Hawaii- Done

hammies

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Apr 8, 2006
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Its the frequency that's the problem a 10 year+ cycle would be better than the typical 5 otherwise it's just an extended vacation
Pretty interesting, I like this guy's videos. It brings up something that I think has been changing worldwide for a while. Used to be, if you were an immigrant (this applies to anywhere), there was heavy pressure to adopt and conform to the culture of the place you moved to. Assimilation. In the last few decades, the philosophy of immigration has changed - many people believe you shouldn't have to conform to the place, the place has to accommodate you and your culture. It's the melting pot vs. salad bowl analogy. I am for sure a melting pot guy - if you move somewhere go native as much and as fast as you can, which sometimes puts me at odds with some immigration activists I know.

Somehow I suspect this also applies a little bit to mainland transplants in Hawaii, which I wouldn't mind being one of some day.
 

oneula

Miki Dora status
Jun 3, 2004
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Oh yeah. Here’s a good story about Kurt. I can’t remember his name but he is a retired NS lifeguard lieutenant. Possibly a Kamehameha 1887 alum. Anyway he paddled out to Kurts spot by his house on an SUP and started grabbing. Kurt yelled at him. Something like I’ve known you all my life and you’ve always been a dick and I’m going to beat the cr*p out of you. SUP duu paddles in as fast as possible and he sees a couple on the beach and asks if they have a cell phone. Yes. He tells the guy call 911 I’m going to get assaulted. Guy and gf tell him to f*ck off. Turns out it was Kurt’s son. SUP guy escapes cause Kurt wasn’t going chase him down the beach. SUP duu hasn’t surfed that spot since.
that wasn't GeorgeK was it? George was a year older but I wouldn't think George would do that to Kurt or vice versa.
Brian made me a custom board when were in high school a pretty good amateur shaper back then. At the time we idealistically were dreaming of getting into the business after high school Brain would shape/glass and I would sand and sweep the floors somewhere in the country. Never happened as I went off to the mainland and never returned for a long time.

There's a myth that Brian high on acid paddled out during a contest at waimea in the 70's and actually caught a wave before getting chased out of the water.
 
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PJ

Gerry Lopez status
Jan 27, 2002
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Pretty interesting, I like this guy's videos. It brings up something that I think has been changing worldwide for a while. Used to be, if you were an immigrant (this applies to anywhere), there was heavy pressure to adopt and conform to the culture of the place you moved to. Assimilation. In the last few decades, the philosophy of immigration has changed - many people believe you shouldn't have to conform to the place, the place has to accommodate you and your culture. It's the melting pot vs. salad bowl analogy. I am for sure a melting pot guy - if you move somewhere go native as much and as fast as you can, which sometimes puts me at odds with some immigration activists I know.

Somehow I suspect this also applies a little bit to mainland transplants in Hawaii, which I wouldn't mind being one of some day.
My daughter just got out of a two week quarantine in Japan and just arrived at Joetsu City on the left coast across from Tokyo, she's there for at least one year probably two as an English instructor in Japanese public grade schools. They have surfing there and also a ski mountain nearby (it's actually where an Austrian taught the first Japanese to ski in 1912 or so). Although it involves teaching it's not really a teaching job or a job that's a stepping stone to become a teacher - it's a cultural exchange program run by the Japanese government although she's paid by the local school district.

I'm an assimilation / when in Rome do as the Romans do kind of guy and my wife who grew up in the Philippines is that kind of girl and so is my daughter but also everything she's read about the "Jet" (Japanese Exchange something) program she's in and how to get along in Japan is assimilation based. She made sure not wear a sleeveless shirt on the plane and bought (OK I bought) a black suit (without a dress slit at all since she wasn't sure) because in Japan everyone shows up for work in a black suit the first day (no, navy blue not acceptable). She's also taught herself how to speak, read and write Japanese and studied their customs extensively, which was fun because she wanted to explain it all to us as she learned.

My wife is very happy that my daughter had to do a ton of paperwork and applications and interviews (they accept about 1 out of 4 applicants) just to be able to go and work in Japan and that my daughter now has a Japanese Alien card (no, not an immigrant card or a foreign worker card - it says Alien) so that my daughter can learn that our existing American immigration laws are not cruel and unusual but are just the way the world works. Also the Japanese government is taking automatic payroll deduction out of her salary by law for her health care insurance so no, that's not free either elsewhere.

My wife has a friend she grew up with in Manila who has lived and worked in Japan for 40 years and does as the Japanese do. She was actually just taking about another Filipino who just arrived in Japan to work recently. He was saying to her he wanted to do things at work the Filipino way because the Japanese way was dumb. She said to him "I left that sh*t in the Philippines 40 years ago. You can't do it the Filipino way in Japan. If you want to do it the Filipino way you can go back to the Philippines and do it there. But you won't make any money".

Anyway - we're pretty psyched to go to Japan to visit my daughter, do some surfing there and also finally meet this Japanese Hamboard skateboarder who's a dentist and surfs, skates and seems to drink champagne an awful lot in restaurants in Tokyo who we know from Hamboards on Instagram. As soon as travel to Japan opens up again that is :jamon:
 
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hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
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My daughter just got out of a two week quarantine in Japan and just arrived at Joetsu City on the left coast across from Tokyo, she's there for at least one year probably two as an English instructor in Japanese public grade schools. They have surfing there and also a ski mountain nearby (it's actually where an Austrian taught the first Japanese to ski in 1912 or so). Although it involves teaching it's not really a teaching job or a job that's a stepping stone to become a teacher - it's a cultural exchange program run by the Japanese government although she's paid by the local school district.
What a life-changing adventure for your daughter!
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
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that wasn't GeorgeK was it? George was a year older but I wouldn't think George would do that to Kurt or vice versa.
Brian made me a custom board when were in high school a pretty good amateur shaper back then. At the time we idealistically were dreaming of getting into the business after high school Brain would shape/glass and I would sand and sweep the floors somewhere in the country. Never happened as I went off to the mainland and never returned for a long time.

There's a myth that Brian high on acid paddled out during a contest at waimea in the 70's and actually caught a wave before getting chased out of the water.
I know George he was my manager at Local Motion and is like Yoda to my sister. Saw his brother Kent at Burrell’s paddle out.

Kurt’s beef was with Edmond P. Called Jeannie cause I can never remember that tool’s name.

Brian still shapes his own boars or salvages broken boars and repairs them. Lots of them at his beach. Don’t really know his brother Sueo, I’ve met him, but he recently retired as a fire capitan on Kauai.
 

PPK96754

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Apr 15, 2015
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Kauai's north shore ~
I know George he was my manager at Local Motion and is like Yoda to my sister. Saw his brother Kent at Burrell’s paddle out.

Kurt’s beef was with Edmond P. Called Jeannie cause I can never remember that tool’s name.

Brian still shapes his own boars or salvages broken boars and repairs them. Lots of them at his beach. Don’t really know his brother Sueo, I’ve met him, but he recently retired as a fire capitan on Kauai.
Pestana ~ :sneaky:
 
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oneula

Miki Dora status
Jun 3, 2004
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circle of life
yup Edmund was part of our waterpolo gang at KS and more of a lifeguard than a fire captain like George. Edmund although a known waterman, has always been a notorious wave hog his ex-wife used to man the tower fronting courts super nice lady and good surfer too. George was my go to shaper along with GG back when. He was my substitute in place of BK customs. I can see Kurt pounding Edmund (country versus city). Edmund and George are KS classmates but George never played polo with us unlike Keone who loved drowning us underclassmen with guys like Riley Smith, coach Bill Smith's son.

Interesting story, I picked up this pure glossy white used epoxy/EPS fireball like channel bottomed fish from surf-n-sail(next to kuu aina) in the early 90's, really interesting board and ride. My brother was telling Edmund about it in the lineup at courts one day and it turned out it was an old board of his. This was early surftech days. George eventually ordered a container of his own pop-outs that took him forever to sell them all $25K a container(minimum Cobra order) from what he said. George is an adopted Ewa Beach thug since he's a cousin of Kekoa Bacalso's father Tony. George used to surf O'beach all the time before the navy gave up Barbers Point. Used to see him and his wife paddle boarding beach park in the 2000's which is why I thought it might be him. Also it you talk to him like other shapers he pretty much invented everything from the C5 which he said rusty stole to the inverted panel vee which he said some other guy stole. Love talking to shapers, they all have their stories.

I'll let my brother know about Neuman. Isn't he a lawyer?
My brother worked with another brother Sy at Hawaiian Electric. All the kids were excentric. Their mother Marion was super nice very hawaiian. Pono reminds me of her. Liko Martin is her son from her first marriage.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
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Different George. Know who you’re talking about but don’t know him.

Brah, once your knee feels solid or semi-solid that invite to dawn patrol Bowls is still open. No shame too. Lots of old timers that can barely walk thru the parking lot but still are called into waves. Local crew and assimilated Nihonjins show our elders respect.
 

oneula

Miki Dora status
Jun 3, 2004
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Although I spent most of high school running away from her to look "cool" to my peers, I miss her and her love for us dearly these days, soft in speech but a backbone of steel.
so much aloha all gone now.
Aunty Nona, I wished I realized how much you had to offer us back then.
When ever I got caught she would yell out my full name till I came over so she could give me a hug and tell me how much she loved our family she grew up with. Always embarrassed back then as a stupid "surfer boy" instead of being proud of the aloha she was giving me.

 
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Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
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9 second ENE swell and gusting winds on a 3 day weekend? Sounds awesome. I love paddling out in howling winds and east swell. The waves are fun and it is never crowded.
 
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