Fuuuck. Hope I can get a surf in Monday morning before that madness. Definitely riding the bench when it's 15 feet at 19 seconds!
Cold, cold, cold Saturday morning. Probably in the mix with Woke AF. Tried to do the opposite and sit way out the back because there was still a lot of energy in the water and my back is 85%, so I'm not in any condition to be taking late drops on pitching 12-footers. Super crowded considering the size. Saw some HORRENDOUS wipeouts by undergunned, underskilled and overballed young gentlemen, all on blown takeoffs. For instance, watched a dude freefall to faceplant on a double overhead + wave. Waited until I could get in perfect position. Caught a quick one and then sat and paddled for 45 minutes, feet and hands getting numb, and thought about getting an insider to the beach until, lo and behold, the ocean sent a few good ones my way.
I meet a lot of interesting people here.
Met a woman red board that looked about 4 inches thick and had 1 inch thick nose. Said her dad shaped it and the board is "pretty much the whole blank."
Also saw a Canadian guy I met last season who told me he was a mountaineer before moving to San Francisco and starting surfing. He's probably 6'6 and built like a Navy Seal. Paddles Mavs and all the biggest swells at the beach, but I've never seen him catch a wave. Rides, of all things, guns shaped by Matt Parker of Album Surfboards with those anti-shark stripes on the bottom.
Cold, cold, cold Saturday morning. Probably in the mix with Woke AF. Tried to do the opposite and sit way out the back because there was still a lot of energy in the water and my back is 85%, so I'm not in any condition to be taking late drops on pitching 12-footers. Super crowded considering the size. Saw some HORRENDOUS wipeouts by undergunned, underskilled and overballed young gentlemen, all on blown takeoffs. For instance, watched a dude freefall to faceplant on a double overhead + wave. Waited until I could get in perfect position. Caught a quick one and then sat and paddled for 45 minutes, feet and hands getting numb, and thought about getting an insider to the beach until, lo and behold, the ocean sent a few good ones my way.
I meet a lot of interesting people here.
Met a woman red board that looked about 4 inches thick and had 1 inch thick nose. Said her dad shaped it and the board is "pretty much the whole blank."
Also saw a Canadian guy I met last season who told me he was a mountaineer before moving to San Francisco and starting surfing. He's probably 6'6 and built like a Navy Seal. Paddles Mavs and all the biggest swells at the beach, but I've never seen him catch a wave. Rides, of all things, guns shaped by Matt Parker of Album Surfboards with those anti-shark stripes on the bottom.