Right now? Based on the waves we had over the past two weeks, I can narrow it down to these three.
6'0" OG MTF for the tubes.
5'8" Maurice Cole Reverse Vee for the tight shredz.
7'4" Mandala Clandestino for the steeze and hipster street cred.
More tubes for dawn patrol at another bar. A beautiful sunrise with glowing clouds over the Gulf Stream and loads of fish popping in the surf zone. Long glassy rights and a handful of sneaker lefts. The consistency dropped with the falling tide but it stayed fun until about 8am or so.
I don't think it has to be dogmatic, but I like the idea of paying homage to those from the past and embracing tradition in a way that suits your worldview. I think it is important to remember your roots. It gives you perspective in the present and while looking towards the future.
There are few things worse than getting into the rhythm while enjoying a tranquil sunrise or sunset session, only to have a standup paddleboarder with an large gut ruin the view with his hunched-over, unathletic silhouette.