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Getting a double barrel....

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,143
28,705
113
...just means you missed out on a longer single barrel because you weren’t deep enough!

post your “rules, definitions, quirks funny observations“ about surfing here.

or not.
 
One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,231
10,431
113
33.8N - 118.4W
I remember one time when my local had a sand bar that had a barrel right at take off, then would back off, but had an inside shore break section with another barrel. The inside one was fun because you could see it forming and back door it. If you got the right waves you were guaranteed two barrels. No way to stretch it out into one long single barrel... That bar lasted a couple weeks. Good times.
 
One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,231
10,431
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Duffy LaCoronilla said:
Dawn patrols are over rated.

Sunset sessions > than dawn patrol.

10am is the best time to surf.
Click to expand...
Where I am I can always get a half hour to an hour by myself if I go out early enough. By 10 am the onshores pick up and the crowd has filled in. Lame time. Maybe midweek at a reef break. Most sunset sessions are blown out.

Depends on the spot. I've had great sunset sessions at Leo Carillo when camping there.
 
Mr Doof

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,924
7,840
113
San Francisco, CA
Duffy LaCoronilla said:
Sunset sessions > than dawn patrol.
Click to expand...
1 Dawn has greater chance for offshore or still winds for me

2 Dawn means I don't have to slather on the sunblock

3 Dawn means I don't have to squint to keep the sun out of my eyes

4 Dawn means better parking

5 Sunset means lower probability of all of the above

Ergo, for me, I must disagree with the assertion sunset surfs > than dawn surfs.
 
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Drumsurf

Drumsurf

Billy Hamilton status
Nov 4, 2012
1,397
275
83
Beach
I agree ^^. I'm all for sunset sessions if it's clean but there will always be a crowd of after work dicks then.

9:30am is great sometimes. The pre work crowd has already left. Just got out of the water at scripps and the crowd was much better than at 6am today. Tide was better too.
 
K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,015
21,433
113
The Bar
Second shift is almost always better crowd-wise than dawn patrol. I can't surf either during the week until summer so moot point generally. So sunset sessions are the norm. My usual stays pretty hollow even with a moderate (10 -15 mph) onshore, especially on a dropping tide. A little messier but windswell does create wedges. Zero crowds too.

Sometimes if it's a late second shift on weekends, I want that onshore to come up. People scurry away as soon as wind gets over 2 mph onshore and it doesn't take long to have it to myself again.
 
Duffy LaCoronilla

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,143
28,705
113
You guys aren’t getting the concept of thread. It’s not for commenting on my comments.

Make your own damn comments.

Like...

”Cold water wax works better in cool water than cool water wax.”
 
TeamScam

TeamScam

Miki Dora status
Jan 14, 2002
5,525
1,160
113
Mid-Atlantic
There will always be the guy who claims it was better earlier, even if you get there only an hour after first light sometimes.
I always feel the fishy vibe first thing as well.
There is often a warbling wonkiness first thing too.
For a couple months it's significantly colder before the sun comes up.
EC means the sun will be in your eyes.
Ducks fly better often before sunrise but I prefer a semi-auto to a double barrel.A-H-Fox-CE-Grade-12-Gauge-Double-Barrel-Shotgun-Mfg-In-1910_101116535_70986_B943CB5F4434D388.JPG
For ducks anyway. Double barrels are good to look at, but you really want to do the doggy door, or a little Joey Buran 80's style head dip to sport the Wow factor.
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,015
21,433
113
The Bar
Duffy LaCoronilla said:
You guys aren’t getting the concept of thread. It’s not for commenting on my comments.

Make your own damn comments.

Like...

”Cold water wax works better in cool water than cool water wax.”
Click to expand...
I can't believe epoxying my tailpad (4th one for that board) to the deck after having it not adhere as Shaq sized handprint worth of delam actually fucking worked! Oh but I know I will pay for this later. And same board is out for repair for large rail disintegration issues. Beyond what I can fix. Ugh. But had that board over 10 years.

Oh. Yeah. Purpose of the thread.

At least in Socal, HPSBs are still gold standard (at least under 8')and everything else is a situational gimmick.

Flame away.
 
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K

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,015
21,433
113
The Bar
If it's crowded and you can't spot a kook to sit on and snag waves off, you are that kook.

The odds of you flailing while missing the zipper on your suit increase exponentially with the number of people in the vicinity. Hot chicks nearby that you want to bang? The increase is geometric

The louder you claim a wave before taking off, the more likely your leash will catch around your ankles, through two sets of toes, and around at least one testicle.

The longer you wait for a set, the more likely you paddle for the first one out of famishment and then screw yourself even if you make it.

The best way to make a wave come to your peak is to paddle away from it.

Fight a longshore current for 5 minutes and the rabble that was pissing you off is long gone.

Strong dropping tides negate onshore winds but you gotta really want that wave.

If you paddle in a bit to catch inside scraps out of desperation, guaranteed set of the day with at least 10 waves in it will land on your head. Oh and you got no scraps.

When you're ready to get one last wave, don't say it, don't even think it as Mother Ocean is telepathic. You will be skunked for at least 20 minutes. Gets worse as sun is way past setting.

Alluding to above, the bargaining with Mother Ocean starts with "OK one more good one" to "Damn it one more good one ridden competently" to "Ok whatever just let me get a few turns" to "anything is good" to "You fucking whore! Send something!" to "I'm over this sh!t and moving to Idaho with the rest of the doomsday preppers". And sometimes further. But you never paddle in.and you always get that last wave no matter how dark it is.
 
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G

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
3,958
3,514
113
I'll never forget my first double barrell. 1994. Big Jetty in OB. Big mixed up swell but wind went offshore right before dark. Grabbed a peak and pulled in. So deep. Spit out. Flew into the inside section where it was dredging in 2 foot of water. Sand sucking tube. Spit out again. It was almost dark. As I walked up the beach a guy was standing by the stub jetty and said that was an insane double barrel.
 
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