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Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2911574
02/10/19 08:26 PM
02/10/19 08:26 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,624
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Aruka Online content
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Another day another cobblestone pseudo point break. Took a while to get it figured out but eventually found a corner that had some fun rights. Crowded but mostly just buoys on soft tops. It's after noon and windy now so esta tiempo para cerveza beer

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2911929
02/11/19 06:18 PM
02/11/19 06:18 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,354
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


So true.

After the first kid, I was like "what's everyone talking about.....this isn't that hard."

After the second kid I surf a fraction of what I once used to. Whole new ballgame bawling


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2912000
02/11/19 07:24 PM
02/11/19 07:24 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 57,304
HB, CA
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Tell me about it. Even though I have built in surf time with preschool and my days off I still don't get in the water all the times I should be able to.

Then weekends with sports and other family activities? F me

Onshore afternoons, poor tide windows, and flat spells don't help either.

On top of that, then there's the random other stuff like ear infections and middle aged man injuries


My entire existence is a failed gotcha
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ifallalot] #2912006
02/11/19 07:29 PM
02/11/19 07:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
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Flex schedule and cool wife keeps me in the water. I got lucky.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2912140
02/12/19 12:13 AM
02/12/19 12:13 AM
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Posts: 5,624
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Bigger today and less wind. Crowd was thick mid morning and then everyone bailed and it was just me and another person or two. Three sessions and I am torched. No amount of sunscreen seems capable of protecting my gringo skin. Duckdove into the reef but thankfully my board is fine and my knuckles will heal.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka] #2912795
02/13/19 02:08 AM
02/13/19 02:08 AM
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,117
Beast Coast
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44 water. Waist to chest high, decent push. Caught a few, slow to get up. Thicker booties and gloves next time. Good to get wet, however now my hip flexor is completely locked up.


I’m just here to drink some beer and ride high volume boards.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913048
02/13/19 07:26 PM
02/13/19 07:26 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,496
The OC
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Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


So true.

After the first kid, I was like "what's everyone talking about.....this isn't that hard."

After the second kid I surf a fraction of what I once used to. Whole new ballgame bawling


Yep. That second kid is the one that really limits water time.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: J_D_J] #2913082
02/13/19 08:14 PM
02/13/19 08:14 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23,030
Tower 13
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silentbutdeadly Offline
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Thank god for my wife that's all I have to say.

Now I'm on injury two in a fairly short period. She would love for me to surf again. She knows how happy it makes me.


"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913160
02/13/19 10:13 PM
02/13/19 10:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,354
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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My wife is really cool as well. It's not her that keeps me from surfing.

It's the two kids (both of them younger than 4).

Colds, pre-school, babysitter schedules, kids birthday parties, work, home repairs, ect....

They're like miniature terrorists because they're constantly fvcking sh*t up and have an endless list of demands. toilet

coffee


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913516
02/14/19 07:04 PM
02/14/19 07:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,124
San Francisco, CA
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San Francisco, CA
Fun headhigh overhead weekend surf.

Glassy, peaky, very little wait between sets, and a crowd, but not as bad as it has been.

Friend #1 joined me but was soon lost due to the current and then he got stuck inside.

Best wave was a head-high ledging drop that went square as the wave hit the inside bar. Shoulder hopper pulled back when we saw me make the bottom turn. Thought that would snowball it, but nope, and a nice crouching highline with barrel was the payoff. Came out then cut back, bogged a little, then off to the races again, but by then it was waist high and just a speedy wall.

Took me another 15 minutes to get back out after that one though.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913588
02/14/19 10:05 PM
02/14/19 10:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,354
Oceansuck
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jkb Offline OP
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Oceansuck
Just finished surfing Tijuana Slough.

Water tasted kinda funny.


Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2913750
02/15/19 04:10 AM
02/15/19 04:10 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,574
1134
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Doheny was kind of gritty


Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper] #2914060
02/15/19 05:56 PM
02/15/19 05:56 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,798
Oceanside, CA
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Posts: 8,798
Oceanside, CA
A friend posted a picture of the San Luis Rey chocolate river flowing out to S. Jetty this morning. facelick

Got wet a couple times this week, once on the new Mandala Superchunk microlight with a few fun waves,
and once on the Manta in uber frustrating small closeouts. I'm so out of surf shape...this weather needs to stop. drowning


"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb] #2914154
02/15/19 07:15 PM
02/15/19 07:15 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,103
Innzid
M
Maz Offline
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Innzid
A week of exceptional cyclone swell on the east coast. "Best Ever!" was bandied about a lot.

Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Maz] #2914614
02/17/19 01:13 AM
02/17/19 01:13 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 937
Melbourne Australia
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Melbourne Australia
Vicco's famous points were epic last week, or so Instagram tells me. I wasn't there. Melbourne is at least 1 1/4 hours from the surf, but I can spend 1 and occasionally 2 days out of the office. So I chose to spend 4 days at a fairly remote location surfing junk semi-sheltered waves, living in a tent and coding from the camp kitchen. The campsite owners know me and don't mind me using the kitchen as an office. It was too big on the open ocean beachies. Now that I am surfing more can more out of the junk. Just one or two others out each surf. I put in 5 surfs on my Chilli Mini Bird and 2 on my Chilli Grom+. It should have been 3 on the longer Grom+ and 4 on the Mini Bird - was underequipped for one session.

I am skating less though, just once last week.

Back for another 3 days, but the open ocean beachies are fantastic this time. 3 sessions on the Grom+ in head height plus waves with ferocious rip currents.

Despite advancing in age - 58 next month, I am on my shortest boards ever. Instead I have to be smarter with pacing myself and bio-mechanical maintenance when out of the surf. Plus rest days of no surfing or skating, I need them to avoid muscle soreness. 2 rest days last week.

Ridiculously verbose description of my stubby Mini Bird and HPSB Plus here: https://forum.surfer.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2851450#Post2851450

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