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Can we talk about HAWAIIAN BIG WAVE SURFERS?
- Thread starter surfysurfy1476
- Start date
Less Hawaiians living in Hawaii than ever before. Moving to the continental US for more opportunities and affordable living.
Want to know where they are?
Charging Makaha. That’s where.
TONS of Hawaiians there charging for love of charging. These were the dudes who were charging Waimea long before IG or internet fame. Just for fun.
Charging Makaha. That’s where.
TONS of Hawaiians there charging for love of charging. These were the dudes who were charging Waimea long before IG or internet fame. Just for fun.
Duane DeSoto, Makaha SUP contest, 2/14/2008. I got drilled after taking this sequence.
Barry ... no. Johnnyboy, in his early days, alot, and use to call the kids into waves at Makaha. Dane or Mike? Not any more. Some of the guys will show up for Buffalo's Makaha Contest which is really fun and a get together of local families that have participated in the event over the years. Actually, a few generations of families.
Such a fun wave to ride at that size!
How old is JBG? I figured he still would be sufing
Dane was my hereo as a grom and never forget scoring his autograph.at the OP pro.
Believe JBG is in his mid-50s and still teaches at a surfing school in Town. One time I posted a pic of him on FB and innocently tagged him. Some commenter said a few disparaging words and JBG was not happy.How old is JBG? I figured he still would be sufing
Dane has had a chronic neck injury for a long time I think. Doesn't surf much any more.
From your mind's eye, can you describe a ride you had at that size?
PS
Anyone ever stay at the hotel right there on the shore? Or is it an apartment building?
its a condo mostly owned by canadian snowbirds
my friend Keith bought a house a couple house down
you can paddle out from his backyard straight out to the point
he was going to eventually retire there but like surfdog he's pissed that he may have to sell it with the new short term rental laws.
I think ants (kaipo's pop) bought tally ho's house just before the clearing. Probably hangs out with Bruce and the other retirees all day.
makaha doesn't feel the same as it was when rell and buff used to hang out in the lineup. Just like northshore has changed over the years. I don't venture to either place anymore just like my homebreak because it makes me sad to remember now it was. Kind of like going to hanalei these days.
lots of hawaiian chargers/hellmen
most got real jobs to feed the family
and most hate crowds
"lots of hawaiian chargers/hellmen
most got real jobs to feed the family
and most hate crowds"
Yep.
most got real jobs to feed the family
and most hate crowds"
Yep.
i hit westside last week couple times , gave one of my boards away to a guy who ripped at Tr...ks" he let easily 240lb local rip on it i was laughing ,then got to meet a couple Elders with board talk , and the whole history given to me , how hurricane Iwa blew all the sand out and how it changed the beach , history on the surfers back in the day , great people period.
Back to Snow now .
Back to Snow now .
Just came from North Shore. Spent my time getting hassled by Groms who are on a surf trip from the mainland so they can get sponsorship photos. Shouldn't they be in school getting an education? Half the lineup didn't speak english. Almost every car in the lot was a rental. And a few in the lineup were paddling for waves as if their life depended on it when it was chest high. Watched two groms hassle and snake a 50 yo lady on a body board. I remembered why I rarely bothered going out there. Talked to one guy when I was checking the spot and he let me know his son was out there and it seemed like he was doing the surf dad/coach routine. Such a different place now days.
