Surfer dies at Rincon following collision with another surfer...

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
4,683
5,824
113
77
Kauai's north shore ~
This is the first time I've seriously considered quitting surfing since I started. It's getting impossible to have fun with the crowds. You have the good surfers who are frustrated and pissed off, and the hordes of clueless beginners, and the people with huge senses of entitlement because their surf coach told them they rip even though they can barely surf. That's a thing now.

I only feel safe when there are less than five people out, and guess how often that happens?

And all these years I've been wishing for a plague to thin out the crowds.:foreheadslap:
Nice to see You posting up ... hadn't seen you scribbling here for a spell ..... :waving:

nosy ole Man out ~
 
Dec 17, 2019
14
43
13
I surfed avidly for 20+ years in san diego. Never thought i could live without it. Over the years got more and more frustrated with crowds and finally said screw it this year and moved the family to tennessee (mainly cost of living reasons). I thought it would be hard for me to quit... to my suprise its been 3 months now and i dont miss it at all...especially after reading stuff like this. Its too bad this is where surfing has gotten to
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,596
3,597
113
California/Hawaii
I thought it would be hard for me to quit... to my suprise its been 3 months now and i dont miss it at all...
That is how I felt.

Stopped surfing and after a few weeks I just stopped caring. I found other things to do in my free time. Planned road trips to Ski with my wife. Went trail running early in the mornings instead of dawn patrol. It felt like the addiction part of my brain that sought waves just turned off. It helped that I lived somewhat inland and the access to surfing was the much harder than when I lived 10 minutes away from good surf.
 
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kidfury

Duke status
Oct 14, 2017
24,650
10,483
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If two people were severely injured surfing the same small wave on surfboards they must have collided their heads together
 
Dec 17, 2019
14
43
13
That is how I felt.

Stopped surfing and after a few weeks I just stopped caring. I found other things to do in my free time. Planned road trips to Ski with my wife. Went trail running early in the mornings instead of dawn patrol. It felt like the addiction part of my brain that sought waves just turned off. It helped that I lived somewhat inland and the access to surfing was the much harder than when I lived 10 minutes away from good surf.
100% this. The cool part is ive never went for a trail run or rock climb and came home in a bad mood. That was becoming the the norm with surfing
 

manbearpig

Duke status
May 11, 2009
29,772
10,245
113
in the bathroom
I surfed avidly for 20+ years in san diego. Never thought i could live without it. Over the years got more and more frustrated with crowds and finally said screw it this year and moved the family to tennessee (mainly cost of living reasons). I thought it would be hard for me to quit... to my suprise its been 3 months now and i dont miss it at all...especially after reading stuff like this. Its too bad this is where surfing has gotten to
Kind of curious, why not move to a place that is less crowded surf wise if you and your family are willing to move such distance? Was cost of living the only driving force? I guess I’m just a bit perplexed at Tennessee being the choice, although Nashville is a fun city. There’s a bunch more places on my list that are cheaper before I’d even consider TN though.
 
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vanrysss

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 25, 2019
1,630
3,668
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from Oregon, now SD
I recommend giving fly fishing a try as you get older. It's a great hobby for misanthropes and those inclined to developing addictions. Real estate near world class spots in the US is still cheaper than coastal, and travel destinations can be fantastic. Very much a skill "sport" like surfing, but all you really need to be able to do physically is walk and raise your arm shoulder high.
 

r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
17,936
9,460
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Cambria
Snorkeling and diving. Seems like you could do those. I second the fishing thing. Love being on the water in a kayak, boat or board with a fishing pole in hand.
 
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keenfish

Duke status
May 12, 2002
18,748
6,430
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Trona
www.pbase.com
I recommend giving fly fishing a try as you get older. It's a great hobby for misanthropes and those inclined to developing addictions. Real estate near world class spots in the US is still cheaper than coastal, and travel destinations can be fantastic. Very much a skill "sport" like surfing, but all you really need to be able to do physically is walk and raise your arm shoulder high.
 

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,125
113
seems like its mellowing a little at least around NOC. Have had alot of virtually solo seshs in the last week at a spot with a surfline cam right on it. This morning there were some proper nugs coming through with 6 people on it.
Which cam? Asking for a friend.
 

grapedrink

Duke status
May 21, 2011
25,938
14,725
113
A Beach
it's weird. as bitter as I am, if I spend 3 days away from the coast the first thing I want to do is get in the water when I get back.

i guess it's about how much you prioritize surfing and actually truly love it.
This. Bunch of low T dadbods bitching about crowds and justifying their lack of water time. They need to step up their protein intake, squat and deadlift numbers, and get their T levels up so they get that fire in their belly back that got them in the water in their teens and twenties.

If not, beat it kooks
 

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,527
955
113
Los Angeles~California!
R.I.P.
And peace to family and friends who will miss them
i just heard of thee death of Gerry, a short while ago,
tearz are runnin' as i type, he was a cool dude, like a brother to me,
his lil' dude will surely miss his ol' man as he grows up...
these surfpix are from L.A., b4 he moved north...
RIP, my friend!!!
randy

LA Surfpix-001.JPG
+
LA Surfpix-021.JPG
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
38,639
27,975
113
California must have some of the worst crowds in the world, EASY. Rincon probably at the top of the list.

I remember how odd it was that it was more crowded at first light than it was after 9, 10am. I guess it's because of the proximity to really big cities, people gotta go to work but they're close enough to squeeze a surf in every day.
Those pre-work desk jockeys are ruthless too.