Courts was fun. Got some fun fast ones and a nice barrel. Very inconsistent, but I did see one bomb out at castles from courts. It lookEd like Cloudbreak.
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Giant South Swell this weekend for Hawaii's South Shores
- Thread starter PPK96754
- Start date
had, not have. she's back in moscow. oh well, plenty out there.
When I worked the bar scene in Waikiki in the 80's, we'd get off work and hit the bars that stayed open till 4:00 AM. Drive down to panics and guys would already be standing in the parking lot and watching the waves. Small kine talk, the morning would be cool. The first glint of sun over Diamond Head and you'd grab your fins and head for the water
The scent of the old tuna packers processing plant in Kewalo Basin lightly sweeping over the lineup with the tradewinds as the first wave was taken by someone. Crisp, diamond like droplets illuminated by the rising sun, flying off the top of the curling wave till it ends at the rock wall..
One wave, one bodysurfer. It's always been like that at Point Panic's.
That is a wonderful little bit of writing PPK.
Thanks for sharing it.
Loved it.
Take care.
100K views · 7.3K likes | Safer Beaches Down Da Road / pray for Maui on Instagram: "Legendary One of the sickest in n outs I’ve ever seen in town This unknown Hammah stuck it hard!! Tag um @christiant.15 ♂️ @diegosantos808 #town #magicisland #southswell #yessah #hammah #summer #reels #stoke"
7,392 likes, 106 comments - sandybeachsurfreport on July 16, 2022: "Legendary One of the sickest in n outs I’ve ever seen in town Th..."
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Dangerous conditions in the water and on shore as ‘historic’ south swell rolls in
A high surf warning for all south-facing shores remains in effect.
www.hawaiinewsnow.com
Look on the bright side, you can hookup with @gbg ! Don't forget your Jimi pants for Hotel St. fun.
Can't wait for this to show up. Our reefs gonna light up, hopefully. Probably should book a flight to Alaska.
Even on her knees, she comes up to his chest. The Geometry just doesn't work.
Nah, apparently GBG doesn’t even like his beloved secret spot above chest high
and @ElOgro will you ever be happy for me? I really don’t know many more people who have a more fulfilling and adventurous life while still holding down a New York City based career. I even brought down a bunch of brand new, still tagged childrens clothes for the kids, and a few boxes of school supplies, and at the advice of my hotel concierge, I left them by the donation box at the church in crucecitas
i also gave the guide my hypto krypto. To say he was stocked is an understatement.
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Maybe it's time for a trip to Moscow?
Picture this. Dr. know plays Red Square.
You could set up in front of the Kremlin walls next to Lenin's Tomb.
That would be rad!
Stop whining. I'm happy for you no matter what. Save some gear to give away in the 808.Nah, apparently GBG doesn’t even like his beloved secret spot above chest high
and @ElOgro will you ever be happy for me? I really don’t know many more people who have a more fulfilling and adventurous life while still holding down a New York City based career. I even brought down a bunch of brand new, still tagged childrens clothes for the kids, and a few boxes of school supplies, and at the advice of my hotel concierge, I left them by the donation box at the church in crucecitas
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i also gave the guide my hypto krypto. To say he was stocked is an understatement.
Thank you. My whining is only a passive aggressive way to keep bragging about how perfect this week was. And even though we missed what “might” have been the best secret session of the week, it WAS pretty cool to surf the marquis Barra with a minuscule crowd. Last day was far from subway’d. Even Friday with the crappy winds was a really fun tourist day. Also- I’m not REALLY getting my panties in a bunch. The reality is, the more you break my balls the more I feel the love
(heavy breathing)
Edit: oh whoops there was already a thread by baliidiot with other/more footage
Edit: oh whoops there was already a thread by baliidiot with other/more footage
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Tahiti swells are like 3.5 days to Hawaii, so if they were towing Wednesday then yesterday was just forerunners, today is the swell.
headed to a novelty wave today
headed to a novelty wave today
I just don't know where to go unless it's the west side
I know it's awesome, but I am terrible at Town
A water main broke last night and washed the bridge out at Kahana. Kamehameha Hwy is closed there, probably for a while
Prob just ride mountain bikes until winter
I know it's awesome, but I am terrible at Town
A water main broke last night and washed the bridge out at Kahana. Kamehameha Hwy is closed there, probably for a while
Prob just ride mountain bikes until winter
It’s too big for most spots. Bowls is closing out the channel every 5 minutes.
Dawned Queens. First time I surfed Waikiki in at least twenty years. It’s been a minute since I’ve walked that sidewalk and paid for parking to surf too.
We just sat inside and went for reforms that were still a little overhead. First wave got a really long left. Didn’t really know what the wave was going to do and probably sped past the barrel section. Spend the rest of the sesh looking for another chance at a wave like that. Saw a couple of incredible tube rides.
A bunch of guys I knew were filtering in and out. Made a mistake asking where to sit and each one told me something else. Got more confused than I already was.
Rode the 5’10 4X which was fine but could’ve rode a flatter rocketed boar and if I wanted to try to snag an outside bomb would’ve been better on a 6’4 or longer. Waves were coming in fast and the current was ripping so need the foam to chase sets down.
Pretty tired. So much swell in the water.
Dawned Queens. First time I surfed Waikiki in at least twenty years. It’s been a minute since I’ve walked that sidewalk and paid for parking to surf too.
We just sat inside and went for reforms that were still a little overhead. First wave got a really long left. Didn’t really know what the wave was going to do and probably sped past the barrel section. Spend the rest of the sesh looking for another chance at a wave like that. Saw a couple of incredible tube rides.
A bunch of guys I knew were filtering in and out. Made a mistake asking where to sit and each one told me something else. Got more confused than I already was.
Rode the 5’10 4X which was fine but could’ve rode a flatter rocketed boar and if I wanted to try to snag an outside bomb would’ve been better on a 6’4 or longer. Waves were coming in fast and the current was ripping so need the foam to chase sets down.
Pretty tired. So much swell in the water.
Drove all the way out west but didn't go in. Ma'ili was firing, along with the end of the road. Everywhere else was meh.
Went to Magic Island and Bowls was mostly carnage. Swam to Baby Haleiwa. Surprising amount of current out there. After getting dusted on the sets a couple of times, I cut the sesh short.
Went to Magic Island and Bowls was mostly carnage. Swam to Baby Haleiwa. Surprising amount of current out there. After getting dusted on the sets a couple of times, I cut the sesh short.