yacannotwinifyoudonotplay.I caught about 20 waves today and blew pretty much all of them.
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yacannotwinifyoudonotplay.I caught about 20 waves today and blew pretty much all of them.
Do it, not getting any younger! I feel like DOH Sunset is pretty reasonable if you're surfing sizeable OB. It's not until the sets start hitting 8ft like the clip I posted (rest of the set was bigger than that wave) that it starts showing it's fangs. Smaller like 6ft days with fewer people out are my favorite, and significantly less scary.Really want to surf Sunset one day. Reminds me a little of a tropical OB.
Spot A for me was not empty.pretty fun runners at first light that turned into slopey skateable waves on the tide push. spot b was empty. couldn't believe it
The pith of OB right here.Just felt like a big day even though it objectively wasn't. A fun type of shitty I guess.
LOL I don't miss that. Was this at the tide rock or Bean?Out with the usual morning crew. HH-OH waves, 10-11 second period. At first thought south "channel" would be workable and while changing watched one friend and another get absolutely chewed and held in place by washing machine. Crazy because looked like clean paddle but no. So I would outsmart this and go on north side. See someone else 50 yards ahead; quickly catch up to him and think oh yeah this paddle out will be cake. WRONG. Not even that powerful but just relentless, held in place for an intolerable time, after many inventive cuss words, 20 minutes later or thereabouts, finally through that sh!t.
Actually a really fun left that formed up out of sandbar but waves with fast incoming tide were super burgery, actually more like burgery on outside and then double up on inside happened and well hahaha, well. You didn't really know how they would break until you were over that ledge. Some rights worked but others would bend enough to bottom turn around section and just see next 50 feet go whump. Ugh. But many good lefts that bowled with a decently forming sandbar. And then you usually got fucked on the paddle back out. Good cardio; justifies the post-sesh coldies. Got several fun lefts although it was really warbly. I am OK with the new 6'6" I got, figuring its quirks but one annoying as fook thing is that it does not spin and go well at all. Too much nose foam, funky rocker, whatever, it's a fault. Oh well. Still, last left I got was deep with people scratching from inside so I definitely had to make the bottom turn but glided around the section right into pocket as whole wave feathered way down line in complete froth (bigger one broke through first), got some speed through it taking a high line, a little cutback around and about before wave petered out just a bit off the sand.
Oh yeah, fun item, paddling back out after a wave, duck dive, come up, and right off my right hand is a damn sea nettle, about a foot across. Thought I avoided it but weird thing is left thumb is all tingly, slightly swollen, itchy, and a general pain in the ass. Wonder if I got tagged paddling as tentacles went under board? Weird sh!t,
Tide rock.LOL I don't miss that. Was this at the tide rock or Bean?
Yeah that was my first guess. The north "channel" is almost never easier unless you're way down the line heading over to the Boneyard, and the longshore current typically runs in the wrong direction from there to get back to the tide rock left. All part of the fun.Tide rock.