Foil Session Logs

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Walked in. South wind and overcast skies combined with a low tide scared everyone away. The foil made the waves fun. I tried the outside reef a couple times. First time I waited ten minutes for a wave. 2nd time I waited 20 minutes before i had to paddle to the inside. I was 20 minutes late for work due to getting stranded out there.

The inside low tide spot was fun with the old guys.
 

grendel95

Billy Hamilton status
Nov 1, 2005
1,604
325
83
SJC
Walked in. South wind and overcast skies combined with a low tide scared everyone away. The foil made the waves fun. I tried the outside reef a couple times. First time I waited ten minutes for a wave. 2nd time I waited 20 minutes before i had to paddle to the inside. I was 20 minutes late for work due to getting stranded out there.

The inside low tide spot was fun with the old guys.
Outside reef is the most tempting foil wave! One near me is about a 15 foot takeoff spot that only breaks at 1.0 or less tide. Only breaks on a third of the sets that hit the inside, so bungling the takeoff is a real bummer, but pretty likely as the wave explodes on dry reef then backs off quickly to unbroken swell.
 

juandesooka

OTF status
Jan 12, 2009
346
294
63
This is the time of year I start getting jealous of the California folks with the south swell exposure. Up here on southern Vancouver Island, we are cut off from anything beyond WSW. But there has been a couple freak late spring swells this year and (hopefully) another hitting this weekend.

MagicSeaweed dominates up here and their star ratings correlate directly to the degree of crowd, with 5stars = outrageous. I got lucky last Friday on a nothing call that ended up being really excellent foiling ... about 5 hours on the water, first surf foil then wing foil. One of those sessions where you get so many waves, that paddling becomes a problem, had to start walking back and do the loops. And with that many hours in a row, really started to feel the flow on my Iwa wing and dialed in on my new DIY board. I even had a few of the local foil-haters say I was making it look fun out there. Nearly made my first 2fer1. Stoked!

Followed up by a 5star MSW day that had tiny waves, super setty, and the biggest crowd I've ever seen locally (as many spots are closed, so it's all compressed into one spot). As close to unfoilable as it gets ... sketchy with way too many people, even if manage to catch a wave, nowhere to go. I snuck in a few around the crowd and considered myself lucky.

Fingers and toes crossed for tomorrow and Saturday
 
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juandesooka

OTF status
Jan 12, 2009
346
294
63
Unreal session on the Iwa, waves shoulder high outside, mostly closing out, and knee to waist high inside. Closeouts are great, take off in the white water then ride all reform sections inside. A bit windy/bumpy, but makes no difference on the prone foil. Got tired of the long paddles, so did walk backs for half the session. GPS watch said 9 miles covered in 2.25 hours, not sure how many waves, as the settings aren't working right. The furthest inside track, only a little more than knee deep in some sections, over rocks, so coming off foil leads to solid wipeouts. Actually pretty sketchy, because when you come off full height foil in 1' deep water, you can slam pretty hard on the bottom.
 

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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Enough size for the old guys on regular boards to come outside today. Doesn't really matter as I can triple the length of their ride. I got some good cutbacks on the outside today which was nice. That lift 200 sure is smooth through the water.

Full speed run for 1 minute sure kills my legs though. Got one long one an hour in and just called it. Didn't feel like walking around and back out as more and more people were showing up. Fun session.
 

sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,959
283
83
that spot looks really good greg! is that on the 900?

i had an epic experience getting my kid on the foil last week, he's got enviable balance to say the least...this was his 4th session on a foil, he didn't fall once in 3 hours, needless to say he's fully frothed on the foil.

i had this spot last weekend on my own slightly overhead and had the best session of my life, such good power and wave shape, 10 minute paddle back out against the current on the pushing tide was brutal on my new 4'2" but the push calms down the bumps and turbulence so it was worth it.

http://instagr.am/p/CAtAcyrAm4g/
 

juandesooka

OTF status
Jan 12, 2009
346
294
63
Both of the above are super stoking! 11;yr old and riding like that, awesome, imagine 2 years from now what he'll be doing? Crazy.

Yesterday had a weird, good day. After bragging about great rivermouth closeouts, I got punished by the gods for my insolence ... was pretty lame, low tide big dumpers and no reform to ride. I went to another spot that is normally high tide only and usually better on higher interval swells, so was a bit of a gamble. The waves were breaking along it more like a proper point, then unbroken swell through the bay. Seaweed was an issue, in a negative tide, had to get through 50 feet of thick permanent weed bases, couldn't paddle, had to kinda swim/wade through the breaking waves. Using my DIY GL180 copy, I got a few tentative waves, survival stance, then committed to one proper ... super long ride across the bay, first decent ride on it. With the point giving a good launch pad, I went in and got my surf foil and got two more "bay rides"....long walks back. And then tried the wind wing, and in the combination of too light wind and too big a wing (maliko 200) proceeded to get my a** handed to me ... lucky to still have a wing after the two pitchings beat-downs. Then rigged the 12m kite and kitesurfed for 2 hours. All in all, 7 hours in a wetsuit, some solid chafing and now walking around groaning, I am only 20 in my mind, my 52 year old body doesn't listen then pays the price. I betcha Dylan isn't groaning, ready to go for another. :)
 
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sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,959
283
83
ha no he's keen as but now its flat at that spot for a few weeks, he's crushed, i can't wait to see if he progresses this summer.
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Dude your son is stoked!!!! That wave is perhaps the perfect foil wave too. Looked like a boat wake halfway through. His claim at the end was awesome. He doesn't have years of surfing habits to break so his balance is perfect for it. What foil is he on? He's gotta weight 75 pounds dripping wet. Did you just move the foil all the way back in the box?

Ventura finally opened parking. Mondo's is going off for a foil right now. I think i"ll give it a pass this weekend and let the crowd thin out a bit though.
 
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Mar 22, 2020
145
104
43
that spot looks really good greg! is that on the 900?

i had an epic experience getting my kid on the foil last week, he's got enviable balance to say the least...this was his 4th session on a foil, he didn't fall once in 3 hours, needless to say he's fully frothed on the foil.

i had this spot last weekend on my own slightly overhead and had the best session of my life, such good power and wave shape, 10 minute paddle back out against the current on the pushing tide was brutal on my new 4'2" but the push calms down the bumps and turbulence so it was worth it.

http://instagr.am/p/CAtAcyrAm4g/
Yes I was using the 900.

How good is the wave in your video !! how stoked was your kid, that is fantastic !!
 
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sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,959
283
83
Greg,
Yes we’re very lucky having that wave and some others on our doorstep, it’s the easiest learner wave you could get.
His face after that wave was a permanent memory for me, he was blown away.

Hdip,
He was on my old board and gong pro large(1227) cutdown to 1150 ish cm, I moved it back about 20mm from my settings and he seemed to click with it, he has 7 years of skating transition under his belt and 5 years of surfing.
The claim was epic!!!
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Confirmed. My 4'8" is to small to wing. 31 liters doesn't float my 185 pounds well enough. I got the nose out of the water a few times. I even got up on foil once for a split second. But it was as a set was coming in and I fell instantly going down the back of a wave. It's to much work though. If I had a bigger board pretty sure I could figure it out. I'm not buying a bigger board though. Don't have space in my car for more toys. Don't have the time for a new sport. I'm calling it.

Duotone 5m and easy foiler 1750cm gonna go on craigslist when I get around to taking pictures.
 
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juandesooka

OTF status
Jan 12, 2009
346
294
63
Confirmed. My 4'8" is to small to wing. 31 liters doesn't float my 185 pounds well enough. I got the nose out of the water a few times. I even got up on foil once for a split second. But it was as a set was coming in and I fell instantly going down the back of a wave. It's to much work though. If I had a bigger board pretty sure I could figure it out. I'm not buying a bigger board though. Don't have space in my car for more toys. Don't have the time for a new sport. I'm calling it.

Duotone 5m and easy foiler 1750cm gonna go on craigslist when I get around to taking pictures.
You didn't say how windy it was, but I am guessing medium/light...say less than 20kts? This seems to me the winging equivalent of deciding you want to learn to surf, so you grab a 5'6" and paddle out in 8' ulu watu. Wrong gear, wrong conditions, pretty much not gonna happen. :oops:

So in that situation, you either need to wait for the right conditions, travel to where the conditions are right, or get gear that works in the conditions you have. And that gets you on a line with an exponential curve upward, for both money and time. I suspect you're wise to jump off early, before the addiction sets in. It is super fun, but it does tend to get pretty stupid. ;):shaka:
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Wind.JPG

I was out from 12 -2 or thereabouts. So it was over 15 with gusts well above 20. So, marginal wind for my skill level, but enough wind to do it. I'm sure if I had a SUP foil board I would've gotten up. I did break free of the surface once. I had some runs where I was in control of the wing nicely and plodded along with just the nose of the board out of the water. I have to much gear in my car though. I can't have gear for 3 sports and pick up my kids from school. I can just barely do it with gear for 2 sports. If someone wants a better erBB deal feel free to lowball me. :)
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Steamroller showed up where I was at today. We were the only 2 foils in the water for almost the whole time I was out. 1 other guy showed up just before I went in. Then there were about ten thousand wavestorms.

Steamroller was getting really close to pulling off carving 360's. Never seen someone do that on a foil. If he was on a wave that pushed back a little more he would've had it.
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,331
788
113
Malibu, CA
Easily avoidable. I don’t blame the foiler though. Long boarder just doesn’t know what foils are capable of. Never knew what hit em. Board might’ve been damaged but no personal injury is guess.