***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[bluengreen]

Checked the cams at sunrise and it was 10 feet. Showed up at the beach an hour later and it was 20 and building, with waves breaking out to the horizon. Drove to a tucked away break inside the bay and decided to just go for a paddle cuz backwashy with bigger and bigger sets smashing the point. Overhead shorebreak made the launch sketchy. The water was moving like there was a storm but winds were dead. Ocean is possessed by demons up here today. Never seen anything like it.

 

[retodd]

Why are you still laying down? When the wave starts to break, stand up

I will remember that next time

 

[Brsnstein]

NOC regular yesterday morning had a little chop, but it was empty and the rights looked were kinda tempting. Turns it looked way better from the beach. Rips galore and best wave turned out to be left into the rip that allowed for a couple turns.

Met up with a buddy in the South Bay this morning. Spent too much time checking spots and only got 30 mins or so in before it was hopelessly closed out

 

[JBerry]

 

[Senor Sopa]

Last time I said this spot don't do barrels, I guess I lied.

Saturday's session was some kind of payback day. Paddle out at peak low time, same spot, probably be only spot I surf for next few months. First wave, I'd been in the lineup all of 20 seconds, take off late, too late, knife drop straight to Davey Jones locker. Good little wake up call. Next wave was meh, rode it far, but just felt so wrong. Third wave, too deep, guy goes in front of me, don't make it either. He apologized. Why are they always so nice on the ones that you had no chance on anyways? Few waves later, way inside, guy coming down the line, "Oh crap, he doesn't see me!". I freeze, close my eyes, brace for impact, thinking I'm gonna get a fin in the skull. Guy misses me by inches. Thing is, this is same move I use all the time. If I have to go low and around you, I won't make the wave, stay high line. After this, surf turned choppy chunky and just not fun. Of course, 45 minutes later at home with coldie in hand, I note the wind had died down.

Sunday session, same peak low tide, but uber glassy today, smaller. Wave were back to attenuated cleanness. First wave, not even trying to anything than cruise/flow. Shoot through first section with tons of speed, use that speed to do long on rail cutback in the "slow section". Pull up for the end part, doing nothing more than trimming, wave stands up, and gave me a several second slot to dry exit. I got three more gems just like this.

I think it was Doof who mentioned it's a great feeling to know a spot well enough to identify the types of waves that will break. The "deep to no shoulder", the "better be in front of it", and the "back off to super inside section" ones as some types that exist at this spot.

Funny chit.
Tide was so low, and waves not so big, that I pulled off dry hair paddle up the middle between the two peaks. Towards the end of the session, me and one guy are sitting on the boil, the apex of the peak of the reef, all others at least 25 yards away. Young woman paddles from nowhere, she must have done same paddle out, and sits 10 feet farther out and deeper, basically claiming pole position. Then proceeds to loudly yell at her buddy on the blue foamie, with 8 inches of nose sticking up above the water, "Hey, come outside, don't sit in there". I thinking "wtf?" Never seen this chick before, then she has the audacity to ask "Are any breaking farther out?". I deadpanned that some are breaking another 50 yards out, guy next to doesn't flinch either. Eyes got huge, then she figures out. She said something that I didn't hear, but responded, "You just paddled out, haven't caught a wave yet, what did you expect me to do? . I'll give her credit for knowing the jig was up, and paddling down the line to the channel, never to be seen again. I'm shaking my head, "what the hell just happened?"



Today, barely overhead for Cheeto

 

[bluengreen]

have fun today Socal!

 

[santacruzin]

Yesterday was madness! Can’t wait to see the pics.

 

[Yewstreet]

Sunday

Hungover and woke up feeling like my toe was broken, friend dropped a glass on it Saturday night. Left the mrs' place and stumbled back to my apartment to get a few hours of work done before deciding on pulling the trigger to surf down south.

Decide I've got to go or I'll regret it all week wondering "What if". Get down to SC and see all these weird random peaks and reefs going off! Barely any people in the water at this one spot so I figure it's on. Took the 7'0 retrogun out again. Paddle out looked like it would be shitty from land, but I guess I managed to time it right.

Once out the back, I could see how fast the walls of water were moving. Glad I took out the bigger board. The few guys I saw on smaller boards were struggling. Lots of face to work with and the retrogun in surprisingly agile in the right conditions. Kicked out of my last wave and saw that I was getting closer and closer to capitola. Took a whitewash in and started the long walk back to the staircase.

 

[Havoc]

Abs are sore from all the laughing View attachment 103567

pretty much why i quit surfing for a while. its like that at 6am too as well as 10am. da fk??

 

[santacruzin]

pretty much why i quit surfing for a while. its like that at 6am too as well as 10am. da fk??

My friend says surf places that scare you and its fine! problem is I am a pussy hahaha

 

[ZZ Soft Top]

Finally! All last work week my schedule, wind, and tide all conspired for one sh!tty session after another.

Saturday, I ventured north to a spot that looked promising on the cams, but was a mess of current, shifting peaks and closeout sets in-person. Still paddled out and tried to make it work, but ended up getting kind of worked and chipped some glass off the nose of my board. Rad. Frustrated and desperate on the way home, I paid 9 bucks to park in a lot to drop into close-out after close-out in glorified shorepound.

Sunday, drove farther north and finally found some shape and faces. Was able to find a relatively uncrowded peak and traded waves with one guy while the boogers picked off the steeper stuff inside. Scored a left (going backside) that made my day and pulled off a nice little turn around a booger bobbing down below.

Going to sneak out at lunch today to see what I can get.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Just crawled back from another great 2hr nooner at the draining low tide Reef. 40 guys out, but only a handful actually catching waves. My knee has been sore from all the major slashing last few days, so I kinda decided to just cruise. Caught plenty, by hanging tough on the boil, lot's of current lately. As the boil don't move, it's always entertaining to see the crowd jockey themselves too deep, then a big set comes in, and crowd is now out too far, then they drift and are back on the inside again. Couple of time, guys would do the paddle battle, only to be totally defeated by local knowledge of where the wave would actually be catchable and break, those are usually the best ones! Few bombers came through that closed out the whole place, must've been slightly overheard on those, lol. Today's premiere wave for me was way too late knife drop to momentary tail slide recover at the bottom, set rail and drive. Couple of guys were kinda blown away at what a LB'r could pull off. One set, I held tough, bad decision, two waves doubled up enough for me bail and dive, this is rare here.

 

[npsp]

Just crawled back from another great 2hr nooner at the draining low tide Reef. 40 guys out, but only a handful actually catching waves. My knee has been sore from all the major slashing last few days, so I kinda decided to just cruise. Caught plenty, by hanging tough on the boil, lot's of current lately. As the boil don't move, it's always entertaining to see the crowd jockey themselves too deep, then a big set comes in, and crowd is now out too far, then they drift and are back on the inside again. Couple of time, guys would do the paddle battle, only to be totally defeated by local knowledge of where the wave would actually be catchable and break, those are usually the best ones! Few bombers came through that closed out the whole place, must've been slightly overheard on those, lol. Today's premiere wave for me was way too late knife drop to momentary tail slide recover at the bottom, set rail and drive. Couple of guys were kinda blown away at what a LB'r could pull off. One set, I held tough, bad decision, two waves doubled up enough for me bail and dive, this is rare here.

You're not the normal logger that people are used to seeing. There's not too much trim and glide in your method. Stocked you're scoring Soup.

 

[oeste858]

Blackbird day! Outer reefs were bombing DOH sets this morning. I couldn’t get out til midday low tide, with wind already coming up so not as clean as earlier. Only had 45 min to surf, took 15 min to paddle out, lots of people over a spread out playing field, annoyingly 2 guys on every wave. I must’ve gone under 30 waves, caught 2 OH rights- one was short and ran into a big closeout on the 2nd section, the other one was better and lined up more but was still messy, and I had to ride it in so I could get to my next meeting. Stupid wind ruined the shape. Wish I had gotten out late morning. The kinda day I would’ve wanted a couple hours out there to be selective. Hopefully tomorrow

 

[Chee-to]

Just crawled back from another great 2hr nooner at the draining low tide Reef. 40 guys out, but only a handful actually catching waves. My knee has been sore from all the major slashing last few days, so I kinda decided to just cruise. Caught plenty, by hanging tough on the boil, lot's of current lately. As the boil don't move, it's always entertaining to see the crowd jockey themselves too deep, then a big set comes in, and crowd is now out too far, then they drift and are back on the inside again. Couple of time, guys would do the paddle battle, only to be totally defeated by local knowledge of where the wave would actually be catchable and break, those are usually the best ones! Few bombers came through that closed out the whole place, must've been slightly overheard on those, lol. Today's premiere wave for me was way too late knife drop to momentary tail slide recover at the bottom, set rail and drive. Couple of guys were kinda blown away at what a LB'r could pull off. One set, I held tough, bad decision, two waves doubled up enough for me bail and dive, this is rare here.

Today I'll believe the DOH+ claims, even at Crowdiff. I pulled my 8'0" out of the rafters and went hunting at a different outer reef, also in the DOH+ category. Lot of water moving today and some sick lumps to paddle into.

 

[CutnSnip]

i havent surfed since new years eve

Come home from the desert with the promise of swell and its all closed out in my hood for a week! working so I cant drive to NOC for sessions either. Hopefully the next couple days with dropping swell and a fat tide with help with the corners.

 

[ocean7847]

Well. Been quite a run of swell. Lost track of all the sessions but it’s been good. Yesterday had perhaps biggest waves I’ve seen at the spot that can handle the size - if you wanted it you could have it, just grab your 9’ gun and paddle. With a 6’3” as my biggest board, I opted for a more protected wave (and rode the 6’0). Got some decent rides, but the day before yesterday and today held for super fun conditions. Looking forward to the bump back up tomorrow to turn on the gas again. I like me some big surf, but 4-5x overhead was a bit much!

 

[doc_flavonoid]

solo'd an outer reef. tried to rally another head out of the handful that are allowed, but no takers. guys locked up with work after shining it the past couple weeks of back to back to back swell.

good call on their parts.

wind was dicing around tide was pulling like 7ft and change, swell was way too west and way bigger than the buoys were reading.

hiked and watched it for a bit. almost didnt go. probably shouldnt of but did anyway.

sat way way out the back and still got clipped by a few rogues. ugly grey on grey pissing on shore the off then side. even went glass for a few.

such a head trip solo. sorting boils, dodging death. took a few. big drops and long slopey walls that dropped me off in the channel. kept pushing deeper thinking about how long it can take to get a good one.

finally got in position and picked off a capper way deep that stairstepped through a series of bowls walled and raced through the normal take off zone and finally destroyed me backdooring a barrel section i didnt know existed. came up checking body parts and board between taking the next 4-5 on the head.

decided seeng how i was still alive for the moment prolly be good to get my ass out there before i made anymore bad decisions.

 

[feralseppo]

i havent surfed since new years eve

Come home from the desert with the promise of swell and its all closed out in my hood for a week! working so I cant drive to NOC for sessions either. Hopefully the next couple days with dropping swell and a fat tide with help with the corners.

Get yourself a pair of hiking boots. Seek and ye shall find.

 

[vanrysss]

Surfed Sunset again Saturday and today. Both long 2hr+ sessions with low wave-count. Riding an 8'2" Chapman that is way too narrow for me.

Saturday: Started around 8' faces and worked up to 12' faces. Took off too deep on my first wave and went over the falls, caught some inside ones, got rolled twice by the fkin shorebreak coming in.

Today: Paddled out a little before 3pm into fading swell still pushing out occasional 8 - 10ft faces, with a very light crowd. New swell started showing up after an hour or so, and so did the crowd. Must have been 50 people out by the time I went in, and at that point the waves were solidly in my "do not fuck with" category. Spent the last hour just watching from the shoulder.

Takeaways:
1.)Barton Lynch still surfs like a demon, 57 and still lays some crazy turns into sizeable Sunset.
2.)Any random joe that thinks he can surf as well as the female pros is delusional. Carissa and Tati rip.
3.)Trying to catch a wave at the inside bowl to take in on an 8' board is a bad idea.