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#2911574 - 02/10/19 03:26 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/23/10
Posts: 5269
Loc: PNW
Another day another cobblestone pseudo point break. Took a while to get it figured out but eventually found a corner that had some fun rights. Crowded but mostly just buoys on soft tops. It's after noon and windy now so esta tiempo para cerveza beer

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#2911929 - 02/11/19 01:18 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper]
jkb Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/21/05
Posts: 5549
Loc: Oceansuck
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


So true.

After the first kid, I was like "what's everyone talking about.....this isn't that hard."

After the second kid I surf a fraction of what I once used to. Whole new ballgame bawling
_________________________
Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.

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#2912000 - 02/11/19 02:24 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
ifallalot Offline
Duke status
**

Registered: 12/17/08
Posts: 53726
Loc: HB, CA
Tell me about it. Even though I have built in surf time with preschool and my days off I still don't get in the water all the times I should be able to.

Then weekends with sports and other family activities? F me

Onshore afternoons, poor tide windows, and flat spells don't help either.

On top of that, then there's the random other stuff like ear infections and middle aged man injuries
_________________________
No man's life, liberty, or property are safe while the legislature is in session

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#2912006 - 02/11/19 02:29 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ifallalot]
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
***

Registered: 09/26/05
Posts: 22380
Loc: Tower 13
Flex schedule and cool wife keeps me in the water. I got lucky.
_________________________
"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo

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#2912140 - 02/11/19 07:13 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
Aruka Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/23/10
Posts: 5269
Loc: PNW
Bigger today and less wind. Crowd was thick mid morning and then everyone bailed and it was just me and another person or two. Three sessions and I am torched. No amount of sunscreen seems capable of protecting my gringo skin. Duckdove into the reef but thankfully my board is fine and my knuckles will heal.

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#2912795 - 02/12/19 09:08 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Aruka]
ciscojaws Offline
Michael Peterson status
**

Registered: 07/28/08
Posts: 2075
Loc: Beast Coast
44 water. Waist to chest high, decent push. Caught a few, slow to get up. Thicker booties and gloves next time. Good to get wet, however now my hip flexor is completely locked up.
_________________________
We'll take the road that leads down to the waterside.

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#2913048 - 02/13/19 02:26 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
J_D_J Offline
Michael Peterson status
**

Registered: 03/01/14
Posts: 2440
Loc: The OC
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: ghostshaper
Originally Posted By: jkb
Originally Posted By: silentbutdeadly
Rode bonzer at my local this morning. Couple fun ones but knee wasn't having it. Made an appt for the doct. FML. I can't seem to catch a break.


Damn, sorry to hear SBD. Getting old sucks frown

I wouldn't know because I'm still a young buck banging everything that moves.

But from what I've heard, getting old sucks.


roflmao
Just don't have a second kid. It's all down hill (old) from there.

That's lame, sbd. Sorry to hear.


So true.

After the first kid, I was like "what's everyone talking about.....this isn't that hard."

After the second kid I surf a fraction of what I once used to. Whole new ballgame bawling


Yep. That second kid is the one that really limits water time.

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#2913082 - 02/13/19 03:14 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: J_D_J]
silentbutdeadly Offline
Duke status
***

Registered: 09/26/05
Posts: 22380
Loc: Tower 13
Thank god for my wife that's all I have to say.

Now I'm on injury two in a fairly short period. She would love for me to surf again. She knows how happy it makes me.
_________________________
"The size / dimensions don't matter. What does matter is that it's flammable. Because you should set it on fire and get a real surfboard" Witchipoo

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#2913160 - 02/13/19 05:13 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
jkb Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/21/05
Posts: 5549
Loc: Oceansuck
My wife is really cool as well. It's not her that keeps me from surfing.

It's the two kids (both of them younger than 4).

Colds, pre-school, babysitter schedules, kids birthday parties, work, home repairs, ect....

They're like miniature terrorists because they're constantly fvcking sh*t up and have an endless list of demands. toilet

coffee
_________________________
Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.

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#2913516 - 02/14/19 02:04 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
Mr Doof Offline
Duke status
***

Registered: 01/23/02
Posts: 17409
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Fun headhigh overhead weekend surf.

Glassy, peaky, very little wait between sets, and a crowd, but not as bad as it has been.

Friend #1 joined me but was soon lost due to the current and then he got stuck inside.

Best wave was a head-high ledging drop that went square as the wave hit the inside bar. Shoulder hopper pulled back when we saw me make the bottom turn. Thought that would snowball it, but nope, and a nice crouching highline with barrel was the payoff. Came out then cut back, bogged a little, then off to the races again, but by then it was waist high and just a speedy wall.

Took me another 15 minutes to get back out after that one though.

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#2913588 - 02/14/19 05:05 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
jkb Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 02/21/05
Posts: 5549
Loc: Oceansuck
Just finished surfing Tijuana Slough.

Water tasted kinda funny.
_________________________
Legal Disclaimer: jkb's posts are written by his Posting Agent, whose views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of jkb.

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#2913750 - 02/14/19 11:10 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
ghostshaper Offline
Miki Dora status
***

Registered: 01/22/05
Posts: 4430
Loc: 1134
Doheny was kind of gritty
_________________________
Organized competition is entirely peripheral to surfing qua surfing. People surf for love. - William Finnegan

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#2914060 - 02/15/19 12:56 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: ghostshaper]
Oceanslide Offline
Rabbitt Bartholomew status
**

Registered: 03/04/08
Posts: 8707
Loc: Oceanside, CA
A friend posted a picture of the San Luis Rey chocolate river flowing out to S. Jetty this morning. facelick

Got wet a couple times this week, once on the new Mandala Superchunk microlight with a few fun waves,
and once on the Manta in uber frustrating small closeouts. I'm so out of surf shape...this weather needs to stop. drowning
_________________________
"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding

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#2914154 - 02/15/19 02:15 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: jkb]
Maz Offline
Gerry Lopez status
*

Registered: 05/18/04
Posts: 983
Loc: Innzid
A week of exceptional cyclone swell on the east coast. "Best Ever!" was bandied about a lot.

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#2914614 - 02/16/19 08:13 PM Re: ***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal*** [Re: Maz]
Mr J Offline
Nep status
**

Registered: 08/18/03
Posts: 913
Loc: Melbourne Australia
Vicco's famous points were epic last week, or so Instagram tells me. I wasn't there. Melbourne is at least 1 1/4 hours from the surf, but I can spend 1 and occasionally 2 days out of the office. So I chose to spend 4 days at a fairly remote location surfing junk semi-sheltered waves, living in a tent and coding from the camp kitchen. The campsite owners know me and don't mind me using the kitchen as an office. It was too big on the open ocean beachies. Now that I am surfing more can more out of the junk. Just one or two others out each surf. I put in 5 surfs on my Chilli Mini Bird and 2 on my Chilli Grom+. It should have been 3 on the longer Grom+ and 4 on the Mini Bird - was underequipped for one session.

I am skating less though, just once last week.

Back for another 3 days, but the open ocean beachies are fantastic this time. 3 sessions on the Grom+ in head height plus waves with ferocious rip currents.

Despite advancing in age - 58 next month, I am on my shortest boards ever. Instead I have to be smarter with pacing myself and bio-mechanical maintenance when out of the surf. Plus rest days of no surfing or skating, I need them to avoid muscle soreness. 2 rest days last week.

Ridiculously verbose description of my stubby Mini Bird and HPSB Plus here: https://forum.surfer.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2851450#Post2851450

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