the end section and done .
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,511
113
PNW
Stock-ed for you re-todd.

South winds and periods of heavy rain today. Dark and cloudy. If you CA guys get June gloom, I dunno what to call this. June doom?

We surfed anyways. It was definitely testing the limits of how crappy the conditions can be while still breaking on our left bar but we both stayed out for a while and got a few fun ones. It improved as the tide filled in. Sets were about head high but it did not look like Driver surf so I rode the Fling (as a trusty, to make havoc proud). Hard to judge fins in such marginal conditions but I didn't hate it. Felt a little more pivotal and not as drivey which makes sense. Was glad to have a board that skated over the many flat sections. My timing was off on my first few but I eventually linked a couple decent turns. Nothing like yesterday but I was glad to get wet. Could be tripping but the water feels like it's already warmed up slightly from the South winds.

Changing out of my suit it started dumping slushy rain. I said f this and drove home to change in the shower. Still coming down pretty good out there. I'm glad, we need it so the state doesn't go up in flames this summer.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
I’m living in that movie Groundhog Day. Dawned Bowls....blah blah blah. Haha.

It’s been head high or much bigger for at least three weeks. Weekend crowd. But the regulars were getting the pick of the sets. Some of the younger guys were getting some good ones but one of the uncles pulled rank. I got mildly scolded for letting them get nuggets I could’ve went on. I’m tired and surfed out so it’s easier to be nice.

I took out the Tokoro Moonfish as a cheater board and to try the h4 fins in that board. The fins felt a little big in that board but after a few waves I got used to it. Board flew and turns great for a wider double ender. Gregg one of Wade’s team riders told me he asked Wade to make him a groveller. He asked about the Moonfish and Wade told him that’s an old man board. Perfect. I’m old haha.