Anytime is a good time after you put on your wettie- I’ve done it in the lot, before I bike down, you name it. Being pre-diabetic, I pee a lot and often.
What I hate most is when I start and the set of the day comes, and you have to stop to get in position for the wave.
Stoke to get a session in before the heavy rains arrived. First hour was clean, oily glass chest to hh sets - the waves blended into the grey skies. Waves were peaky and surprised shape held up despite - low tide. Water got cold and glad to be in a 4:3. First wave was the best one - fastest...
Beautiful afternoon at the local. Maiden Voyage on a new to me Stamps Banjo long fish. Water temp dropped a bit, but conditions was sheet glass the entire session. Started with inconsistent waist to chest high for first hour. Then a long lull of like 45 mins but I knew fresh wnw swell would...
Beautiful afternoon at the local reef - 6” Hawaiian (so it’s about waist to chest high for us Californians. A bit inconsistent but lines up beautifully when they come. Caught a handful of nice cruisy glassy lefts and called it. Get it when you can cuz there’s not much out there in the forecast
Cars stopping at the red light with too much space in front of them - preventing you from getting into the left turn lane.
Loud gym bros that let go of their weight machine - causing excruciating loud bang
Afternoon perfection(close to) at local reef. Looong lefts and rights shoulder + . Glassy and very manageable crowds. Last wave was a right that kept going but after kicking out there was a small wave right behind it - board clocked my head at the hairline upon coming up. Small bruised and...
Peaky hh a frames at the local. Pretty powerful beachies - backed off on a few - too old to take risks especially on a new board. Rode the Corey Graham quad channelled twin - supa dupa fast. Kinda digging it.
Got a 2mm and 4:3 isurus full. Zipless and CZ. Had to have both cinch cord repaired. No flushing, warm, good fit. The 4:3 Evade is a bit constricting around the neck and the 2mm area around the butt does some weird peeling which I’ve never seen before in any wetsuit