0.3 liters doesn’t seem like a noticeable difference. Order the wider oneI heard back from Shey.
5'0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4 = 24.6L
5'0 x 18 x 2 1/4 = 24.3L
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Tomo MPH
- Thread starter VaB
- Start date
Agree 100%. Go slightly wider and have (emotionally) more range.
Notice: Stringerless with red carbon/kevlar combo.It was called the Dribble Whisperer... i think RK and Dan came up with that name because the waves are always so small in SoCal (like a dribble) and that board worked so well in small conditions. I actually think the GMM2 is an updated version of the Dribble Whisperer.
I remember that video as well. Really good footage of Dan riding those early models. I managed to boot-leg download a copy of the Vader footage before it was taken down and reposted it on YouTube but didnt download the Dribble Whisperer one. Dan is ripping lowers on a Vader!
PS: Dude throwing the board at the end (3:40 or so) is just painful. "Um... thanks? Please don't try to help me next time."
Thanks for the input guys. I just placed an order for an GMM2 and Hydroshort round at XTR.
Yeah... draggin feet a bit.@ReForest you still foot draggin'??
I've settled on the dims (5'1 x 18 x 2 1/4) just need to man the f-up and YOLO the order.
I'm buying a new board and I need some help from my fellow erBBs! I'm in the market for a new good wave board that'll excel in shoulder to overhead+ waves. My local spot is OB and my daily driver is a CI Rocket 9 in FlexBar (5’9) with AM Twin +1 that is perfect in punchy waist to head-high waves but begins to feel a bit loose and under-gunned in more juicy stuff. I was thinking of getting a Tomo Hydroshort with the Roundtail (5'9, 19/14, 2 1/2, ~30 liters) since it seems like it has some good range and lively performance. Just wanted to get the erBB thoughts on the questions below.
- 1. XTR construction: I’m thinking Parallel Carbon since it seems to be more durable overall. I really want this board to last since I’m paying $$ for it, and I’ve really enjoyed the longevity and durability of my CI R9 in FlexBar. Does PC in 8.C make sense for both performance and durability? Almost want to get the 8.0 for maximum durability, but it seems like people here think it’s too heavy.
- 2. Hydroshort dims are all over the place online; Tomo has his at 5’9, 19 1/4, 2/12 at 30 liters, while XTR has them at 5’9, 19 3/8, 2 9/16 at 31 liters. I’m inclined to go more towards the narrower/thinner Tomo dims since it seems like XTR can come out feeling extra thicc at times. Thoughts?
- 3. Lastly, was hoping for some ride reports on the round tail. Does it shift the upper range of the board as much as Tomo states (4-8’+)? I want this as a good wave daily driver (fall/winter OB) so really need it to feel solid in head-high to overhead surf.
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I had a 5'9 Hydroshort with a squash tail from XTR; it was sick. I got it with the red carbon-kevlar. That's more than enough insurance. XTR boards last forever. I've still got a Hydronaut that must be coming up to 4 years old, and it still looks in perfect condition. The Hydrosquash was great in punchy river mouths and sucky beachies. Took it to south Sumatra for a couple of trips and it handled well in overhead waves at a thumping beach break. Used my Hydronaut at the reefs, but I've surfed it at some other reefs here and it was good too. I can't remember exactly why I sold it, but I think it was to make room for some Burch boards...
I remember watching this vid again and again back in the day. Just next-level surfing. Still looks so impressive today. Smooth, radical, stylish, airs, flow...It had it all! Plus it was filmed by the infamous "Milky EVO" Patrick!It was called the Dribble Whisperer... i think RK and Dan came up with that name because the waves are always so small in SoCal (like a dribble) and that board worked so well in small conditions. I actually think the GMM2 is an updated version of the Dribble Whisperer.
I remember that video as well. Really good footage of Dan riding those early models. I managed to boot-leg download a copy of the Vader footage before it was taken down and reposted it on YouTube but didnt download the Dribble Whisperer one. Dan is ripping lowers on a Vader!
Yup!
lol.I love how Tomo has been more active on his IG. His stories about board design and theory has been cool to read.
@HalfBlood415 I’ve had 2 of them (1 in XTR and 1 in TomoTech) and they’ve both had a shorter rail line when compared to the squash-tail (the 5’6 round-tail felt like my 5’5 squash-tail). So if you like the length of a 5’9” I would suggest ordering a 5’10”.
Concerning durability, I don’t think the parallel carbon adds any. It’s supposed to provide better flex, than a traditional middle stringer, through your turns. I like the feeling but I hate the way it looks. Concerning durability and longevity I would suggest getting color to avoid yellowing and either wood stringer or high density blue stringer with carbon.
Concerning thickness, my last 3 boards from XTR have had – what I would call – “thicker rails”. XTR is also more buoyant (IMO) than most standard Epoxy so my last ordered I ordered the rails 1/16 thinner and the board came out like I hoped and the float was perfect.
Concerning performance, I don’t notice too much of a difference. But I usually take the rounded pin out when there is a lot of power in the water because, theory suggests, that a rounded pin has a thinner tail and has less surface area so it sinks down in the water more and provides more hold and control. So I rely on that when deciding on the squash vs. the pin tail and usually go for the pin tail.
no posting until you order the GMM2.Yup!
I love how Tomo has been more active on his IG. His stories about board design and theory has been cool to read.
@HalfBlood415 I’ve had 2 of them (1 in XTR and 1 in TomoTech) and they’ve both had a shorter rail line when compared to the squash-tail (the 5’6 round-tail felt like my 5’5 squash-tail). So if you like the length of a 5’9” I would suggest ordering a 5’10”.
Concerning durability, I don’t think the parallel carbon adds any. It’s supposed to provide better flex, than a traditional middle stringer, through your turns. I like the feeling but I hate the way it looks. Concerning durability and longevity I would suggest getting color to avoid yellowing and either wood stringer or high density blue stringer with carbon.
Concerning thickness, my last 3 boards from XTR have had – what I would call – “thicker rails”. XTR is also more buoyant (IMO) than most standard Epoxy so my last ordered I ordered the rails 1/16 thinner and the board came out like I hoped and the float was perfect.
Concerning performance, I don’t notice too much of a difference. But I usually take the rounded pin out when there is a lot of power in the water because, theory suggests, that a rounded pin has a thinner tail and has less surface area so it sinks down in the water more and provides more hold and control. So I rely on that when deciding on the squash vs. the pin tail and usually go for the pin tail.
Thanks dude! appreciate all of the advice - I've actually been watching a few of your videos on IG/Youtube to get some familiarity with the Hydroshort so good to hear from Tomo's #1 fan! Seems like you've gotten a ton of experience on the HS so it's great to hear about your preferences.Yup!
I love how Tomo has been more active on his IG. His stories about board design and theory has been cool to read.
@HalfBlood415 I’ve had 2 of them (1 in XTR and 1 in TomoTech) and they’ve both had a shorter rail line when compared to the squash-tail (the 5’6 round-tail felt like my 5’5 squash-tail). So if you like the length of a 5’9” I would suggest ordering a 5’10”.
Concerning durability, I don’t think the parallel carbon adds any. It’s supposed to provide better flex, than a traditional middle stringer, through your turns. I like the feeling but I hate the way it looks. Concerning durability and longevity I would suggest getting color to avoid yellowing and either wood stringer or high density blue stringer with carbon.
Concerning thickness, my last 3 boards from XTR have had – what I would call – “thicker rails”. XTR is also more buoyant (IMO) than most standard Epoxy so my last ordered I ordered the rails 1/16 thinner and the board came out like I hoped and the float was perfect.
Concerning performance, I don’t notice too much of a difference. But I usually take the rounded pin out when there is a lot of power in the water because, theory suggests, that a rounded pin has a thinner tail and has less surface area so it sinks down in the water more and provides more hold and control. So I rely on that when deciding on the squash vs. the pin tail and usually go for the pin tail.
Just a few clarifications on my end - regarding the construction, since my main priorities are durability, it sounds like you recommend not going with PC; someone else recommend Red SL-CK on IG (I'm 5'11, 170lbs) but I'm not sure if that's for the performance aspects (not even sure of those tbh). It seems like you said the wood stringer or blue stringer might also be good for durability - between those constructions and the 8.0/8.C foam, what do you recommend? I don't mind paying a little extra for some durability and performance if that ends up being the more pricey option (SL-CK:$100).
I'll take you up on that extended length tip, I think I'll order a 5'10 with a slightly narrower width and slightly thinner dims (19 3/8, 2 7/16 to even out the volume).
Also, I was thinking of just going with the standard thruster future set-up since I've had 5-fin options in the past (Pyzel Ghost, Padillac) and I never really vibed with switching between quads/thruster set-ups. I feel like boards usually excel as a quad or thruster, and that the 5-fin set is a bit of a marketing scheme to buy more fins... I also feel like the empty fin boxes must create more turbulent flow (similar to a channel) and mess with the original intentions of the bottom concave and rocker (especially for a complex tomo shape). I can also use the extra dough ($40!) for a faux resin tint
. Unless you've had incredible, life-changing experiences on a HS quad, I think I'll stick with the thruster set-up.
The Hydroshort is probably one of my favorites because it has such a wide range.
I think you are right about the fin configuration. I rarely ever use the Hydroshort as a quad and when I did, it did not have the same hold or drive.
For durability I would go wooden stringer or SL-CK. Those are both solid constructions. If you have the cash do SL-CK with full carbon strip on bottom.
Most people order (myself included) order 8.C but 8.0 is good too and will not add that much weight. I bet Shey could give you an estimate in the weight difference and its probably less than 0.5 ounces.
Resin tint would be sick...
Maybe something like this too!!
I think you are right about the fin configuration. I rarely ever use the Hydroshort as a quad and when I did, it did not have the same hold or drive.
For durability I would go wooden stringer or SL-CK. Those are both solid constructions. If you have the cash do SL-CK with full carbon strip on bottom.
Most people order (myself included) order 8.C but 8.0 is good too and will not add that much weight. I bet Shey could give you an estimate in the weight difference and its probably less than 0.5 ounces.
Resin tint would be sick...
Maybe something like this too!!
Surfed with Bobby when he was riding one those and he looked really really good on it.
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I saw @ghostshaper ride one at a demo. He surfed it well. But he can surf anything well . . . .