Dawned Bowls. It was head high plus. There was a bump on it early but super fun. Waves kept getting better and more consistent. As the tide drained out the bigger sets closed out. Rode the Tokoro X2 with those magic h4 fins. A little more crowded but mostly the regulars. We took turns, heckled each other, caught up with surfers we haven’t seen in a while, and bragged about our barrels on the big days. Haha.
Last wave was the best one. Let a good one go to one of the younger rippers and his brother and waited for a nugg. Jokingly yelled at Gregg don’t even look at this one and paddled for a gem. He yelled back I’m looking I’m looking. I almost poked the takeoff cause I was distracted. Came from behind the section and went straight up and hit the lip hard. Got a lot of speed and went into a carve trying to wet as much rail as I could. That felt really good. Paddled back out and caught a closeout right in. It was shallow, didn’t want to risk my magic fins on the almost exposed reef.