Thursday after work was weak and i watched for 20 minutes before talking myself into paddling out because I didn't feel like working out, paddled around chasing crap waves for an hour and then actually got a good right that took me to the beach and to a cold pint at the local beer joint, yesterday was a little bigger with random sets every 10 minutes but the highlight was the dolphins going off jumping all over the place outside and getting as much air as I've ever seen them get, and then coming right under us multiple times with a couple little ones in the mix, then they took off with me on a wave, water was really clear too which made it even cooler, then i went to home depot and got myself a new weed whacker for valentines day, today looks like a good day to try it out and maybe a lb sesh later.
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
worst session in probably a year or so.
mayhem fronts felt good in the fuse driving down a shitty closeout wall
mayhem fronts felt good in the fuse driving down a shitty closeout wall
Sublime and jdj joined me at the secret sandbar #1
Knee to chest high peaks on the fuse box as quad with the EA set ( superb )
Lots of fun waves for everyone and clean conditions
Nap time
Knee to chest high peaks on the fuse box as quad with the EA set ( superb )
Lots of fun waves for everyone and clean conditions
Nap time
Both NS and south shores expecting an incoming swell but both were small this morning so I dawned Bowls. Lot closer if I got skunked. Waves were small but saw a peeler from the beach so went out with the Vesso twin fin.
Waves were stomach high with an occasional bigger one. Got one toward the end of the sesh that hit the reef right. It stood up and looked like it was going to close out but I tagged it and the twin just took off and I got in front and tagged it again. Then the wall straightened out and when I went to hit it it felt like the wave was breaking away from me so I fell. The wind blew my board over the wave so I didn’t have to swim. Paddled over to Rockpiles to catch one in.
Before I went out the RPS crew were in the parking lot and we started talking about the corona virus. I said so far 2% mortality rate. One of the guys said yeah only the old and weak are dying. So I told him goodbye Gerard. Everyone laughed but Gerard replied you’re old too. I told I’m in way better shape than you. Hahaha.
Waves were stomach high with an occasional bigger one. Got one toward the end of the sesh that hit the reef right. It stood up and looked like it was going to close out but I tagged it and the twin just took off and I got in front and tagged it again. Then the wall straightened out and when I went to hit it it felt like the wave was breaking away from me so I fell. The wind blew my board over the wave so I didn’t have to swim. Paddled over to Rockpiles to catch one in.
Before I went out the RPS crew were in the parking lot and we started talking about the corona virus. I said so far 2% mortality rate. One of the guys said yeah only the old and weak are dying. So I told him goodbye Gerard. Everyone laughed but Gerard replied you’re old too. I told I’m in way better shape than you. Hahaha.
Fun little waist+ peaks on the WMD. New mayhem mediums were ok, but happier with the NVS peregrines or JJFs
Wife and I and Vizsla spent the weekend over the hill, so I visited a very popular spot on an obvious day. I haven't surfed there for over a year, but eeeeverybody seems to love it. Soft, fat burgers, mostly.
Fark, 40 cars parked there, with about 50 dudes spread across three spots. Managed to almost get into a fight with an idiot with anger management issues (I'm super mellow) at the shitty sectiony right, then paddled south and surfed the fast (but not hollow) left. At least you could get some speed runs, but jeez what a mess.
Warm water, though, and afterwards we went to a pub nearby overlooking an estuary and beautiful big hills and had good beer and fries in the hot sun, and life was good.
Looking forward some more powerful waves at my usual spots.
Fark, 40 cars parked there, with about 50 dudes spread across three spots. Managed to almost get into a fight with an idiot with anger management issues (I'm super mellow) at the shitty sectiony right, then paddled south and surfed the fast (but not hollow) left. At least you could get some speed runs, but jeez what a mess.
Warm water, though, and afterwards we went to a pub nearby overlooking an estuary and beautiful big hills and had good beer and fries in the hot sun, and life was good.
Looking forward some more powerful waves at my usual spots.
Last edited:
Dawned Bowls and surfed for over 4 hours. An early south has been forecasted and it looked like it was slowly filling in yesterday. Was trying to decide between Bowls or my NS spot. The howling wind decided it for me. Paddled out in the dark on the twin fin. Waves were good, head high plus and hitting the reef at a good direction. The weekend crowd wasn’t too bad mostly the regulars. Only thing the waves would pulse then a long lull. We try to share and keep track of whose turn it is when the crowd isn’t too bad. So the lulls felt longer cause you know the next one isn’t yours if it’s not your turn.
These were the best waves I rode the twin on yet. Board felt great, paddles into waves easy, goes fast, surfs vertically and can surf on rail at high speeds. Had a couple of sections I had to step on the gas to make and when I got around laid into some long roundhouse cuttys into whitewater rebound. Super fun board. Hope you guys are scoring on this long weekend.
These were the best waves I rode the twin on yet. Board felt great, paddles into waves easy, goes fast, surfs vertically and can surf on rail at high speeds. Had a couple of sections I had to step on the gas to make and when I got around laid into some long roundhouse cuttys into whitewater rebound. Super fun board. Hope you guys are scoring on this long weekend.
I would kill for an overhead wave right now. Decided to gamble and wait for the tide push. Wind wasn't too bad, but the crowd was thicker and kookier than anticipated. Took the TKF out for some easy speed, but probably should have taken the flat tracker
Surfed the left bar until the building swell started closing out the channel. Got a few really fun ones but the inside section was pretty hairball. Got my ass kicked on a few double ups. Had one land on me as I was duckdiving and thought for sure my board was gonna buckle, felt it bend in my hands and then snap back. Shortly after that my buddy took one in and I followed.
We stayed in our suits and drove back to the local to terrorize the Sunday crowd in the small, clean right handers. Waves ended up being pretty fun and the crowd thinned out pretty quickly after we paddled out for some reason. Rode the Banjo fish for the first time in a while and it made me wonder why I bother with anything else when it's under head high. Such a good boar.
We stayed in our suits and drove back to the local to terrorize the Sunday crowd in the small, clean right handers. Waves ended up being pretty fun and the crowd thinned out pretty quickly after we paddled out for some reason. Rode the Banjo fish for the first time in a while and it made me wonder why I bother with anything else when it's under head high. Such a good boar.
Did not have much expectations for yesterday and was dragging in the morning, eventually got to my usual around 9:45. Pleasantly surprised. Was about waist to chest high with only a small handful of people up and down the beach. Had my own peak all day. Rights peeled a bit while lefts were wedgy. Some closeouts but remarkably consistent. First wave I got was one of those closeouts, wave tugged on the leash a little, and swivel just completely failed. Smallest wave I have ever broken a leash on by far. Was comical. But conditions were not exactly harrowing so no worries.
The wind came up a little about 5 minutes after paddling out but the tide flipped and waves got real fun on the push. The consistency was beautiful. Got at least 40 waves in the 2 hours I was out - when I got to the car and looked at the time, I laughed that it wasn't even noon yet. Last wave was a lined up right, got a nice re-entry and roundhouse cutback on it, and that was a good one to go in on (it was tough but I did not renege on my deal with the ocean of "one more good one and I'm heading in"). Beautiful day out with almost no people. Locals summer continues.
The wind came up a little about 5 minutes after paddling out but the tide flipped and waves got real fun on the push. The consistency was beautiful. Got at least 40 waves in the 2 hours I was out - when I got to the car and looked at the time, I laughed that it wasn't even noon yet. Last wave was a lined up right, got a nice re-entry and roundhouse cutback on it, and that was a good one to go in on (it was tough but I did not renege on my deal with the ocean of "one more good one and I'm heading in"). Beautiful day out with almost no people. Locals summer continues.
Finally took the 5’10 X2 out. Got to Bowls really early and paddled out in the dark. Told the crew if I fall on the first couple I don’t want you guys to see. I roast them so much I expect it back.
First wave got in easy and I was I little deep but the board just took off. Did a figure 8 cutty and slid a little on the rebound but made it. Got another similar one then the boys started to paddle out. Got three right in a row right through the dawn patrol crew. I just started paddling for them while asking no one wants this one? They were laughing at me frothing out. Then the set of the morning came in and I had to let them go cause I frothed out on the last two. Waves were fun head high plus but lully.
Got three good boards in a row that have been fun to surf. Was a little worried getting back on a shortboard since I’ve been riding the twin, the Moonfish and step ups but the 5’10 feels good.
Got a bunch of fun waist+ rights and even a couple lefts on the TKF. Never had to share a peak with more than one person, spent most of the session on my own peak, and was up and riding every 3-4 minutes. Best surf in a while
paddled a few miles. got a fun wave in. ran back, grabbed the longboard for a few. knee riding the prone board was so much better.
a small handful of fun ones on the fuse but overall soer of meh. a dude approached me saying my boar looked like a lot of fun so we talked stamps for awhile. He may put in an order.
mayhems feel good on that board. I want to try it as a truster just for chits & giggles
mayhems feel good on that board. I want to try it as a truster just for chits & giggles
Been putting some effort into surfing a few new spots. The Untitled has been the call because it handles such a wide range of conditions.....steep takeoffs, flat sections, lumpy and bump. Whenever I'm questioning what to ride, inevitably I'll grab the Untitled and it makes the most of it. Hard working, blue collar style board. Love it!
This morning the heavens aligned to surf my favorite spot. Pulled out the Picklefork asym because it cleaned up a bit and there were some longer lines to be had. Haven't ridden it in a while and man did it feel good to slice through the water with surgical like precision. Total scalpel!
This morning the heavens aligned to surf my favorite spot. Pulled out the Picklefork asym because it cleaned up a bit and there were some longer lines to be had. Haven't ridden it in a while and man did it feel good to slice through the water with surgical like precision. Total scalpel!
Lounged around the house this morning with Mrs Pato. We finally started the Search around 9:45. We checked out Hueneme, Silverstrand and Shores to no avail. Decided to drive up towards Rincon but were sidetracked by an emergency toilet stop. Ended up heading back towards town and lucked upon an old fave spot that hasn’t broken in ages. Today it was nearly perfect and we scored it all to ourselves for a little over an hour. It was solid chest high with glassy lefts and rights. I chose the 7’5” Widowmaker today for those deep bottom turns and down the line speed. Soooooo much fun. Mrs. Pato scored some longgggg rights as well. We celebrated with a basket full of grilled shrimp and fish tacos. ♂
Nice one T!
I wouldn't be surprised if that was the remains of our 4-day swell feast down here. There was a very solid SW hitting NZ west coast, then Fiji, then we got 4 days of pumping SSW on the east coast. Timing's right.
yep. A little more west in the first day of the swell a little more south today. 4 day swell sounds good we got at least 1 1/2 days left of fun south swell. There’s waves all over.
Jeannie Chesser texted me this pic of Haleiwa this morning. She meets up with some of Todd’s friends and has breakfast at Cafe Haleiwa and goes to Ali’i to spread some flowers and pour a beer for Todd’s birthday. Kelly was there today.
waited for the fog to clear and went down to the beach and ended up surfing for 2 1/2 hours , small clean, glassy, sunny, lefts and rights, i caught so many waves today, my shoulder is aching bad, good news from my mri though, my rotator cuff is ok, but my ac joint is pretty jacked with arthritis and inflammation. but the joy of riding waves is greater then the minor aches and pains and sleeplessness and shooting needles in my shoulder joint and anger and depression... jk, it aint that bad yet, but as trifad used to say, its a race to the bottom..
More fun small waves at my local this evening. There was a surf coach dad on the beach doing his best Charlie Medina impersonation, pointing and whistling while the current swept his 12 year old son out of position over and over. The kid can surf alright but he's far from ripping and honestly if he's not busting full rotation airs by this age I think his WCT hopes are already in the toilet so I say just chill the F out and let him have fun.
I brought the Banjo fish and the Fling down to the beach for a little head 2 head grovel showdown but I ended up just riding the Fling because I was tired of watching a friend bogging on his thruster and offered him use of the Banjo. Watching him try to shred the pocket with the heavy backfooted approach of a life long thrusterer was highly offensive to me but he was having a blast so I didn't bother trying to school him on the fine art of twin finning.
The Fling felt pretty great. Conveyor belt current was a free ride back to the lineup if you knew how to use it. Caught about a million waves and really started to jive with the board in the latter half of the session. Ran the older honeycomb Roberts large quad set which I always liked but which have been lost in the big box of fins for a while and they seemed to be a good balance of drive and pivot.
I brought the Banjo fish and the Fling down to the beach for a little head 2 head grovel showdown but I ended up just riding the Fling because I was tired of watching a friend bogging on his thruster and offered him use of the Banjo. Watching him try to shred the pocket with the heavy backfooted approach of a life long thrusterer was highly offensive to me but he was having a blast so I didn't bother trying to school him on the fine art of twin finning.
The Fling felt pretty great. Conveyor belt current was a free ride back to the lineup if you knew how to use it. Caught about a million waves and really started to jive with the board in the latter half of the session. Ran the older honeycomb Roberts large quad set which I always liked but which have been lost in the big box of fins for a while and they seemed to be a good balance of drive and pivot.