***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[oeste858]

The wife gave me a rare weekend surf pass since I been having to do more of the kids’ school dropoff/pickup with our new schedule.
The main reef was fun around 8am. Maybe 10-12 guys, mellow crowd with only a couple good locals. Punchy chest high wedges, with some longer rights on the sets. Got 2-3 good ones on the plasmegg.
On the biggest one, boar was a rocket- almost too fast and I couldn’t quite stall enough for the one decent cover up section. Thing wants to fly out onto the face on any wave with some push. Surfs been so small lately, I wasn’t ready for that speed. Will try to surf it more up & down next time. It did hold well through the carves on the open face. But with the flat rocker, probably save this one for the slopey softer days & spots…. like a mini mini glider.
Rising tide shut it down after the first half hour, so finally caught an insider after sitting for the last 20 min, catching up with a couple guys.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned my NS regular. Threw my 6’2 and 6’0 in the truck. Rode the 6’0 M7. Could’ve surfed my 5’10. Waves were on the way down from yesterday and it was high tide and too west for my spot. But still head high plus and the water felt cleaner than the Ala Wai and thicker, not as brackish. Got a couple of snaps and wraps. Nothing special but it was a nice change of scenery and good to catch up with the regulars I only see during the NS season. From what I was told it was bigger but funky yesterday too. The early country swells are usually weird and it can get crowded. But there’s waves around the compass and more to come.

 

[teeroi]

Back to the town regular and it was firing from first light for about 2 hours. Way better than expected considering the high tide and weird buoy readings. The NW swell gets picked up by the Barbers buoy and can get confusing since the Lanai buoy is offline. Old fashion way drive down to the beach and check.

Rode the Moonfish cause I though it was going to be high tide semi-groveling waves. Good thing that boar has a lot of performance built in it. There was a twelve wave set early on. Everyone out got one from shoulder to HH plus. I had seen the one I wanted on the set before so I told the crew to go. The one I was looking for rolled in and I got a vert snap into a layback, a wrap and even made the closeout reo at the end. Old man 8 pt ride.

Funny thing happened on the beach. My friend Trish was stretching and getting ready to paddle out. I saw Les and the rest of the dawn patrol pervs on the bench so I stood behind her with my boar blocking their view. Next thing I knew I could hear small rocks landing on the sand by me. I laughed and looked back and they were waving me out of the way. Haha

 

[Muscles]

Paddled out to a NE side break yesterday morning. First solid swell of the winter season. First hour was variable winds and solid overhead + waves. Firing waves with long lines and plenty of fun. Not too crowded and just the regulars. I think the instagram crowd must have went further north for the insta clout.

Surfed the used Tokoro 4X that I just picked up. Paddles really well and has that performance board feel that I've been missing. Tempted to order a bigger one for a step up since I liked it so much.

 

[Mr J]

Used my expensive GPS tracking video camera for the first time yesterday. Upon viewing the result my first impression was its tracking the wrong person, that looks like a 60yr old donkey out there .. oh wait, I was the only one in.

I am thrilled with the technology. Automatically zooms in and out, works very well. This is the optic 25. The less powerful zoom of the ones on offer. Absolutely fine for what I want it for.

 

[Iceman]

Left for the east coast a couple weeks ago. You're all welcome for that big south swell shortly after.

Got home saturday night, went surfing north of town yesterday morning. Bigger than I thought it would be as the NW swell was pulsing right along. Super glassy and well overhead on some slopey rights, which was great (as always) on my 5'5'' twin fin. Ocean7847 was out. After an hour, the swell backed off a little, the tide crept up, and the crowd came out. My hands got cold, I drifted to the other peak and got a wave it. Didn't feel too rusty which was nice, especially considering the size and cleanup sets.

 

[MathDebater]

Quick yawn patrol with my buddy this morning. The tide was a bit low for this spot but it slowly got better the whole time. I rode the manta and my friend was on my first banjo. The manta was perfect for the conditions but I wanted to ride my old fish so we traded off. The banjo practically felt like a short board compared to the manta but man, such a good board. He has the surf squared keels in which I was hot and cold on, but I was hot on them today. It made me want to go back to EN's in my current banjo, to get that big ass fin drive back. I got a ton of fun ones on both boars.

 

[oeste858]

Main reef looked nice but 30 dudes out so I opted for 45min afternoon sesh at reef #2 with 7-8 people out. As I was paddling out, 5 guys came in and the wind died down. Stocked, just me and another guy trading chest high long rippable rights, and one kook on a FW longboard taking the shorter lefts. The conditions were much better than I expected and ended up really fun. Other guy had some nice bs carves and I realized he was on a Twinsman. Might be the second album I’ve seen in the water. Resisted the urge to chat about the boar cause dude was muttering to himself while waiting and groaning every time he missed a wave. Maybe he just had a bad case of the Mondays. LOL I thought it was fun out there. Two more dudes paddled out during a lull for my last 10 min, but I managed to find an inside left to go in on.

First surf on 5’7 CyberSim (thanks @donger !) in XTR stringerless. Forgot how light that build is! Nose & rails are pretty foiled and my first thought was this is gonna be too small for me. After the success of MR +trailer in my GMM2, I went with Rasta twins+trailer. Had to paddle hard with my chin over the round nose to get into the softish waves, but once up… the boar flew with that familiarity of GMM2 but with a little less swingweight up front. Had several fs slashes and wraps that had that “hot knife through butter feeling”. Was really hoping this didn’t work so I could move it on… but now I’m afraid it’s another keeper in the chest high waves which most my boards go best in!

 

[MathDebater]

Master of the chest high board quiver!

 

[oeste858]

Master of the chest high board quiver!

Too bad we don’t live somewhere it gets chest high more often!
It felt so smooth. Totally channeled my inner RK… shoulda worn my sleeveless longjohn suit!

 

[teeroi]

Dawned the regular this morning. Smaller than yesterday and less consistent. Did manage to snag a couple of nuggets. First one got a running section I had to drive around to set up a top turn. Came off the bottom with speed and the section flattened out and my board went over and I went under. Didn’t have much time so instead of sitting inside and surfing myself into rhythm on smaller waves I sat and waited for another set to go in on. Got one and did a layback but didn’t know I was so close to the whitewash got bucked off. Had a good sesh yesterday and got nuggets today but fell. That’s the thing I worry most about getting old. Lack of consistency performance wise. Need a little blue pill for these days.

 

[rowjimmytour]

Too bad we don’t live somewhere it gets chest high more often!
It felt so smooth. Totally channeled my inner RK… shoulda worn my sleeveless longjohn suit!

I need to work on knee to chest high I have far to many good wave boards for 805

 

[santacruzin]

swell not doing it yet . was fun rode the tomo v4. Have a feeling this swell is going to peak tonite in the dark

 

[rowjimmytour]

swell not doing it yet . was fun rode the tomo v4. Have a feeling this swell is going to peak tonite in the dark

Full moon 'Lane is a trip

 

[MathDebater]

Same spot as yesterday, trunked it on the Banjo because it looked better than yesterday. The good waves were definitely better shape than yesterday and even a couple of mini barrels on the right ones, but the rest of the waves were lower quality with lots of super flat sections. I should've gone Manta again but I still got a few fun ones. My best wave was a late drop to big stall for a very forced head dip, followed by a couple carves and a nice close out waaaaahpaaaah.

 

[000]

couple sessions at dawn lately were barely breaking yet a bunch of dudes came out anyhow, to both plan A and plan B
everyone brought friends

 

[santacruzin]

Have a feeling this swell is going to peak tonite in the dark

and fuck looks like I was right

 

[teeroi]

Dawned the regular yesterday. It was the smallest it’s been in weeks. Got two fun ones that I found a pocket and did a couple of wraps.

Today even smaller. Passed. Suppose to be a bump in town and NS is brewing up something in a few days. Not worried.

 

[CutnSnip]

pretty effin fun this morning in SLA, possibly as fun as it gets round here. peaky chest to shoulder high and consistent. pretty crowded and kooky but stayed in my lane and caught a ton of good waves on the Flare. Back is a little sore from this last run of swell so felt a little stiff but got a few fun head dippers and had a couple turns on my frontside that felt really good. only wish I had more time to shred, this creep up to the time change is killing me and once we go full daylight savings pretty much surfing during the week will be minimal so trying to enjoy the warm water and time in the water as much as I can. Gonna hit it again tomorrow, looks like there will be fun leftovers.

 

[Lowqi2]

Peaky 4-6’+ Combo #3. As good as it gets at my local . May have to do an evening session if wind holds