Surfing watersports has it's risks.
Look at the members of the SoCal surfers in this forum!
Of course, we NorCal don't get enough days in to get hurt
Riding big waves can be dangerous...Mark Foo.
Riding small waves can be dangerous...everyone else.
Heck, body surfing Wiamea shorebreak accounts for at least 10 cracked vertebrae a year!
And Wedge?
Every sport, gotta apply some judgement, common sense, and caution, even SKYDIVING!!!
Remember the guy with the telephone sized log thru his torso?