*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
7,682
12,216
113
in da hood next to paradise
Epic 3 1/2hr session yesterday at one of the best rights in the North Island.

Long period swell. Solid OH. 200-300m rights. 2 others out, then solo. My body is wrecked today, but very very happy and stoked and deeply satisfied otherwise.

Should probably have been on the Ghost, but the Pyzalien was fast and fun and never let me down.
how do u not cramp up with sarfing that long?
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,551
113
Innzid
how do u not cramp up with sarfing that long?
My calves sometimes cramp up after a while, but mostly when I have a frustrating surf where I can't seem to glide into waves. Makes me tense up on takeoff.

Yesterday I just got slower and more tired, but I probably paddled 8km+ in total, and I am an old fool, so no surprises there.

I was planning to surf till dark, but the wind swung, and I got too tired, so called it a day a few hours earlier.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
lol. it was definitely funky down south today too.
Post-high tide session at a popular La Jolla reef. Watched a local on a keel fish carve a solid HH right as I paddled out and thought "this is gonna be fun". Guess there was still too much water, cause we then waited out the back for 40 min(!) and everything that looked like it was gonna be catchable just backed off until the inside. So much for a quick session. Finally after the long lull, they started breaking outside: chest high wedges at first, then bigger HH walls to race. One after another, like a conveyor belt: get one, paddle back out, catch another right, repeat. Had so much work to get back to, but I just couldn't go in after waiting so long. Dozen waves in the last 40 min made up for the lull and I left smiling.
5'10" Rusty quad fish went well. I didn't bother to change out the Powerdrive hatchets that were in the board, so all my mistakes and jagged turns were blamed on them. Definitely the arrow and not the archer. LOL. Just too unpredictable in these steeper waves and stick in funny moments during a bottom turn or when releasing so I've gotta relegate these to <waist-high or mushier waves (when I still think they have a benefit). Going to try Machado split keels and then TylerWarren quads next in this board.
 
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b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
meetings ended and i whipped down to the beach took one look and was straight out there and it was glassy and pretty good, nobody sitting where I like to sit, and i got 3 right off the bat, two guys 100 yards south took notice and paddled over, 2 guys sitting too deep figured that out to, i guess i did have students today even though it was an inservice day without kids, eventually more people paddled out and it became a 3 ring circus and i paddled down 150 yards and found a solo spot, not as good but better if you get my drift and my drift was south with the current. kenson double wing swallow quad still feeling good...
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
23,098
113
Tower 13
Rode Tanner's girffin quad this morning. Problem was surf was much bigger than it looked. Got 4 or 5 pretty fun ones but got caught inside twice and just got stuck on the treadmill. Board is fast as can be and those fins feel so good. Board seemed a little tracky but it could have been due to the length and where my feet were. Coming down with a cold so I might be out for a few. Bummer since I'll be out of town all next week for work
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Been working in town so I’ve been just dawning Bowls. Got there in the dark and noticed Les wasn’t there yet. Les has OCD and every morning he sweeps the sand off the parking stripes so he can see them when he parks in his usual spot. Sometimes I help him do the 4 or 5 spots around his. This morning I grabbed the broom out of my truck and swept the sand over the stripes in his spot. The dawn patrol crew were cracking up.

I surfed small but fun Bowls then paddled over to Rockpiles to see if Les figures it was me. Soon as I got there I lucked into a right, got a little bs turn and paddled back out to sit more on the lefts. Les must’ve figured it out after he saw me and yells, “you Faka, gotta be you.” The whole lineup starts laughing. Haha.

When was changing at my truck Les drove by to leave I waved bye with my broom. He gave me the finger.
 
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Lowqi2

OTF status
Mar 17, 2013
251
382
63
Score some good OH at local reef yesterday. Stayed glassy the whole afternoon. Went to same spot this morning, much more wind swellish and bumpy, but some nice wedges to be had. Surfed out this past week.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. It’s small and high tide. Got one decent off the lip on a closeout. Mostly sh*t talking in the lineup. If the tide was lower would be better. Saw A nice sunrise so I told Jeannie look for your IG post. Told her I’ll take a pic of you taking a pic. Hope you guys are scoring.

27BCD2A6-2BB5-4074-9A15-CF29D2E87BC7.jpeg
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Went down to Cliffs to meet up with ReTodd's buddy to buy his Stamps blunt-nosed TKF. Chunky 4-5' rights on the sets at the N peak. Lots of paddling. Sets were popping up outside, but still had to be right under the lip to take off, even on the bigger ones. Was a little too deep on the first couple, and spent most of the ride trying to catch up to the shoulder and get around the first section. Found the right spot, and got a couple cleaner set waves that allowed for some carves. Board handled late drops, went great in the steep faces and felt tighter / more locked-in than the average twin fish (harder tucked rail, fins close to the tail). Did exactly what I wanted it too. Stocked, Todd! Guess you guys will have to make some room on the Stamps bandwagon.
EDIT: my plan to reduce my quiver is NOT going well. This month: sold 1, bought 3. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. :ROFLMAO:

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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,860
7,759
113
San Francisco, CA
10 highlights from 1995 via Friend #1

***Sun Jan 1

11:00 – 2:00

Overhead, offshore Stinson

Rode Blue Vinson & some on Doof's Zinger. Backside Tube ride on the 9’4” Vinson. Then, the coffin ride from a close out tube.

SW Swell



Thu Jun 15

6:00 – 6:30

The end of the White Knife. First wave at Kelly’s broke it in two. Rode with Doof on Zinger, #2 on FunGun in stormy overhead surf. Big South swell beat by N.W.



Sat Jun 17

8:30 – 11:00

Rode Blue Vinson w/ Doof on Zinger &…my wife on Freeline. She’s Back. She rode 2 long waves. Didn’t want to push it. Oh, we were riding the XXXXXXX on the last of the Big South. Shoulda been here Fri or Thurs. But still fun. Lots of long Rides. Long Paddles. Rubber Arms.



Sat Jul 1

8:15 – 10:00

Rode Blue Vinson w/ Doof on Zinger. Butt-high XXXXXXa (only break working today, glass though small). Board takes a tumble and ends up straddling the centerline of HWY 1.



*Sat Jul 15

8:00 – 11:30

Rode Eaton w/ Doof on Bonzer in head-high fun peaks, some outside and some inside.

6:00 – 8:30

Rode Stewart for evening glass-off. Some fun rides. One screaming wall curving in front of me at sunset.



*Sun Jul 30

7:30 – 10:30

Rode Stewart alone at overhead XXXXXXXXXXXXX. Started on the outside. Winter-like over-head & a half slow motion drops. Then rode the inside walls. Rode ~ 20-30 waves, some pocket rides. Caught a right from behind the peak & drove it with two guys down the line grinning. “That’s why I’m here. That’s why we’re all here.”



**Sat Sep 23

11:00 – 2:00

Rode Stewart w/ Doof on Zinger on double overhead XXXXXX in SC. About 10 rides, extra-long. Probably 7 Double-O’s. Two real big drops from behind the peak. One just barely made it in and drove it all the way from behind. 20 sec period. Surfed w/ Bobby Owens.



Sat Oct 21

8:00 – 11:00

Rode Stewart w/ Blake & Rick & my wife on Vinson at Church (San Onofre). Those three traded boards around. Swell was very small and Point was crowded. High-tide killed it. Fun to surf with the whole gang though.



*Sun Nov 19

11:00 – 12:30

Rode Lil Miller w/Doof on Bonzer at Double-Overhead XXXXXXX. Hammered on the paddle-out, almost turned back. Got 4 rides, no wipeouts. Concentrated on getting up. Last ride I figured out that turns are faster. Had to duck-dive under two Longboard/Guns. Whew! [Opening Day] 10’ – 14 sec. 20 minute paddle-out



*Sat Dec 9

4:00 – 6:00

Rode Stewart w/Doof (arrived later) on Bonzer at shoulder to head high XXXXXXXXX. Offshore & glassy, got two right tubes in a row. Tons of great rides. Birthday surf was one of the best sessions in a while. 5’ 10 sec.

.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls just cause it’s been the routine for the last few weeks. As the light peaked over Diamond Head we could see there were some waves. Bigger than yesterday, almost head high but with the extreme west angle. Paddled out to Rockpiles Right and caught a long shot right off the bat. Got a bs hack. Whew, had to make sure my board works backside too. Haha.

Caught a couple more rights just make sure then just sat over on the lefts. Waves were fun since the tide was letting them stand up more than the last couple days. I think my Moonfish makes sections easier than the twin cause it’s longer with more volume but the twin is a tad bit easier to turn. Nice to have choices when the waves are small but rippable.
 

Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
7,682
12,216
113
in da hood next to paradise
well overhead on the sets today. new swell showed up early. the tweeners were shoulder high lol. waves would roll and then detonate on the inside bar. only 5 out for first hour and i got a bunch then the hordes descended. moved down to another peak with a cordial and competent crew where we traded set waves with good vibes. last wave was an easy 2 paddle roll in then after getting up it started to wall up hard so i raced it to the open section and leaned hard into a frontside carve trying to throw spray like defroster. pulled it clean and connected to the inside, tag the whitewater closeout and call it day. so estoked frens! stamps von shadow ftw!
 
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b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
wednesday i jumped in at the local point as the swell had a little pop, didn't have the mojo i had like last week for grabbing the sets and had to settle for scraps and spent a bunch of time sitting under the pack getting cleaned up, was a good work out i guess, yesterday i took a day off because i've surfed almost every day this month and needed to do PT for the jacked shoulder,, this afternoon after work i went down to the local and it was so warm and nice out (girls in bikinis weather) i was surfing no matter what but as i walked down my friend said its so fun. surfed for an hour an a half and had a blast good start to 2020 , i think i surfed 27 out of 31 days ......
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Wife gave me the go-ahead for a quick sunset surf on my way home. Waist high at the local reef as tide was draining. Wasn't expecting much, just needed to get in the water after a long, stressful day. Beautiful evening with light wind and I saw most of the waves were breaking inside of the pack. 6 dudes out: 2 sitting way too far outside, and 3 were #hardforsoftops. Quickly picked off a few racy inside waves. One of the Wavestorm clowns dropped in on me without even looking and I had to push his nose out of the way to get around; didn't make the next section. Oh well, he said sorry as he fell, and it was too pleasant out to get mad. Hustled back out and managed to get a couple bigger ones outside as the sun set. The rights were mostly just racing sections and then maybe a wrap at the end before it went fat; got one left that lined up enough for 3.5 hits that felt good. Was my 2nd surf on CC Mescaline (med Performer quads). Really fast down the line, still not sure about that tail on the turns tho. Snaps actually felt better on my backhand. Go figure.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned my NS regular. The Waimea buoy was reading 9ft 13sec. But the surf report was calling for it to drop. Brought a 6’0, 6’2 and 6’7 just in case.

Took the 6’2 out. Waves were all over the place. A few feet overhead. There’s a west swell and a newer north that crossed it up. Plus with the shorter period so lots of waves. Some wash throughs. There were some double ups too. On days like today if I haven’t had a chance to surf a lot I would force myself to stay out and get one of those double ups. But been surfing almost everyday so it felt like work out there. Did manage to get a long runner and hit the lip and get a couple of wraps in. Hopefully it sorts itself out by tomorrow.