Becoming an older surfer

sponge

Tom Curren status
Feb 10, 2002
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Quickly blossoming thread. For me:
--Noticed a transition at 50; declining physically ever since; learned to accept it
--Need to get into a fitness regiment; yoga, walking and water photography of course
--Fast-twitch reactions slowing. Any recommendations?
--Amusing that so many are turning to the boogie; attitude used to be toxic here

And if you need further motivation, Jock is an inspiration in his 70s.
JockSutherland_Ehukai_191129_NealMiyakePhoto_1200sig.jpg

Looking forward to listening this:
 

92122

Michael Peterson status
Jul 29, 2015
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So many bits of advice here that parallel my own discipline that I don't even need to post anything.

Find out what works for you, but make it something and do it regularly. Very few people have the discipline to do it ALL.

Shocking to me that many middle aged dudes can't even touch their toes and hold a stretch. Yikes.
 
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Slabsplease

OTF status
Mar 5, 2015
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What age is old?
Treat your Temple with respect in all ways possible. Stop drinking alcohol. Stop all drug use and your justification of it. Exercise daily/weekly. Make it a priority. Show your body all types of tension/resistance when you train (not just one type or two types, but many/all types, powerlifting/calisthenics/yoga-stretching-swimming-running-cables-db's-static holds-ETC). Don't let parts of your body (ligaments/tendons/muscles/compartments/etc) become dormant. Wake them up, keep them alive with movement that stimulates them and reminds them of their purpose. Eat foods directly from the earth with zero to very minimal processing. Don't eat "products" or "packages". All fast food and anything processed is just chemicals (lab food). Stay away from powders of any kind (whey, or the latest trend). They are made of the crudest materials/ingredients possible to achieve what's on the label (and the label is typically incorrect). You can get everything necessary from fruits, vegetables, properly raised meats/eggs/etc, nuts, legumes, seeds, you get the point and have heard it before (and it's cheaper). Cook at home, put your energy, your pots/pans, your utensils into circulation vs. the dirty environments of restaurants. Restaurant clean isn't home clean (unless you're a slob). There is a saying in the restaurant industry "work at your favorite restaurant for a week and you'll never eat there again". Hate comfort and short cuts, despise laziness. Feed your senses (especially sight/taste/hearing) wholesome things, not smut, bitter humors/garbage. All of it is related to a healthy Temple. I know watermen surfing in their 40's, 50's, 60's that could challenge any one in the water (and on land) athletically. They all follow the above and recognize how short life is. They want to give themselves the best opportunity possible and not squander this gift of life with purposeless pleasures that most repeat day in/out and get nothing from them but pain/regret/weakness. It's not easy, but show the above to your body and watch what unfolds. Respectfully...
 

bonzer5fin

Duke status
May 9, 2006
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61, pretty much at the same level as 41. i just refuse to stop moving and doing what i like to do. skating has suffered the most, to be honest. i just don't want to slam. it takes longer to recover from soft tissue injuries, body jars last longer, overall soreness. stretching and yoga help bigly. and water and food. be mindful.
 
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npsp

Miki Dora status
Dec 30, 2003
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This is such a well timed thread. I'm 57 and am dealing with most of the issues brought up in this thread. Running and yoga have been a big help in keeping myself limber and somewhat fit (I'm carrying an extra 10lbs.)
My biggest issue is shoulder pain and lack of horsepower in my shoulders. I don't have that solid burst of speed that I relied on for years to get my share of waves. I also frequented a pretty good beach break for the last 40+ years and am having a hard time coming to grips that it might not be my spot any longer due to the competition for the waves I like.
Due time availability and crowds, I have transitioned over to mostly bodysurfing and really enjoy it. I'm a crowd of one and get all the waves I want. Plus it's a good workout. I also broke down and bought a longboard a week or two back and have had fun being a kook surfing the spots that I didn't even consider as spots until a short time ago. And who knew so many cute girls surf?
 

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
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I'll take the Keith Richards path...
Enjoy your life
 
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PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
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Kauai's north shore ~
Part time neighbor 80+ y/o Henry Ford in front of the restaurant.
View attachment 162680
Great story talker and he’s got a bunch of them.
3565.jpeg
Henry, back door photobombing at Hap Jacobs paddle out in Hermosa Beach after he got out of the water. 9 / 8 / 2022:roflmao:Henry was Haps 1st salesperson on the floor at 422 PCH in Hermosa.
 
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sussle

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Oct 11, 2009
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This is such a well timed thread. I'm 57 and am dealing with most of the issues brought up in this thread. Running and yoga have been a big help in keeping myself limber and somewhat fit (I'm carrying an extra 10lbs.)
My biggest issue is shoulder pain and lack of horsepower in my shoulders. I don't have that solid burst of speed that I relied on for years to get my share of waves. I also frequented a pretty good beach break for the last 40+ years and am having a hard time coming to grips that it might not be my spot any longer due to the competition for the waves I like.
Due time availability and crowds, I have transitioned over to mostly bodysurfing and really enjoy it. I'm a crowd of one and get all the waves I want. Plus it's a good workout. I also broke down and bought a longboard a week or two back and have had fun being a kook surfing the spots that I didn't even consider as spots until a short time ago. And who knew so many cute girls surf?
just my two cents but i think the cost of running far outweighs the benefits, in terms of wear and tear on moving parts, for us older folks. ymmv.
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
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View attachment 162692
Henry, back door photobombing at Hap Jacobs paddle out in Hermosa Beach after he got out of the water. 9 / 8 / 2022:roflmao:Henry was Haps 1st salesperson on the floor at 422 PCH in Hermosa.
:roflmao: He’s never backed away from publicity.

The last time I saw him he’d just got out of the water and was combing his hair Fonzi style in the mirror of his car.

He was one of the OG shop managers in the South Bay and then in San Clemente for Velzy. Jacobs had a very talent loaded team back then.