Surfed twice for the first time in 4 months. Thursday evening glass off. Took the 7'2 Hess Traveler Gun. Rolled into a few mushy outside bar waves. Knee felt OK popping up, dropping in and easing into a bottom turn.
Took the 7'4 Son of Cobra Twin today. It was cleaner and lining up nicely. Was...
Weed is alright. I smoked a lot between 18-22, then took a big break before getting into it again several years later. I've been off and on over the years. If dosed correctly, it helps me relax and focus, especially on creative work. It's also a nice way to chill out and enjoy a record or movie...
Maybe HPSB with five fin boxes is the reason that people find quads finicky. I tried my Ghost as a quad with many different setups and never liked it. My dedicated quads are great in most waves.
But a tight, bowly pocket and I'm taking my one remaining thruster or twin.
I try not to think about it! I swam from China Beach to Deadman's point and back the other day, and it was definitely on my mind. Lot of swimmers do that route daily, though, and no attacks in SF since 1959.