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That depends on who's watching and where we're surfing. I think shortboard HPSB aficionados would give me the nod on a 5'9 Fred Rubble at let's say head high Macaronis compared to Alex Knost on a 6'8" BMT. Out at waist high Sano, I'm sure the majority of surfers would give Alex the nod. I personally not a fan of Alex's surfing, nor him as a person in my albeit limited time being around him. Surfing style/perceived performance is extremely subjective. Surfers that I admire and try to emulate such as Dane Reynolds, are fans of Alex's surfing.Pacey, Kerr, Burch, Knost, Martyn, Bryce Young ... Who here is surfing better than them on their Fred Rubbles?
Opinion disregard is the height of motions of rippage.I think there is a certain subset of surfers, well represented here, who believe that standard high performance thruster surfing is the only legitimate form of surfing and everything else is a pale imitation or lesser.
You can agree, disagree or ride what you like and disregard those opinions. Personally I've kind of outgrown that attitude and prefer watching and riding longer flow-ier equipment in most situations. At some point I realized the surfers I most liked to watch at my local break were riding various forms of mids (this was before the mid length explosion of a few years ago and the guys I'm thinking of were both in their 20's) and got myself one and haven't looked back.
so, the duuu in this story is you, right?the funniest is when an older longboarder is out at a shortboard spot when there are shortboardable waves the duuu says "I would've brought my shortboard had I known," when said duuu has been saying that to everyone since the 70's
That's when you realize you have wasted your whole youth trashing your body and wants to enjoy the little you have left before geriatric diapers start getting in the way."Almost 40" is prime of life. I've been that age for 12 years so I know.
why u got to hate on us old guys so much bra?so, the duuu in this story is you, right?
Pacey and Kerr rip. I have no idea who Bryce Young is.
I think everyone who has ever stood up on a Fred Rubble is surfing better than Alex Knost (when he's on his longer stuff). But I think cruising is wave misuse unless it's shin high point surf, and I don't care how hard it is to approach the lip at 10 degree angle of attack, toss your hands and your head, and then descend the face 10 degrees below flat, on some Nixon-era hideous winged swallow single fin.
IMHO you give Martyn a 6'4"-6'6" relaxed rocker thruster and he'd be surfing better instantly.
Style is hands-down the least important and most overrated aspect of surfing. If you're this worried about style and how you look, take a look at your sun-damaged grill in a mirror sometime, move to Milan, stop eating, and dress like the locals.
There. You're stylish now.
Thicker, wider, EPS.The trick is to find a shaper who can upsize shortboards to work for you as you age.
GG is great at this